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Hi I always have used PCBWell with better deals 73’s Jc

Mike, I just submitted the same gerber files to PCBWay for a quote and they came back with a price of $115 for the 10 boards. They said that the files were for nine designs and did not qualify for the

Seems to me it would be a good use for the group's wiki. Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/ http://www.metalworkingfun.com

To continue (but probably unnecessary): Unplug antenna and repeat finger test, there's a click when tapping X4 can. Wind up the volume and X4 is now sensitive (must be at least a further 20dB down).

Thank you very much for the information. Have a good day Ted.

Hi All If you search Aliexpress for "usb mini usb cable 20 cm" you will see many suitable cables, you need one with a right angle end and the are available in left or right make sure you get the

Hello Phil. The problem is to find the compatible cable. Not easy to find among the many sellers on the net. Thank you very much and good day. 73 and good day.

Yes, I use a short cable to connect to the rear panel from the Arduino, saves taking the case apart for every update, or rather it will when I finish the build. I found a cable with a right angled

Just wondering if there is a single resource that covers all the required mods and fw updates to optimize this product. Scrolling thru a lot of posts seems to be a bit drawn out in tyring to sort thru

Sane, Mike! Just for interest, the maths. Given each LED drops 1.3V or so and 5V supply, LED current (with your link in place) is about (5 - (2*1.3))/110 = 22mA or so, so given quiet Rx rig current of

Sorry, folks. Typos galore and hit Enter too soon. Try this: F5RCT's post highlighted one of my findings. While struggling for receive capability, I used the 'finger test', finger to screwdriver blade

F5RCT's pot highlighted one of my findings. While struggling for receive capability, I use the 'finger test', finger to screwdriver blade tapping various places along the chia. There was at that point

Something I noticed a while back, the schematic is laid out almost exactly the same as the board, at least at the block level. Roughly matches the board oriented like this: I don’t know if it’s

My PCB ( RaduinoX) has a place for a 1W resistor to lower LCD Back light current.? It is marked "R9", but I ship it with a shorted wire across it. This could also be used for a switch for back

-- Mike Hagen, WA6ISP 10917 Bryant Street Yucaipa, Ca. 92399 (909) 918-0058 PayPal ID "MotDog@..." Mike@...

I did that for 'tuning clicks'. 220uF *just* did the job - I'd recommend 470 or more. My original (banjaxed) raduino was drawing excessive current, though still under 1A, so my 47E was 2W (what was to

What Dex says is correct. I ordered a jbot amplifier board by India Post, took about 1.5 weeks only, no duty or tax Brent? VE3CUS

Your connector isn't soldered in. Vince.

Move the 7805 to the back of the PCB. Add 47 Ohm and a bypass cap to the front of the regulator. I have done this on my RaduinoX PCB, as well as Bolting the regulator to a ground heat sink with a 6-32

My approach is to add a 7808 regulator at the power input, so the voltage drop is in two stages.? This would feed only the "12V" input to the main circuit.? The "PA12" would still be fed from the