So, my build is not standard. It powers on, but I get no sound even when I turn up the volume all the way. I confirmed the speaker is 8 ohm and it is mono (see connector in photo)

The way my build is non-standard is as follows: 1. No Keyer. I connected the green and blue wires on the Raduino with the 4.7K resistor but left the purple wire alone unconnected to anything. 2. Mic to 4pm connector. I used a CB style 4 pin connector and when I hookup a mic and key it, the radio goes into TX. So that seems OK.
My speaker wires seem to be correct. I used my multimeter and confirmed I've connected both the L and R channel pins to the Brown wire and the ground (blk) to the ring of the 1/8 jack.
I've taken a couple breaks and reinvestigated a couple ways, bought a new speaker even... and I'm stumped.
Any suggestions on what I can try next?
Thanks! W7PEA - Patrick
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Since you have connected L and R to the audio out then you CANNOT use a
mono jack.
A mono jack shorts out R and therefore L also.
Remove the inner R wire (the short jumper in photo) and you should get
your audio back
unless the chip has died.
Raj
At 26-04-18, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
So, my build is not standard. It
powers on, but I get no sound even when I turn up the volume all the
way.
I confirmed the speaker is 8 ohm and it is mono (see connector in
photo)
The way my build is non-standard is as follows:
1. No Keyer. I connected the green and blue wires on the Raduino with the
4.7K resistor but left the purple wire alone unconnected to
anything.
2. Mic to 4pm connector. I used a CB style 4 pin connector and when I
hookup a mic and key it, the radio goes into TX. So that seems
OK.
My speaker wires seem to be correct. I used my multimeter and confirmed
I've connected both the L and R channel pins to the Brown wire and the
ground (blk) to the ring of the 1/8 jack.
I've taken a couple breaks and reinvestigated a couple ways, bought a new
speaker even... and I'm stumped.
Any suggestions on what I can try next?
Thanks!
W7PEA - Patrick
|
I have a similar problem. My speaker connector is standard RCA. While testing for about half an hour it suddenly muted, nothing from the speaker.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Il 26/apr/2018 08:43, "Raj vu2zap" < rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
Since you have connected L and R to the audio out then you CANNOT use a
mono jack.
A mono jack shorts out R and therefore L also.
Remove the inner R wire (the short jumper in photo) and you should get
your audio back
unless the chip has died.
Raj
At 26-04-18, you wrote:
So, my build is not standard. It
powers on, but I get no sound even when I turn up the volume all the
way.
I confirmed the speaker is 8 ohm and it is mono (see connector in
photo)
The way my build is non-standard is as follows:
1. No Keyer. I connected the green and blue wires on the Raduino with the
4.7K resistor but left the purple wire alone unconnected to
anything.
2. Mic to 4pm connector. I used a CB style 4 pin connector and when I
hookup a mic and key it, the radio goes into TX. So that seems
OK.
My speaker wires seem to be correct. I used my multimeter and confirmed
I've connected both the L and R channel pins to the Brown wire and the
ground (blk) to the ring of the 1/8 jack.
I've taken a couple breaks and reinvestigated a couple ways, bought a new
speaker even... and I'm stumped.
Any suggestions on what I can try next?
Thanks!
W7PEA - Patrick
|
Blown audio amp chip. Desolder and put a socket.
Raj
At 26-04-18, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a similar problem. My
speaker connector is standard RCA. While testing for about half an hour
it suddenly muted, nothing from the speaker.
Il 26/apr/2018 08:43, "Raj vu2zap"
<
rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
- Since you have connected L and R to the audio out then you CANNOT use
a mono jack.
- A mono jack shorts out R and therefore L also.
- Remove the inner R wire (the short jumper in photo) and you should
get your audio back
- unless the chip has died.
- Raj
- At 26-04-18, you wrote:
- So, my build is not standard. It powers on, but I get no sound even
when I turn up the volume all the way.
- I confirmed the speaker is 8 ohm and it is mono (see connector in
photo)
|
Should I replace U1 the TDA2822 or Q70 the 2N3904?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Il 26/apr/2018 09:04, "Raj vu2zap" < rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
Blown audio amp chip. Desolder and put a socket.
Raj
At 26-04-18, you wrote:
I have a similar problem. My
speaker connector is standard RCA. While testing for about half an hour
it suddenly muted, nothing from the speaker.
Il 26/apr/2018 08:43, "Raj vu2zap"
<
rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
- Since you have connected L and R to the audio out then you CANNOT use
a mono jack.
- A mono jack shorts out R and therefore L also.
- Remove the inner R wire (the short jumper in photo) and you should
get your audio back
- unless the chip has died.
- Raj
- At 26-04-18, you wrote:
- So, my build is not standard. It powers on, but I get no sound even
when I turn up the volume all the way.
- I confirmed the speaker is 8 ohm and it is mono (see connector in
photo)
|
The U1 only. There are equivalents for 2822 also.
Don't used chips with marking WX on, they are failing!
Raj
At 26-04-18, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Should I replace U1 the TDA2822
or Q70 the 2N3904?
Il 26/apr/2018 09:04, "Raj vu2zap"
<
rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
- Blown audio amp chip. Desolder and put a socket.
- Raj
- At 26-04-18, you wrote:
- I have a similar problem. My speaker connector is standard RCA. While
testing for about half an hour it suddenly muted, nothing from the
speaker.
