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So, I assembled my Bitx40 kit, at this point it was just wires laying on my bench. I wired up the function button, tested, everything working great.
Accidentally touched the ground from function button (orange wire) to 12v while moving stuff around.
Now my LCD only shows squares, and I can not tune the radio.
So, I am a newbie here, What happens when 12v is applied to the function button ground?
Am I screwed?
Justin
KN4FAW
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You might have damaged the processor by the 12V
being put on the pin.
Take Raduio out and try running it on just the
USB connector with nothing connected.
Try programming it with the "Blink" program.? See
if it programs.
Mike, WA6ISP
On 10/14/2017 1:52 PM, Justin Maynard
KN4FAW wrote:
So, I assembled my
Bitx40 kit, at this point it was just wires laying on my bench. I
wired up the function button, tested, everything working great.
Accidentally touched the ground from function button (orange wire)
to 12v while moving stuff around.
Now my LCD only shows squares, and I can not tune the radio.
So, I am a newbie here, What happens when 12v is applied to the
function button ground?
Am I screwed?
Justin
KN4FAW
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
Yup. ?But not just too badly.
Nothing about the Bitx40 is very expensive.
Compared to pretty much any other SSB transceiver.
The function button is tied directly to a 5v max IO pin on the ATmega382p processor on the Raduino.
You likely blew out the processor chip.
Easiest thing is to buy a new Raduino, $25 from hfsigs.com
Or you could buy a new Arduino Nano for under $5 off the web, but the Nano is
soldered down to the Raduino board with 30 pins. ?
Wouldn't be trivial to swap out, but possible.
Possible that the short damaged something beyond the ATmega328p
(such as the si5351 on the Raduino) but I tend to doubt that.
I think your main Bitx40 board is fine.
You might consider using with the analog VFO on the Bitx40 while waiting for the postman.
Would require adding L5 and wiring the 10k tuning pot to the analog VFO.
It is kind of unstable though, will drift some during a QSO.
Jerry, KE7ER
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On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 01:52 pm, Justin Maynard KN4FAW wrote:
Am I screwed?
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I believe that I must have messed up the processor. When uploading Blink or any Sketch I get the error: Arduino: 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Nano, ATmega328P"
Sketch uses 928 bytes (3%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 9 bytes (0%) of dynamic memory, leaving 2039 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xba
Problem uploading to board.? See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.
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It is a real pain that al the sensitive input pins of none the
Arduino boards are not protected by some "simple" components: a
series resistor say 1 k Ohm and an double diode (e.g. BAV99) to
ground and Vcc.
In case Vcc is not connected a say 5.1 or 5.6 V? zener diode from
Vcc to ground will also limit? the maximum input? voltages.
And for RF introduced to digital input pins? Well a LC pi filter
can do much, or better an RC filter?
the morse key and PTT contacts should be decoupled by
optocouplers---
And at least: why not put the Arduino on a socket in order to
exchange it in case of damage??
Henning
DK5LV
Am 14.10.2017 um 23:10 schrieb Jerry
Gaffke via Groups.Io:
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Show quoted text
Yup. ?But not just
too badly.
Nothing about the Bitx40 is very expensive.
Compared to pretty much any other SSB transceiver.
The function button is tied directly to a 5v max IO pin on the
ATmega382p processor on the Raduino.
You likely blew out the processor chip.
Easiest thing is to buy a new Raduino, $25 from hfsigs.com
Or you could buy a new Arduino Nano for under $5 off the web, but
the Nano is
soldered down to the Raduino board with 30 pins. ?
Wouldn't be trivial to swap out, but possible.
Possible that the short damaged something beyond the ATmega328p
(such as the si5351 on the Raduino) but I tend to doubt that.
I think your main Bitx40 board is fine.
You might consider using with the analog VFO on the Bitx40 while
waiting for the postman.
Would require adding L5 and wiring the 10k tuning pot to the
analog VFO.
It is kind of unstable though, will drift some during a QSO.
Jerry, KE7ER
On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 01:52 pm, Justin Maynard KN4FAW wrote:
Am I screwed?
|
Thank you for the advice Jerry,
Yeah it was an easy newbie mistake for me to make, I should have been more careful. I will order a new raduino and try out the analog VFO while waiting.
I am loving this radio, as a new ham I am learning a ton thanks to the this group and toying with this radio. I am hooked on homebrew and want to build more projects.
Justin, KN4FAW
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If you have "limited" soldering skill level and don't know how to use desoldering tool. -? replacing arduino IS trivial if you buy Arduino with UNSOLDERED pins.
Just destroy an old arduino board with pliers and desolder from existing pins - without desoldering from main raduino board.
Then clean pins and resolder new arduino.
?
MAc
sp9mrn
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Justin et al,
I've just replaced my Raduino for much the same reason, and here's a wee tip: Recover the 8-pin connector, and use it with the new 8-way plug for the Digital lines (and CLK0) labelled "OSCILLATORS" (???) on the hfsigs circuit page.
