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Best way to unsolder the Nano?

Dennis Yancey All Messages By This Member #50113 Need device on the best way to unsolder the nano board. All help gratefully received. -- 72 and God bless KD4EPG
Jack Purdum #50114 I think most will tell you to snip the legs of the Nano, remove it, and carefully unsolder each pin from the board, exercising care not to overheat the board and lift the pads. Jack, W8TEE On Wednesday, May 23, 2018, 9:20:52 AM EDT, <Kd4epg@...> wrote: Need device on the best way to unsolder the nano board. All help gratefully received. -- 72 and God bless KD4EPG
Ralph Mowery All Messages By This Member #50118 I won't say it is the best, but what worked for me two times. Due to my fault while modifying the ubitx I had to replace the nano board. I used one of the hot air rework stations that can be bought off ebay for about $ 60 . It has a hand held wand that blows hot air out of about a 1/4 inch hole. You keep moving the wand from pin to pin? every second or less. That melts the solder and the whole board can be pulled out at once.? Then I used a solder sucker to clean out each hole that had solder left in it.? Just keep the heat down so as not to lift the traces off the board.? It does take some practice as how to do this.? Look on you tube for many examples of using it with the SMD. This is the one I used.? There are many sources for them on ebay.? Some from the US and some from China at many? different prices. You get a hot air gun and a soldering pencil that has some fine tips to replace the nano.? While I would not recommend this for heavy duty work, it holds up well enough for just a hobby.? If it quits, you are not out much money and can always get another. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 9:20 AM, <Kd4epg@...> wrote: Need device on the best way to unsolder the nano board. All help gratefully received. -- 72 and God bless KD4EPG
Sam Tedesco All Messages By This Member #50120 I use chipquick and wick toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, May 23, 2018, 6:45 AM Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@...> wrote: I won't say it is the best, but what worked for me two times. Due to my fault while modifying the ubitx I had to replace the nano board. I used one of the hot air rework stations that can be bought off ebay for about $ 60 . It has a hand held wand that blows hot air out of about a 1/4 inch hole. You keep moving the wand from pin to pin? every second or less. That melts the solder and the whole board can be pulled out at once.? Then I used a solder sucker to clean out each hole that had solder left in it.? Just keep the heat down so as not to lift the traces off the board.? It does take some practice as how to do this.? Look on you tube for many examples of using it with the SMD. This is the one I used.? There are many sources for them on ebay.? Some from the US and some from China at many? different prices. You get a hot air gun and a soldering pencil that has some fine tips to replace the nano.? While I would not recommend this for heavy duty work, it holds up well enough for just a hobby.? If it quits, you are not out much money and can always get another. On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 9:20 AM, <Kd4epg@...> wrote: Need device on the best way to unsolder the nano board. All help gratefully received. -- 72 and God bless KD4EPG
Bo Barry #50126 Clipping leads, heat a pad and either blow 'right hard'(southern saying) or poke with a tapered punch. Works great. I found a nice electric desoldering tool on eBay but they didn't say that 220VAC was needed. Returned it.
