|
I would appreciate assistance with the 40 please.
After triple checking connections, I fired up. The display was blocks which adjusted with the pot on the Rad board. It was drawing 140ma on idle initially, but seems to have dropped back to 70ma after having been on for a while.
There is a soft hiss on the speaker, but no signals on receive. Put the sig gen near on 7.1, but nothing when tuning, although there was a slight noise around 40 megs when I tuned around with the sig gen. Makes a clack clack noise while tuning which I suppose is the Rad incrementing. Bizarrely, moving the tuning control near full deflection either way starts the freq counter counting on at about 5 KC’s/sec, such that it will count up to 7.5 and back to 6.9 the other way. Tuning control is very sensitive.
Any suggestions of tests would be appreciated. Wondering if I’m just unlucky with a duff DDS. I have a scope and sig gen.
Roger, M0TJK
|
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning. Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
|
Thank you Vic. ?The antenna is a 30’ vertical connected with RG213. ?I have tried several aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not. ?The display does indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk through. ?I should have waited before buying the metal case which ended up costing more that the boards! ?There are few connections necessary to get a signal that I’m thinking that the DDS board is faulty.?
Picture of unit below.
Roger
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io < vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning. Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
|
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30?�? vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I?�?m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71753/)
?
|
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Sep 2019, at 2:43 pm, Raj vu2zap < rajendrakumargg@...> wrote:
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30’ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I’m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71756/)
?
|
Use your signal generator to inject the appropriate frequency into the mixer instead of the DDS and see whether you receive a signal. If you receive any signal that eliminates a faulty DDS.
After that start checking from the AF amplifier working your way to the antenna. Regards Lawrence
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
Roger
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30’ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I’m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71757/)
?
|
Hi Roger,
Use your scope to determine if the DDS is producing a signal at the DDS connection on the DDS board. Also check to make sure there is a signal at the DDS connection on the main board. I remember that the colors didn't exactly match up and were a bit confusing at first.
Paul
KL7FLR
|
P.s. there are a lot of wires bunched up and crossing over the pcb As they presently are you will get a lot of RF pick up and feedback to the components and earlier stages on the pcb.??
They should be run on the bottom and the front/back panel as near to the metal as possible and clamped so as not to move. Also not running/crossing under the pcb but near the edges.
Regards Lawrence
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 5:33 PM Lawrence Galea via Groups.Io <9h1avlaw= [email protected]> wrote: Use your signal generator to inject the appropriate frequency into the mixer instead of the DDS and see whether you receive a signal. If you receive any signal that eliminates a faulty DDS.
After that start checking from the AF amplifier working your way to the antenna. Regards Lawrence
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
Roger
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30’ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I’m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71769/)
?
|
Thank you Lawrence and noted. ?I don’t think it will resolve the issue of no signals at all which is what was troubling me the most.
Regards?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Sep 2019, at 8:56 pm, Lawrence Galea < 9h1avlaw@...> wrote: P.s. there are a lot of wires bunched up and crossing over the pcb As they presently are you will get a lot of RF pick up and feedback to the components and earlier stages on the pcb.??
They should be run on the bottom and the front/back panel as near to the metal as possible and clamped so as not to move. Also not running/crossing under the pcb but near the edges.
Regards Lawrence On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 5:33 PM Lawrence Galea via Groups.Io <9h1avlaw= [email protected]> wrote: Use your signal generator to inject the appropriate frequency into the mixer instead of the DDS and see whether you receive a signal. If you receive any signal that eliminates a faulty DDS.
After that start checking from the AF amplifier working your way to the antenna. Regards Lawrence
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
Roger
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30’ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I’m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71772/)
?
|
Ashar has a nice video on troubleshooting the BitX40 receiver that might prove useful. See it at:
I am wondering if there might be a bad solder connection on one of the toroids, as that has been reported before. You might take a close look.
Also, you may get better results shortening all the wiring. It is a bit hard to follow with the several bundles of loose wire.
