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push-pull amp also need less idle current...

The push-pull with two transistors is a better idea than a single ended amplifier. 1. the push-pull distributes heat over two transistors. This is quite an advantage if you are planning to dissipate

Engineer @gmail... those I know none IGBT go that high frequency, not yet ;)

The main downside is your project will stop working and you won't be able to fix it, then you will give up. Put it in a box and build an antenna for it, and get on the air. S

All: Anyone who is using interrupts might also want to avoid delay() as it is a blocking function. That is, if an interrupt event occurs during a delay() call, that interrupt cannot be serviced until

* Thanks Satish I'll do that and let's see if I can get more power.* * Jorge PY2PVT _._* 2017-04-29 11:38 GMT-03:00 Satish Chandorkar <satish.vu2snk1@...>:

Thanks David, for your suggestion about avoiding the delay(). I'll try to include it in the next version. Also good to hear that you managed to (almost) eliminate the birdie with 8mA drive

Hi Randy, Thanks for your info. My bitx40 had no power in tx, I compared the voltage on all transistors with your measurements and this way found q13 defective. replacing it with a new one was

Ah! That explains! I wasn't aware if this. Thanks very much Miguel! 73, Allard PE1NWL

Ok, so I tried the following si5351 drive levels (using 1.06 ): 2mA : ?loud @ 7.199 4mA: loud @ 7.199 6mA: loud @ 7.199 8mA: very soft @ 7.199 I've left it at the 8mA level for now. ?Thanks,

Please look at : http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,123176.0.html ( http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,123176.0.html ) The analog pins A6 and A7 can't be used as digital 73 from py2ohh

I went in a similar direction and made a WA2EBY linear. ?It wants 1W in and includes provisions for an input attenuator on the board. ?I put the pi attenuator in a separate box as I sometimes use

This gives a pretty good discussion and touches on "floating" pins. Arduino - DigitalPins | | | | | | | | | | | Arduino - DigitalPins | | | | Jack, W8TEE To:

So I bought one of the original $47 Bitx40's but I have been working away from home and fisrt wire do it up yesterday. I did order an ioLabs VFO for it and then got a raduino for it but have touché

One thing that I need to do yet is to check the power draw while in RX and TX. How are BITX builders putting a ammeter in line with the power supply? I don't want to cut any of my power cords. I

In older Arduino versions you had to first define a pin as input, and then do a digital write HIGH to it to enable the internal pull-up resistor: pinMode(pin, INPUT); // set pin to

you are right Rich, it doesn't need much input. Hence, we can dismantle all RF power from the exciter board and let the 45W handle that. regards sarma vu3zmv ihc73scout2@...>

> > > ?On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 07:32 am, Michael Davis wrote: If the current paradigm isn't acceptable, change the paradigm. I get zero email. ?Ok, not 100

I was on the PIC List probably back to the 80's. Same deal, users have so much difference in the level of help they need. Then the chit chat was even worse. One thing they made was a topic called

A simple suggestion why not to increase the drain voltage on the existing IRF510 to 24V / 27 V to increase the output power with proper increase in heat sink area to keep it cool and keeping the eye