- Il 26/apr/2018 08:43, "Raj vu2zap"
<
rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
- Since you have connected L and R to the audio out then you CANNOT use
a mono jack.
- A mono jack shorts out R and therefore L also.
- Remove the inner R wire (the short jumper in photo) and you should
get your audio back
- unless the chip has died.
- Raj
- At 26-04-18, you wrote:
- So, my build is not standard. It powers on, but I get no sound even
when I turn up the volume all the way.
- I confirmed the speaker is 8 ohm and it is mono (see connector in
photo)
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Il 26/apr/2018 10:15, "Raj vu2zap" < rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
The U1 only. There are equivalents for 2822 also.
Don't used chips with marking WX on, they are failing!
Raj
At 26-04-18, you wrote:
Should I replace U1 the TDA2822
or Q70 the 2N3904?
Il 26/apr/2018 09:04, "Raj vu2zap"
<
rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
- Blown audio amp chip. Desolder and put a socket.
- Raj
- At 26-04-18, you wrote:
- I have a similar problem. My speaker connector is standard RCA. While
testing for about half an hour it suddenly muted, nothing from the
speaker.
- Il 26/apr/2018 08:43, "Raj vu2zap"
<
rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
- Since you have connected L and R to the audio out then you CANNOT use
a mono jack.
- A mono jack shorts out R and therefore L also.
- Remove the inner R wire (the short jumper in photo) and you should
get your audio back
- unless the chip has died.
- Raj
- At 26-04-18, you wrote:
- So, my build is not standard. It powers on, but I get no sound even
when I turn up the volume all the way.
- I confirmed the speaker is 8 ohm and it is mono (see connector in
photo)
|
|
Well that's disappointing, I have the WX branded one.
Is there a cross pin test you would suggest we check to verify?
thanks!
|
I had one without the wx and failed anyway after half an hour. It was marked with an M.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Il 27/apr/2018 08:22, "W7PEA" < patrick@...> ha scritto: Well that's disappointing, I have the WX branded one.
Is there a cross pin test you would suggest we check to verify?
thanks!
|
Just put in a socket and replace it!
Raj
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
At 27-04-18, you wrote: Well that's disappointing, I have the WX branded one.
Is there a cross pin test you would suggest we check to verify?
thanks!
|
Franco,
If you turn up the volume too much the chip heats up.. specially with 4
ohm speaker.
I blew up one non WX chip.
Instead of 12V you can feed the audio chip 9V from a regulator and you
will be safe.
Raj
At 27-04-18, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I had one without the wx and
failed anyway after half an hour. It was marked with an M.
Il 27/apr/2018 08:22, "W7PEA"
<patrick@...>
ha scritto:
- Well that's disappointing, I have the WX branded one.
- Is there a cross pin test you would suggest we check to
verify?
- thanks!
|
I use 13.6vdc. May this be a problem?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Il 27/apr/2018 09:15, "Raj vu2zap" < rajendrakumargg@...> ha scritto:
Franco,
If you turn up the volume too much the chip heats up.. specially with 4
ohm speaker.
I blew up one non WX chip.
Instead of 12V you can feed the audio chip 9V from a regulator and you
will be safe.
Raj
At 27-04-18, you wrote:
I had one without the wx and
failed anyway after half an hour. It was marked with an M.
Il 27/apr/2018 08:22, "W7PEA"
<patrick@...>
ha scritto:
- Well that's disappointing, I have the WX branded one.
- Is there a cross pin test you would suggest we check to
verify?
- thanks!
|
I ordered new chips and sockets from Amazon and slow-shipping because its not an amazon fulfilled product and shipping was going to be multiples of the cost of the parts.... so no fun for a few weeks.
I'll post back when I have parts in hand and I am making progress again.
|
Check the wiring at the potentiometer. I indeed reversed two of them, so as switched on the volume was highest. Maybe that was one cause of the failing TDA without the WX mark. Volume is plenty as there is no agc when signals are strong.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Il 28/apr/2018 21:16, "W7PEA" < patrick@...> ha scritto: I ordered new chips and sockets from Amazon and slow-shipping because its not an amazon fulfilled product and shipping was going to be multiples of the cost of the parts.... so no fun for a few weeks.
I'll post back when I have parts in hand and I am making progress again.
|
OK... Parts delivered and I'm back at it. I pulled the TDA2822M chip with the WX identifier and replaced it with a socket and a new TDA2822M by ST Microelectronics. So hooked it all back up and still no audio.
I tried a bunch of continuity test across the TDA and ground all around and it seemed OK. I was guessing a bit honestly.
I then plugged my speaker into my PC and noticed it was L channel so I moved my (+) wire across from the left to right pins (see above my jack is mounted upside down, pins up.) And BINGO we got static!
I'm not sure if the original chip was bad, or not, I sorta messed it up getting it off the board but I believe I had tried the speaker wired this way before as well so I assume it was bad.
Thanks for the help! W7PEA
|
I used two resistors of 15 ohms each. One connected to the right channel and one connected to the left, from the brown wire. I can use either stereo or mono headphone or speakers. Using an 8 ohm MFJ speaker I have plenty of volume.?
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Note: I used the wrong resistor (15K) and that reduced the audio way too much. I am now using a 10 Ohm resister and now its great!
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