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Congrats Phil ! It would be a fun exercise to have folks post the distance covered in their first contact with the BitX. Mine was a bit over 600 miles (1000 km), quite a thrill to see this little

We used to say "fuses are for sissies". LoL Have fun guys, it's a toy! This email is intended only for the use of the party to which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged,

The wiring directions on the hfsigs website are correct when they call for the orange wire of the 5-PIN connector to go to +12 volt power (through the on/off switch). My now painfully obvious mistake

What are the values of the capacitor to be used in the filter for 80 meter . I dont want to by the filter because qrn and grm is very high in our location . Thanks in advance . Vu2rjw Soundar

Still no luck in resolving my "squeal". So far, I have removed C113 across pins 1 and 8 of the LM386 in order to reduce it's gain. Big improvement to audio, at least to my ears. The "squeal" at low

Are you using screened audio leads or simply two wires? If you are not using screened wired between the source you are using and the mic input you are courting all sorts of

Thanks for the info john , Marco and Garza. The 2n3904c was described as a switching transistor while the 2n3904 as a small signal transistor. Thats why I had a doubt. F(t) is certainly matching. I

Okay, one more chance to look dumb. What if A2 which is an analog input and has no voltage by design is actually damaged? And changing the code to A1 or A0 for calibration instead? re-up the sketch

Hi, "Tie High" means - via a resistor connect this wire to +5V. Red Wire -----C---- RESISTOR ----------- +5V Then the junction between the red wire and resistor (Where the "C" is above) is

Hi Darryl Please tell me precisely how I am to do this. What pin do I connect to the 5 v rail? What does “tie it high” mean? Where is the 5 v rail? What resistor (resistance and wattage) should

To elaborate on this topic; Source: ?http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/83133/arduino-digitalread-reading-wrong What you have is called a?Floating?pin. Digital Input pins are very

Darryl's suggestion is good. Take a wire and temporarily apply 5v to the pin. Careful! Watch out for grounding. Been there; done that. If the loop stops, then there is a problem with the pin; if not,

Try using a 220 ohm resistor to high instead of straight to +V in case there is a short somewhere on the board causing the error. Creating a +V to GND without any resistance at all is a quick way to

That may be a key observation. The program expects that pin to be at 5v UNLESS the red wire is grounded. It is the transition from 5v to 0v that causes the call to the calibration routine. If the pin

Tie it high, a floating input can be influenced by the adjacent pin(s). wrote: part of the mystery. Groups.Io <iam74@... [1]> wrote: "ominously, I got zero volts from the

But it’s doing it whether the pin is grounded or not. That’s part of the mystery.

"ominously, I got zero volts from the Arduino red wire." P.S. With the calibration pin at zero volts, that would also cause the program to loop. It looks at the pin for zero volts, finds it, calls

I might film what is happening and upload it. Maybe that would provide others with a better sense of the issues.

Grounding the red wire causes the menu for calibration to appear. If the red wire is attached to a pin on the Nano, that means that pin is always at zero volts. But that is what the program expects to

Ok. I have quite a lot of work to do, but it will be a few days before I can get to it. I did a few tests and, ominously, I got zero volts from the Arduino red wire. I suspect that, somehow, I damaged