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Bad Relay #ubitx


 

In case anyone sees a similar issue, I took me a bit of head scratching to figure out what it was.? Add to that the random nature of it, more than one cup of coffee was consumed.

Either K1 or K3 has bad/dirty contacts on it making the switch from XMT to RCV..? Keying the mic or key transmit to get the relays to cycle (sometimes takes more than once), fixes the problem by getting the contacts to close fully.? Unfortunately I'll have to wait until it misbehaves again, and then manually force each relay to cycle independently to figure out which needs replacement.

Not looking forward to desoldering...

(pic attached)


Jon Titus, KZ1G
 

Relay K1 caused problems here, so I removed it and replaced it with a DPDT switch.? I also added LEDs to the TX and RX signals to indicate the transceiver mode.? I like this arrangement better than a PTT pushbutton or CW-key activation.

Several people have commented on device-unsoldering practices.? I suggest you use solder wick or a solder sucker to remove most of the solder.? A small culinary blowtorch (yes, really) can deliver enough heat to melt the remaining solder so you can extract the relay.? To protect nearby solder connections, get some gauze bandage pads and wet them with distilled water.? Place the damp pads around the relay contacts on the solder side of the board and use the torch to apply just enough heat to melt the solder.? The relay should pull right out.
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Jon Titus, KZ1G
Herriman, UT USA


Jon Titus, KZ1G
 

The K1 relay caused dismay here, so I replaced it with a small DPDT switch.? LEDs on the TX and RX lines provide a visual indication of transceiver mode.? I like this arrangement better than a PTT pushbutton or operation via the CW key closure.
--
Jon Titus, KZ1G
Herriman, UT USA