=Vic=
|
This should be very useful for you. It first talks about mods that have or have not been done to yourUBiTX Then he goes into trouble shooting
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 9, 2019, at 4:11 AM, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io < vhklein@...> wrote:
Ashar has a nice video on troubleshooting the BitX40 receiver that might prove useful. See it at:
|
Thanks Vic. ?The wiring is correct, but I was intending to sort the bird's nest after checking the unit was working okay. ?After the initial issue with the outdated instructions on how to connect the Raduino (as I didn’t want to put 12v in the wrong place), I had fully expected the unit to work, based on the advertised text that said that they tested the units as working before they were despatched. ?If I had known that it was a might or might not work I would not have purchased.
I don’t have much time at the moment but I’ll watch the video.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 9 Sep 2019, at 9:11 am, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io < vhklein@...> wrote:
Ashar has a nice video on troubleshooting the BitX40 receiver that might prove useful. See it at:
I am wondering if there might be a bad solder connection on one of the toroids, as that has been reported before. You might take a close look.
Also, you may get better results shortening all the wiring. It is a bit hard to follow with the several bundles of loose wire.
=Vic=
|
As I recall, there have been reports of some of the small toroid leads being broken from rough shipping...seems like those reports were from the UK, too. These are great little radios and I have enjoyed mine a lot. I even had one running mobile check in to my session on the ECARS 40m net recently, from almost 700 miles away.
=Vic=
|
Hi Vic
The video has helped a lot as I only needed the first minute to work out that the VFO is never going to oscillate as C93 and L4 are missing, per the picture below! ?I put the scope on Q7 and unsurprisingly there is no signal. ?They say they test all the boards before despatch, but this one can’t have been tested. ?Going to refer it back to HFS for either a replacement board or a refund.
Roger
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks Vic. ?The wiring is correct, but I was intending to sort the bird's nest after checking the unit was working okay. ?After the initial issue with the outdated instructions on how to connect the Raduino (as I didn’t want to put 12v in the wrong place), I had fully expected the unit to work, based on the advertised text that said that they tested the units as working before they were despatched. ?If I had known that it was a might or might not work I would not have purchased.
I don’t have much time at the moment but I’ll watch the video.
Roger On 9 Sep 2019, at 9:11 am, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io < vhklein@...> wrote:
Ashar has a nice video on troubleshooting the BitX40 receiver that might prove useful. See it at:
I am wondering if there might be a bad solder connection on one of the toroids, as that has been reported before. You might take a close look.
Also, you may get better results shortening all the wiring. It is a bit hard to follow with the several bundles of loose wire.
=Vic=
|
As raduino has taken over vfo , perhaps they stopped mounting those 2 parts .
Hi Vic
The video has helped a lot as I only needed the first minute to work out that the VFO is never going to oscillate as C93 and L4 are missing, per the picture below!? I put the scope on Q7 and unsurprisingly there is no signal.? They say they test all the boards before despatch, but this one can’t have been tested.? Going to refer it back to HFS for either a replacement board or a refund.
Roger
Thanks Vic.? The wiring is correct, but I was intending to sort the bird's nest after checking the unit was working okay.? After the initial issue with the outdated instructions on how to connect the Raduino (as I didn’t want to put 12v in the wrong place), I had fully expected the unit to work, based on the advertised text that said that they tested the units as working before they were despatched.? If I had known that it was a might or might not work I would not have purchased.
I don’t have much time at the moment but I’ll watch the video.
Roger On 9 Sep 2019, at 9:11 am, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io < vhklein@...> wrote:
Ashar has a nice video on troubleshooting the BitX40 receiver that might prove useful. See it at:
I am wondering if there might be a bad solder connection on one of the toroids, as that has been reported before. You might take a close look.
Also, you may get better results shortening all the wiring. It is a bit hard to follow with the several bundles of loose wire.
=Vic=
|
Roger,
L4 has not been stuffed on the Bitx40 since late 2016, when it first started shipping with the Raduino
to replace the rather unstable analog VFO.? (If L4 were stuffed, the analog oscillator would be
operating in addition to the VFO coming in from the Raduino, which would be a bad thing.)
