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The regulator would eliminate the need to fuse both power leads as well as simplify the power switching setup. With separate inputs you would need a relay or a DPST power switch to turn power on and

Thanks guys, why use a regulator at all? I was thinking by tapping the first battery at 12v then stack another on top to get 24 volts and feed that to the regulator. Here is a basic schematic of what

I ordered one back in Novermber, and another in January. Tracking for both had no updates after the "insert into bag." About 2 weeks later they were in my mailbox. rei_ten@...>

If you are going to do that, I would be tempted to feed an LM7818 from the 24V and feed the output of the LM7818 to the LM7812 to keep the heat dissipation low in each regulator. 73 Paul VA6PW

Even though ?the schematic shows a different transistor number, the boards are built with 2N2904 SMD transistors. Should be safe to use. Marco - KG5PRT

That should work fine. Others have mentioned using a regulator (like a LM7812) to feed the radio and the direct feed (24v) for the PA. Good Luck Marco - KG6PRT wrote:

I had a reduction in minor birdies and overall switching noises from the Raduino. I get the same birdie from a completely different VFO also based on an Arduino chip, and SI 5351. And another

See ?/g/BITX20/topic/4332092 ( /g/BITX20/topic/4332092 )

Normal. I ordered mine on December 25th. It was put in the mail a few days later, but once it was put in the bag, no more tracking occurred until it showed up in my mailbox a little less then 3 weeks

I get a birdie when receiving exactly on 7200. What might this be from? Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD

Today there was again a new release v2.03 of the si5351 library. I immediately tried it, but unfortunately I still have very strong tuning clicks with this version. As is the case with the recently

I'm thinking of running 2 12 volt batteries in series. I plan to tap the middle and feed the bitx 12 volts and feed the amp 24 volts. Does this make sense or am I missing something?

In what way did it improve?

I'm the same! No tracking update since "insert into bag" at Mumbai air on 3/14.

No, it's the elephant in the room that everyone is ignoring! Roy WA0YMH

RG174 for the DDS too. And use an old audio shielded cable from a PC CD drive for audio runs. The only unshielded wiring in mine is power. Those are twisted. Removing the excess unneeded wiring

I plan on keeping the speaker, power, antenna (will use rg-174), and tuning wires as short as I can. The longest part I suppose would be the volume and DDS connector because those would be on the lid

I will definitely use coax for the antenna connector and the DDS pair.

Will probably work ok with longer leads, but with increasing issues such as birdies due to vfo harmonics mixing with the bfo, perhaps rf getting into the volume pot leads causing speaker noises when

As a general rule, with unshielded wires, twist them. In particular, the RF leads on the back, and do keep those short. Dress leads close to the chassis if possible, and use small zip ties to tie