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Hi all
I have made up and installed version5, now all I hear is the relay clicks.
Photo of board attached.
Ted
ZL1BQA
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Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice construction...tnx n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:22 AM, Ted Doell <ted@...> wrote: Hi all
I have made up and installed version5, now all I hear is the relay clicks.
Photo of board attached.
Ted
ZL1BQA
|
This is the version I used. I see when I have another look it is
version3 anyway it seems to work for me. circuit as below.
I added at the junction of the 1k resistor and the emiter of the
2N3906 a 22mf Tantalm and a 103 ceramic capacitor and feed the 12v
via a 100ohm resistor.
Ted
On 18/08/17 6:37 PM, Rajendran
Mayilsamy wrote:
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Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice
construction...tnx n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
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Hi Ted and all ... back from having my tea ... that V3 circuit is my choice, *BUT* connect to pin 3 (across the input instead of pin 7. Pops all gone, PTT press *and* release!
73 ...
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p.s. no extra bits really needed for my unit, transistors just what was to hand (scrapped from a PC PSU). If Ted has put in extra caps it would likely be to keep it muting a few milliseconds after PTT release - right, Ted?
73 ...
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Could you post a drawing please?
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On Aug 18, 2017, at 03:08, Ted Doell < ted@...> wrote:
This is the version I used. I see when I have another look it is
version3 anyway it seems to work for me. circuit as below.
<nkpnlcmibkchkphb.png>
I added at the junction of the 1k resistor and the emiter of the
2N3906 a 22mf Tantalm and a 103 ceramic capacitor and feed the 12v
via a 100ohm resistor.
Ted
On 18/08/17 6:37 PM, Rajendran
Mayilsamy wrote:
Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice
construction...tnx n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
|
Here is my solution to the PTT Mute and the addition of a Linear
Amp keying circuit.
I just dead bugged the H11AV1 Opto coupler on top of the LM386
to make the connections as short as possible.
Any Opto coupler with an NPN transistor should work, I just had
a slug of these GE H11Av1’s in my junk box.
Good Luck…see you on 40. KC5RT Fred.
?
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From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ted Doell
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 2:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Pop mute
?
This is the version I used. I see when I have another look it is version3
anyway it seems to work for me. circuit as below.
I added at the junction of the 1k resistor and the emiter of the 2N3906 a
22mf Tantalm and a 103 ceramic capacitor and feed the 12v via a 100ohm
resistor.
Ted
?
On 18/08/17 6:37 PM, Rajendran Mayilsamy wrote:
Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice construction...tnx
n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
?
On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:22 AM, Ted Doell <ted@...> wrote:
Hi all
I have made up and installed version5, now all I hear is the relay clicks.
Photo of board attached.
Ted
ZL1BQA
?
?
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Do
you
need
a
word
per
line
to
explain
things?
On a less sarcastic note, do you have the ability to print out a picture? If so, there's a perfectly clear one in post#31512 from my compatriot Ted. It's from Giancarlo, who used his 'nut' to design it. The only difference I made was to take the connection from pin 7 and put it to pin 3. This is the 'audio in' to U1 in Farhan's original circuit. Make connections there as close and direct as possible - some have experience instability otherwise. Fred's solution in post#31517 is far more elegant and a whole bunch easier - *if* you find or can procure an opto-coupler. I'm lucky - The PC PSU I scrapped that provided the bits for my implementation of Ted's circuit also provided one! :) I'm not at home 'til Monday, so will be trying that, though I'd venture pin 3 rather than pin 1 - pin 2 is adjacent and to earth. Looks like you can put as many optos as you like in series there to drive anything else you want to ... like maybe antenna switching if you've done multi-band mods? Good t'inkin' Fred! (Oirish accent) :)
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p.s. most of the development of this was done in the thread of post#30470, and seemed fixated on tying either pin 7 or pin 8 to 0V or +12. I put my rationale for taking pin 3 to 0V in there - why on earth are people persisting with anything else?
73 de ZL2DEX ...
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John, AD0RW proposed exactly that (grounding PIN 3) back on April 30 with his?“Simple Audio Muting Circuit” ?(message # 25870) that grounds PIN 3 of the LM386, triggered by PTT and holds it after PTT release? using a 0.1 uF Cap and a 430K resistor. ?This is what I am currently using and it works quite well except I do need to tweak the resistance so that the mute holds a little longer? as I am still getting a bit of POP on the TX -> RX transition.
Michael VE3WMB ??
>From:?Dexter N Muir>Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 16:41:53 EDT?>p.s. most of the development of this was done in the thread of post#30470, and seemed fixated on tying either pin 7 or pin 8 to 0V or +12. I put my rationale for taking pin 3 to 0V in there - why on earth are people persisting with >anything else?
>73 de ZL2DEX ...
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Thanks for the background, Michael. I came in later having just gotten my kit active and encountering the need.
73 ...
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Another p.s.: John's implementation allows for the CW sidetone - excellent! I don't operate CW so I don't need that, but should I get bitten by the 'bug' I most likely will put that in.
73 agn de ZL2DEX (I use the CW abbreviations so I know at least some of the 'jargon') :)
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For those who have asked, circuit with my additions attached.
Ted
On 18/08/17 11:53 PM, 1practical.man
wrote:
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Show quoted text
Could you post a drawing please?
On Aug 18, 2017, at 03:08, Ted Doell < ted@...>
wrote:
This is the version I used. I see when I have another look
it is version3 anyway it seems to work for me. circuit as
below.
<nkpnlcmibkchkphb.png>
I added at the junction of the 1k resistor and the emiter
of the 2N3906 a 22mf Tantalm and a 103 ceramic capacitor and
feed the 12v via a 100ohm resistor.
Ted
On 18/08/17 6:37 PM, Rajendran
Mayilsamy wrote:
Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly
nice construction...tnx n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
|
Hi Ted
I don't know why you found the need to filter that supply. I derived mine from the V+ end of R101 (adjacent to the DDS connector) and had no troubles. Mind you, I had also 'super-cap' filtered the pre-amp's supply to kill the 'tuning clicks'. I think I had quoted my other change as from pin 7 to pin 3 - try the NPN's Collector to pin 3 rather than pin 1 - and while trying that it might be worthwhile trying to allow for CW sidetone - NPN collector to M1 (scrape a bit of resist off the track from C115?), 1k res M1 to M2 (easy enough under the board at the relay?), sidetone via resistor to M2 or U1.3. As in the Cheezels ad, "gotta be worth a crack, Nigel"?
73, Dex
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Just good practice, I have also done this to the Raduino power
feed.
Ted
On 19/08/17 11:56 AM, Dexter N Muir
wrote:
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Hi Ted
I don't know why you found the need to filter that supply. I
derived mine from the V+ end of R101 (adjacent to the DDS
connector) and had no troubles. Mind you, I had also 'super-cap'
filtered the pre-amp's supply to kill the 'tuning clicks'. I
think I had quoted my other change as from pin 7 to pin 3 - try
the NPN's Collector to pin 3 rather than pin 1 - and while
trying that it might be worthwhile trying to allow for CW
sidetone - NPN collector to M1 (scrape a bit of resist off the
track from C115?), 1k res M1 to M2 (easy enough under the board
at the relay?), sidetone via resistor to M2 or U1.3. As in the
Cheezels ad, "gotta be worth a crack, Nigel"?
73, Dex
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