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A series 1k resistor would go a long ways in protecing the ATmega328p pins.
Shorting 12v to such a wire would put (12-5)/1k = 7ma through the protection diodes at the ATmega328p IO cells,
and they should be able to handle that just fine. ?Well worth an extra nickle.
And worth another nickle to isolate the IRF510 from the heatsink.
Optocouplers? ?They'd have to raise the price. ?
If the si5351 were on the main Bitx40 board, the processor section would be just
a processor plus display plus switches and tuning knob. ?
Perhaps use an i2c or spi display to reduce wiring, but must keep noise out of the si5351.
All of that could be wired straight into a Nano. ?Or a Teensy or RasberryPi or whatever.?
Back to no protection resistors (unless they are inline with the wires), though now trivial
to swap processors.
Jerry
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On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 02:20 pm, Henning Weddig wrote:
It is a real pain that al the sensitive input pins of none the Arduino boards are not protected by some "simple" components: a series resistor say 1 k Ohm and an double diode (e.g. BAV99) to ground and Vcc.
?
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Don’t listen to all the analog VFO haters here, and their “stable frequencies” and their “frequency read outs...” ?*rolls eyes*
;-)
The analog VFO is a LOT of fun to use. They are right that it is drifty as all get-out; you need to stay on top of it or you’ll lose the QSO. And a 10-turn pot is a MUST, or just touching the tuning knob will kick you over by a few kHz.?
So, yes, I GUESS it’s a bit of a challenge... but what is life without a challenge every so often! Keep that brain working a little bit more.?
Try the analog VFO. It’s good for you.
This message brought to you by KR6ZY who bought his first BitX before the Raduino was a thing and still loves that radio... :-D
-Mark
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On Oct 14, 2017, at 2:24 PM, Justin Maynard KN4FAW < justin.maynard27@...> wrote: Thank you for the advice Jerry,
Yeah it was an easy newbie mistake for me to make, I should have been more careful. I will order a new raduino and try out the analog VFO while waiting.
I am loving this radio, as a new ham I am learning a ton thanks to the this group and toying with this radio. I am hooked on homebrew and want to build more projects.
Justin, KN4FAW
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Hi Justin,
I had the same problem.?
The software wouldn't read the Nano board and said not responding. So I went ahead and bought a new Arduino Nano board. Then I downloaded the software for the 1.21 version ( that was the latest then), and installed it on the new Nano to check if I got a response from the board.?
When it was successfully written on the new Nano, I replaced the old one on the raduino.
This is a tricky part. I tried desoldering and removing the old Nano. But as there were multiple connections, this did not work. So I eventually destroyed my old Nano board by using a cutter (very carefully) and separated a few legs and removed them all.?
After this, I removed the solder from all the holes using desoldering wick and inserted two multi connectors on the two rows and soldered them.?
Then, I placed the new Nano board and just soldered it in place. That was good to go.!
It's back in business now. Hope this helps.
73, Nuwais.? VU2XQ.
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You are not alone! I had my bitx40 in pieces on my benchtop and wired the raduino using the orange I/O wire instead of the orange +12v wire...powered on....got nothing on my LCD...turned off...checked wiring...turned on a second time...still nothing...turned off...THEN I saw what I did wrong....it wasn't until I had reflashed the v2 software the I finally figured out why my unit keeps going to the Settings menu....it thinks that I am holding the function button down upon power up! With the button uninstalled I check the power of the orange A3 wire and am getting 0v!! :-( So I'm going to try and remap a different pin for the Function button...if that does not work or if I find that I actually damaged more than the I/O pin...then I'll go the "New Arduino Nano" route! Best of luck to all who are experimenting with the bitx's out there!!
73
Ric
KN4FTT
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In v2, pin A2 is not used anymore. You could remap the function button to
A2 instead of A3.
at line 233:
#define FBUTTON (A3)
change to:
#define FBUTTON (A2)
73 Allard PE1NWL
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Show quoted text
On Fri, February 2, 2018 17:03, Richard Sanders wrote: You are not alone! I had my bitx40 in pieces on my benchtop and wired the
raduino using the orange I/O wire instead of the orange +12v
wire...powered on....got nothing on my LCD...turned off...checked
wiring...turned on a second time...still nothing...turned off...THEN I saw
what I did wrong....it wasn't until I had reflashed the v2 software the I
finally figured out why my unit keeps going to the Settings menu....it
thinks that I am holding the function button down upon power up! With the
button uninstalled I check the power of the orange A3 wire and am getting
0v!! :-( So I'm going to try and remap a different pin for the Function
button...if that does not work or if I find that I actually damaged more
than the I/O pin...then I'll go the "New Arduino Nano" route! Best of luck
to all who are experimenting with the bitx's out there!!
