开云体育

Where did you find the glc LIB???

There seems to me many versions around.

A link would be handy

glenn
vk3pe

Any reviews? Even descriptions would be nice.
tnx
jer aa1of

The switch is a simple ON/OFF switch, enabling power to pass into the circuit from the battery pack / DC barrel jack (since they're wired together).? The battery only works when something is not plugged into the barrel jack.? Battery is the battery pack, and DC J1 is the barrel jack.? The USB powers it without the switch, because it is feeding the voltage directly from the arduino, skipping the power input (battery/jack, switch, polarity protection, voltage regulator) altogether.

I'm going to do my best to explain this, but I usually am pretty bad at teaching.? So...

Power comes in from the PIN on the barrel jack (DC J1, pin 1), and ground is the barrel sleeve (DC J1, pin 2).? Power goes in, through D1, which as a diode allows current to pass in one way only (preventing you from blowing the circuit from powering it in reverse).? This then goes through the On/Off switch (SW1A), which blocks the circuit (off), or allows it to pass (on).? The current goes into U1, a linear power regulator that outputs 5volts.? From here, the current goes off to the various components.

The battery pack is wired in parallel (as opposed to series) with the DC power jack.? If nothing is plugged into the power jack, then voltage flows through D2 to the switch (same as in the case of the power jack), but the main difference here is the battery's ground side.? The negative side of the battery connects to ground (Battery1, pin 1), but does so THROUGH the barrel jack (DCJ1, pin 3).? If nothing is plugged in, pins 2 and 3 are grounded together, and thus the circuit is completed.? If something is IN the barrel jack, then pin 3 is forced away from pin 2 (ground), and thus breaks the circuit from ground, and the current can no longer flow.? This effectively cuts the battery out of the circuit whenever you power it from the DC jack.

Someone smarter than me should be able to explain it much better, but I hope I helped!? I highly recommend Grob's Basic Electronics, as well as Sparkfun electronics' learning pages.

~Josh
W0ODJ

So starting at the Barrel/Battery pack connectors we go through some 1v4148's as Reverse Polarity detection. From there we go to a switch which turns off the Antuino when running on battery or the barrel Jack. From there it goes into a 5v regulator.

The barrel jack looks to feature a D/C switch for the battery pack when something is plugged into it.

The max input is marked as about 35V according to the LM78L05 data sheet, realistically I'd stay under 12V just for burnout concerns.

I am slowly working through it all my self, Its quite a nice project!

-- Tim Keller - KE2GKB

$21 for an all metal enclosure is pretty good in my book. Yeah, Nextion displays cost a bit more than parallel or even I2C touch displays but they're a full computer running your UI for you. Makes programming a whole lot simpler. I'm standardizing on Nextion for all my projects going forward.

Is this still for sale?
--
73
NY2CW

I also purchased one of the Antuino's at FDIM.? Trying to figure a few things out and satisfy a few curiosities.

I believe the USB standard is for 5v with various power draws.? What is the voltage for the barrel connector, I'm assuming 5v again, and is the pin positive or negative.

Since I haven't tried plugging anything into the barrel connector I'm not sure what the purpose of the switch is, I'm assuming it's to control the power coming in on the barrel connector.

These questions may seem obvious to everyone else, but they're not so much to me.? I'm relatively new to the amateur radio field and pretty much everything else involving the hobby.? I have looked at the schematic and it's something else I'm learning.? I did notice a power section on the schematic that has Battery1 and DC J1.? I'm assuming that's what I'm referring to when it comes to the barrel connector and USB.

If someone who has a few minutes to spare can discuss the flow of that small power section so I can get an idea of what all those components are doing which will help me gain a better understanding of circuit flow.? So far, I think I've figured out that the output voltage is 5v onto the motherboard.? I do see the switch and don't quite understand what it does, besides the obvious of switching something on and off, my assumption is the barrel connector, it defintiely doesn't have an impact on the USB power.

ANy help would be greatly appreciated,

73
Mitch, KN4ONH

Check PTT and it's wiring. You should at least detect the carrier even if you don't speak

Curt,

I understood Fabian is already measuring output power according to your description above with his homemade Elecraft DL1 dummy load clone. I googled the schematics:

Together with the Elecraft supplied Voltage vs Power chart this looks fine for me.?