ajparent1/kb1gmx All Messages By This Member #50127 made a tool for my Ungar iron, about 1" long piece of Copper? with 1/4-20 thread to hook to the element. Apply to one, clear holes. Apply to other side repeat. The I use the hot air to loosen the remaining solder to pick it off. If it is broken I cut it off as there nothing to save. Of course if the chip is bad and your game... It is not that bad to put a new one down.?? Allison
Jerry Gaffke All Messages By This Member #50128 I had occasion to snip out out my Nano recently, wasn't as easy as I expected. See second paragraph of post? ?/g/BITX20/message/50027 A minor edit to that post: <? Then remove what's left on the black plastic from that header? >? Then remove what's left of the black plastic from that header? And while you're at it, you might consider socketing the Nano, placing it on the opposite side of the the Raduino as described in that post. I haven't noticed any downsides for doing this. I used flux and solderwick to get as much of the solder out of there as I could, then heated each pad with a soldering iron and blew the hole clean. I just used my breath, an air compressor and shop vice would aid the process.? Or a solder-sucking workstation. A fairly easy board to do this on as traces are thick and hard to damage, no internal ground planes. Jerry toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 06:30 am, Jack Purdum wrote: I think most will tell you to snip the legs of the Nano, remove it, and carefully unsolder each pin from the board, exercising care not to overheat the board and lift the pads. ? Jack, W8TEE ? . . . ? On Wednesday, May 23, 2018, 9:20:52 AM EDT, <Kd4epg@...> wrote: ? ? Need device on the best way to unsolder the nano board. All help gratefully received. -- 72 and God bless KD4EPG
Sam Tedesco All Messages By This Member #50137 Way too expensive for this application; but, awesome stuff. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 7:23 AM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote: I had occasion to snip out out my Nano recently, wasn't as easy as I expected. See second paragraph of post? ?/g/BITX20/message/50027 A minor edit to that post: <? Then remove what's left on the black plastic from that header? >? Then remove what's left of the black plastic from that header? And while you're at it, you might consider socketing the Nano, placing it on the opposite side of the the Raduino as described in that post. I haven't noticed any downsides for doing this. I used flux and solderwick to get as much of the solder out of there as I could, then heated each pad with a soldering iron and blew the hole clean. I just used my breath, an air compressor and shop vice would aid the process.? Or a solder-sucking workstation. A fairly easy board to do this on as traces are thick and hard to damage, no internal ground planes. Jerry On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 06:30 am, Jack Purdum wrote: I think most will tell you to snip the legs of the Nano, remove it, and carefully unsolder each pin from the board, exercising care not to overheat the board and lift the pads. ? Jack, W8TEE ? . . . ? On Wednesday, May 23, 2018, 9:20:52 AM EDT, <Kd4epg@...> wrote: ? ? Need device on the best way to unsolder the nano board. All help gratefully received. -- 72 and God bless KD4EPG
Doug W All Messages By This Member #50140 Fortunately I haven't had to remove the nano (knock, knock) but for cleaning out through holes I have had great luck with just a cheap solder sucker like this... The key to using it to clear holes, and I will never admit how long it took me to realize this, is to hold the sucker on one side of the board with enough pressure to get it solidly touching the board and the iron on the other side.? I usually do two heats.? First to remove the lead or pin from the offending component then another for the solder sucker to do its work.? Fun fact: if you don't make sure the top is locked down in the slot the plunger will fly higher than you think it will. --
David Nelson All Messages By This Member #50143 I had to replace my nano twice. Miswired, my fault. I got one of the cheap irons off ebay with solder sucker built in. Worked great. Beware, they a 110V or a 220V. Be sure to order the 110V version. Best $15 I have spent in a long time. I use it a lot.? kc2ipx? Dave toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 11:25 AM, Doug W <dougwilner@...> wrote: Fortunately I haven't had to remove the nano (knock, knock) but for cleaning out through holes I have had great luck with just a cheap solder sucker like this... The key to using it to clear holes, and I will never admit how long it took me to realize this, is to hold the sucker on one side of the board with enough pressure to get it solidly touching the board and the iron on the other side.? I usually do two heats.? First to remove the lead or pin from the offending component then another for the solder sucker to do its work.? Fun fact: if you don't make sure the top is locked down in the slot the plunger will fly higher than you think it will. --
Jerry Gaffke All Messages By This Member #50147 One thing about solder, it's heavy.? Often made with lead. I generally have better luck asking molten solder to go down than up. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 08:35 am, David Nelson wrote: The key to using it to clear holes, and I will never admit how long it took me to realize this, is to hold the sucker on one side of the board with enough pressure to get it solidly touching the board and the iron on the other side.? I usually do two heats.? First to remove the lead or pin from the offending component then another for the solder sucker to do its work.? Fun fact: if you don't make sure the top is locked down in the slot the plunger will fly higher than you think it will. --
Bo Barry #50173 Yep! Heat it, blow hard, punch hole with a tapered punch, moving it so it doesn't get stuck.

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