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As far as alignment is concerned, if the new board has holes over the locations of the Pots on the uBitX board then that at least can be done without service cables or board removal. Clark Martin

I like to take a bit mapped image of something and paste it into my drawing program. Then I use it as a guide to drawing the object. Now I have a vector image of it which can be scaled up

At first I had some erratic keying. The contacts of my vibroplex paddle had to be cleaned as the contacts were showing a few 100 ohms and this was freaking out the Raduino. The keying is done by the

i draw them in inkscape. they are simple symbols to make. if you use the same thickness of lines eveeywhere, then they look consistent. the other thing to do is to scrap them off arrl handbook'a pdfs.

*3 Days getting familiar with the MicroBITX...* *CW Keying* as is - isn't really usable. Critical on the fix it list. It misses the first dit or even dah and the faster you send with the paddle, and

Does it receive ? Shake all trifilar toroids and any shorts may show up. Check all the yellow toroids for bad solder.. check continuity with multimeter in beep mode.. Raj

Take a look at this,?http://www.toptechboy.com/arduino/lesson-8-writing-analog-voltages-in-arduino/ I am trying to figure out a way to use this inline with the PA power supply to be able to control

The only things requiring a cable/wire are the AGC mods. All the rest interface with the existing headers and would just plug in. Noted though... could make it a cable that's easy to remove.

This new board will hide all the parts on the uBitx, servicing will require a cable set to split the boards. Might be better to flip over the uBitx. Alternately, mount the new board under the uBitx

This has been very useful to me so I'll share it in case it is useful to others. I have written an Arduino sketch that provides a simple command-line console (serial) to control most features of an

Happy 2018 for everyone in everywhere. Here something I am doing before to test the board for a 'modular rig" This is the Qrp PA (100 x 33 mm)from the Bitx40v3 schematic with small change in the

Layout is important, as John has said.? I'd suggest a very short source lead soldered directly to the ground plane, keep the drain lead well separated from the other two (Allison suggests clipping

Correct, a custom clearance fee but there should not be any taxes.

DHL will charge a customs clearance fee and ?HST will be applied to the value of the goods on top of that.? For the BITX40 the extra charges were around $Can 30, so it will be more for the uBITX.

So, this is roughly what I'm thinking for the layout thus far. Here's what you're seeing thus far: uBitx is underneath the PCB on .5" standoffs (Supplied with the uBitx kit). The uBitx itself is 1/4"

Alex: What you are doing is all the right things to find the right combination to drive the IRF510's. Get a hold of and really read the original article by WA2EBY for all the things he discovered

General rule of thumb is no more than 25 to 30% of the total output of the rig. He always control the output by the audio level in and if you can monitor it back off until the alc Barely indicates....

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So looking at the schematic, it's basically an IF amp (MC1350P, which is obsolete/harder to get, though I have gotten them from Jameco before) with a dual gate mosfet as the attenuation stage. The

You save on package count with the TPIC6B595. It’s basically an HC595 with 150 mA sink drivers. <http://www.ti.com/product/TPIC6B595 <http://www.ti.com/product/TPIC6B595>> Clark Martin KK6ISP