73
Ric
KN4FTT
|
I also hooked the orange wires up wrong and it completly blew my nano so I had to replace my nano. Not a fun job. Lots of luck.? ?Dave? kc2ipx
On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 11:17 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote: In v2, pin A2 is not used anymore. You could remap the function button to
A2 instead of A3.
at line 233:
#define FBUTTON (A3)
change to:
#define FBUTTON (A2)
73 Allard PE1NWL
On Fri, February 2, 2018 17:03, Richard Sanders wrote:
> You are not alone! I had my bitx40 in pieces on my benchtop and wired the
> raduino using the orange I/O wire instead of the orange +12v
> wire...powered on....got nothing on my LCD...turned off...checked
> wiring...turned on a second time...still nothing...turned off...THEN I saw
> what I did wrong....it wasn't until I had reflashed the v2 software the I
> finally figured out why my unit keeps going to the Settings menu....it
> thinks that I am holding the function button down upon power up! With the
> button uninstalled I check the power of the orange A3 wire and am getting
> 0v!! :-( So I'm going to try and remap a different pin for the Function
> button...if that does not work or if I find that I actually damaged more
> than the I/O pin...then I'll go the "New Arduino Nano" route! Best of luck
> to all who are experimenting with the bitx's out there!!
>
> 73
> Ric
> KN4FTT
>
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I would recommend in
building these radios that you change All ground wires to
Black and All Power (5 or 12V) to Red.
Reserve these colors
for just 2 purposes.
You can use the wires
you remove for additions.? Leave the molex pin on them.? I had
a lot of spare Brown ones.
I can't stand an
Orange wire being B+ (the term for us old Valve guys)!? 26 Ga.
stranded works great.?? I got a bunch of colors at All
Electronics.? Molex pins are at Tayda and Mouser.
You don't have to be
in such a hurry and blow things up.? Check your wiring several
times.? You could even make a connector chart with J numbers
and pin numbers with wire color.?? Match it up to what is on
hfsignals.?? It may mean you catch a mistake and save a lot of
trouble shooting?
73'3
Mike,? WA6ISP
On 2/2/2018 8:03 AM, Richard Sanders
wrote:
You are not alone!
I had my bitx40 in pieces on my benchtop and wired the raduino
using the orange I/O wire instead of the orange +12v
wire...powered on....got nothing on my LCD...turned off...checked
wiring...turned on a second time...still nothing...turned
off...THEN I saw what I did wrong....it wasn't until I had
reflashed the v2 software the I finally figured out why my unit
keeps going to the Settings menu....it thinks that I am holding
the function button down upon power up! With the button
uninstalled I check the power of the orange A3 wire and am getting
0v!! :-( So I'm going to try and remap a different pin for the
Function button...if that does not work or if I find that I
actually damaged more than the I/O pin...then I'll go the "New
Arduino Nano" route! Best of luck to all who are experimenting
with the bitx's out there!!
73
Ric
KN4FTT
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
The 8 pin and the 5 pin both have an orange wire. Easy to get confused.? Dave
On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 11:40 AM, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:
I would recommend in
building these radios that you change All ground wires to
Black and All Power (5 or 12V) to Red.
Reserve these colors
for just 2 purposes.
You can use the wires
you remove for additions.? Leave the molex pin on them.? I had
a lot of spare Brown ones.
I can't stand an
Orange wire being B+ (the term for us old Valve guys)!? 26 Ga.
stranded works great.?? I got a bunch of colors at All
Electronics.? Molex pins are at Tayda and Mouser.
You don't have to be
in such a hurry and blow things up.? Check your wiring several
times.? You could even make a connector chart with J numbers
and pin numbers with wire color.?? Match it up to what is on
hfsignals.?? It may mean you catch a mistake and save a lot of
trouble shooting?
73'3
Mike,? WA6ISP
On 2/2/2018 8:03 AM, Richard Sanders
wrote:
You are not alone!
I had my bitx40 in pieces on my benchtop and wired the raduino
using the orange I/O wire instead of the orange +12v
wire...powered on....got nothing on my LCD...turned off...checked
wiring...turned on a second time...still nothing...turned
off...THEN I saw what I did wrong....it wasn't until I had
reflashed the v2 software the I finally figured out why my unit
keeps going to the Settings menu....it thinks that I am holding
the function button down upon power up! With the button
uninstalled I check the power of the orange A3 wire and am getting
0v!! :-( So I'm going to try and remap a different pin for the
Function button...if that does not work or if I find that I
actually damaged more than the I/O pin...then I'll go the "New
Arduino Nano" route! Best of luck to all who are experimenting
with the bitx's out there!!
73
Ric
KN4FTT
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
I was thinking the same thing, Allard!!
Thanks for including the code for those who might need it! :-D
73
RIc
KN4FTT
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Smitty, N6MTS
Allard PE1NWL
David Nelson
AA7GW Gary