Far as I know, C93 has never been stuffed, and certainly has no utility if using the Raduino VFO.
At $59 for a kit SSB transceiver, most of us are happy to do a bit of debug if necessary,
we might even learn something.? I'm confident that all Bitx40 boards go out after verifying
that they work, but there are occasional cold solder joints, and broken wires on inductors
due to rough handling in transport.? International post is tough on packages.? Some arrive
with tire tracks over the package, there are videos of workers walking over the top of?
packages to push more into voids in the container.
If you can't deal with some debug, you may not be a part of the intended audience for
most any electronics kit out there.??
Good luck seeking refund or replacement, I generally would not expect that on?
a low end kit such as this.? You are doing a significant part of the build, hfsignals
could not sell them at $59 if all the Bitx40's getting built had to work perfectly well
for builders of all possible skill levels.? But give it a try if so inclined.
Their email address is? ?"hfsignals at gmail dot com".
A better option might be to post it for sale in this forum.
I would like to see hfsignals provide schematics that exactly match what is shipped.
And assembly instructions that show the newer uBitx style Raduino connector.
Glib statements about how easy it is to make it work can discourage
those for whom this is not the case.
But at this price, most of us are quite happy with the Bitx40.
Jerry, KE7ER
|
Jerry
You are entitled to your opinion, I just don’t happen to agree with you. ?The video online reference that I was sent refers to those components being present. ?
There are minimal connections to hook up the board, but I was unable to sort the connections to the Raduino from the details supplied. ?It was only with the excellent assistance of this forum that I managed to get it connected.
If you market a device as tested and working, it should arrive in that condition. ?Mine arrived intact. ?If it was likely to arrive damaged, I would rather pay another 10 bucks for better packing. ?But that is my opinion.
Finally, irrespective of price, if you are likely to need debugging expertise, then the seller should say so on their web site. ?In which case, I would not have bought it. ?As it is, I have paid the same money for a case which I now can’t use.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10 Sep 2019, at 6:04 pm, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io < jgaffke@...> wrote:
Roger,
L4 has not been stuffed on the Bitx40 since late 2016, when it first started shipping with the Raduino
to replace the rather unstable analog VFO.? (If L4 were stuffed, the analog oscillator would be
operating in addition to the VFO coming in from the Raduino, which would be a bad thing.)
Far as I know, C93 has never been stuffed, and certainly has no utility if using the Raduino VFO.
At $59 for a kit SSB transceiver, most of us are happy to do a bit of debug if necessary,
we might even learn something.? I'm confident that all Bitx40 boards go out after verifying
that they work, but there are occasional cold solder joints, and broken wires on inductors
due to rough handling in transport.? International post is tough on packages.? Some arrive
with tire tracks over the package, there are videos of workers walking over the top of?
packages to push more into voids in the container.
If you can't deal with some debug, you may not be a part of the intended audience for
most any electronics kit out there.??
Good luck seeking refund or replacement, I generally would not expect that on?
a low end kit such as this.? You are doing a significant part of the build, hfsignals
could not sell them at $59 if all the Bitx40's getting built had to work perfectly well
for builders of all possible skill levels.? But give it a try if so inclined.
Their email address is? ?"hfsignals at gmail dot com".
A better option might be to post it for sale in this forum.
I would like to see hfsignals provide schematics that exactly match what is shipped.
And assembly instructions that show the newer uBitx style Raduino connector.
Glib statements about how easy it is to make it work can discourage
those for whom this is not the case.
But at this price, most of us are quite happy with the Bitx40.
Jerry, KE7ER
|
Roger, have they supplied you the board with raduino? If so i humbly feel , no point in seekin alternate components. All the best
Regards. Sarma vu3zmv
Jerry
You are entitled to your opinion, I just don’t happen to agree with you.? The video online reference that I was sent refers to those components being present. ?
There are minimal connections to hook up the board, but I was unable to sort the connections to the Raduino from the details supplied.? It was only with the excellent assistance of this forum that I managed to get it connected.