My first thought? also was?that it could? be? a power supply problem. Maybe a test with separated supplies for PA and the rest could be performed using the bench supply and the motorcycle battery. Or making use of? the oscilloscope,? monitoring power supply when keying in CW mode.

73 de Armin, DJ2AG

hello, have a? question... have test? my? ubitx on cw? and hear my signal on? another radio, all ok
? have? test? to? speak? on ssb ,? but not? hear? any signal... what are? the possible problem ? have? try? to set? bias?? but? i? dont look? power on meter?? with dummy load.

OM (I don't want to call you Mr. Freak) --

I should have asked how are you measuring power?? If for example you are measuring on a 50 or 100 watt scale - I would not trust the accuracy on the extreme low part of the dial.?

We should wonder if your rig is really outputting more power than you think is being measured?? Its actually pretty hard to reduce its power by a couple dB with circuit issues!?

Do measure your Power Supply voltage while transmitting !? If it is pulled down below 13 or 12 volts, the output power will go down.? its related to the square of the bias voltage on the finals.?

I am fortunate to have a WM2 wattmeter - its not perfect, but reasonable.? Its designed for QRP.? A decent power measurement can be made with a diode detector.? W7ZOI describes this method, and I have a widget for doing it.? It works nicely.? You need a 50 ohm dummy load (I used a couple 100 ohm 2 watt resistors in parallel) followed by a silicon diode in series, and there is a shunt capacitor I can't recall the value.? Then measure the voltage here at the output with a DVM - and its as easy conversion to power.? If you email me, I could dig to find the info.?

Your lab is quite good !? Most hams use only simple test equipment, and some of it can be homebrewed.?

A ham license is a life-long learners permit.? Don't fret but enjoy the journey.? See I learned something as I did not ask you enough questions !?

This is a cool rig, owned by thousands around the world.?

73 Curt

What is the latest? firmware version and where can I find a copy for the 3.5 Enhanced Nextion

73 Dale ZL2COM

Photo did not upload from my phone successfully, second try:
I picked up a couple of SMA-BNC jumpers at the ham fest and was playing with it yesterday afternoon - here is a photo of a PWR scan of the broadcast FM band using an HT whip as an antenna - a few strong local stations show up
73,?
Mike N2HTT

OM

Very nice work on your enclosure,? and nice pictures.

The path used to do CW in the ubitx is different than CW. In summary, a signal comes from the PLL at 45 MHz to almost directly feed the transmit finals. If this can make 8 to 10 watts into a dummy load, then it says your transmit finals are fine, and the issue is in the ssb path or transmit audio.

Any short across the key connection will exercise the cw path.

An audio oscillator just needs a single tone, it can be simple. I imagine there is an example here somewhere,? otherwise email me. No unusual parts are required.

Unless one mosfet was damaged, my first guess its the transmit audio.

Curt

PS mine doesn't quite make 5w on 40m, but I enjoyed several ssb contacts. Some folk live with enough noise to cover over your signal, so keep trying others.

Cor,

I find that busting up a conversation into separate threads?
as the subject wanders makes it very difficult to follow.
Especially months later when I search for it
and find that it has bifurcated into 3 or 4 different threads.

For example, if I were to change the subject heading on this post to
"I really don't care if the discussion wanders from the thread subject line",
then someone reading your comment might never know that I responded to it.

Good luck if you want several thousand people to follow your notion
of how the forum should be organized.?

When a topic comes up that is of interest, I add a note to a text file with
an excerpt and a message number so I can easily find the discussion again.
Between that and the search facility on the groups.io website,?
I can usually find stuff without too much trouble.

Jerry

None.
It's a conversation.

Junior

In its design the ubitx in its simplicity is different than other rigs we have used.? I am only understanding part of your discussion. Your ubitx seems to be a v3, not that different than my v4 except for that audio amplifier that you replaced.

The audio IC you provided likely has more output power, but as Raj suggests more audio gain from adding a single stage transistor amplifier would allow a louder output.

If something else undesirable is happening stay alert and clarify it here.

The ubitx is intended for your modification,? be patient and enjoy it.

Curt