If you market a device as tested and working, it should arrive in that condition.? Mine arrived intact.? If it was likely to arrive damaged, I would rather pay another 10 bucks for better packing.? But that is my opinion.
Finally, irrespective of price, if you are likely to need debugging expertise, then the seller should say so on their web site.? In which case, I would not have bought it.? As it is, I have paid the same money for a case which I now can’t use.
Roger On 10 Sep 2019, at 6:04 pm, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io < jgaffke@...> wrote:
Roger,
L4 has not been stuffed on the Bitx40 since late 2016, when it first started shipping with the Raduino
to replace the rather unstable analog VFO.? (If L4 were stuffed, the analog oscillator would be
operating in addition to the VFO coming in from the Raduino, which would be a bad thing.)
Far as I know, C93 has never been stuffed, and certainly has no utility if using the Raduino VFO.
At $59 for a kit SSB transceiver, most of us are happy to do a bit of debug if necessary,
we might even learn something.? I'm confident that all Bitx40 boards go out after verifying
that they work, but there are occasional cold solder joints, and broken wires on inductors
due to rough handling in transport.? International post is tough on packages.? Some arrive
with tire tracks over the package, there are videos of workers walking over the top of?
packages to push more into voids in the container.
If you can't deal with some debug, you may not be a part of the intended audience for
most any electronics kit out there.??
Good luck seeking refund or replacement, I generally would not expect that on?
a low end kit such as this.? You are doing a significant part of the build, hfsignals
could not sell them at $59 if all the Bitx40's getting built had to work perfectly well
for builders of all possible skill levels.? But give it a try if so inclined.
Their email address is? ?"hfsignals at gmail dot com".
A better option might be to post it for sale in this forum.
I would like to see hfsignals provide schematics that exactly match what is shipped.
And assembly instructions that show the newer uBitx style Raduino connector.
Glib statements about how easy it is to make it work can discourage
those for whom this is not the case.
But at this price, most of us are quite happy with the Bitx40.
Jerry, KE7ER
|
That video is dated Dec of 2016, right when they started shipping with the Raduino
(and thus with L4 not installed).
And at the very start of the video, Farhan states that the unit he is debugging
has the analog VFO (not the Raduino), and points points to L4 to demonstrate?
how you can tell.? And states that his video also applies if your rig happens
to have the (then) new Raduino for a VFO.
Unless you fried it somehow by wiring it up incorrectly,
I'd guess it is very close to working properly.
Good luck, whatever you decide to do with it.
Jerry, KE7ER
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 10:34 AM, Roger Tuffin wrote:
The video online reference that I was sent refers to those components being present. ?
?
|
Thank you Jerry. ?I was very concerned about frying the Raduino because the board I received is quite different from the one on the site diagram. ?As I said, without the forum I would not have got that wired correctly.
The other wiring is so simple it would be difficult to get that wrong - EXCEPT for reverse polarity, for which I was very careful. It may be close to working, because I get the gentle hiss from the speaker per the instructions.?
I think you hit the nail on the head in your previous post. It appears this is TxRx that MAY need some sorting. ?ie it MAY not work when you receive it and it may need “debugging” to get it working. ?This is not the way it is marketed. ?If I had known that I would not have purchased, or at least I would have known the score. ?I certainly would not have bought a decent case until it was working.
We live and learn.
Roger
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10 Sep 2019, at 7:04 pm, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io < jgaffke@...> wrote:
That video is dated Dec of 2016, right when they started shipping with the Raduino (and thus with L4 not installed). And at the very start of the video, Farhan states that the unit he is debuggingam. ? has the analog VFO (not the Raduino), and points points to L4 to demonstrate? how you can tell.? And states that his video also applies if your rig happens to have the (then) new Raduino for a VFO. Unless you fried it somehow by wiring it up incorrectly, I'd guess it is very close to working properly. Good luck, whatever you decide to do with it. Jerry, KE7ER On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 10:34 AM, Roger Tuffin wrote:
The video online reference that I was sent refers to those components being present. ?
?
|
Vic WA4THR
Raj vu2zap
