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I use a separate switch DPDT ON-OFF-ON switch. In one position you feed 12V to both the main board and the final, in the other on position I feed 19.8 volts to the final and 12 volts to the board as

!!!!!!?? It's alive !!!! It was a burned trace. I traced the voltage and saw 13.7 at L8 and 7-9 at T7.? I soldered a jumper on the back of the board from L8 to T7 pin 6 and now I have 13.7 volts

Adding momentary switches to both ends of the potentiometer would be a simple and frugal alternative to holding the pot at either 0 or 10k ohms. Another approach would be to use a rotary encoder and

But that's the fun part! And then you can get an audio and signal report. Win-win! Jonathan - KK6RPX

I have a Yahoo group named SoftwareControlledHamRadio and some posts are about the antenna analyzer. No other components need to be changed.? Jack, W8TEE To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, March

Wiring it the way you have in the drawing will work perfect for me. The only thing I'm struggling with now is the mic. It has a three section jack (tip,ring,grd) as well. I'm figuring I could either

What OS are you using? I've run in to this in Linux if my user account didn't have permissions to use the serial interface. If it's Windows, it's possible you have the wrong COM port selected.

Some of these arguments confirm why I use a rotary encoder for tuning and menu selection. I have discussed my Fast Tune method here using the encoder which changes the frequency increment

Rafal, You're probably right, the impedance mismatch at the product detector is a good issue to look into. ?Check crystal filter response carefully before and after making any changes to impedance

Hi For the speaker, depends on how you plan on using it. If the radio will not have an internal speaker, then wire up to pins 3 and 4. If the radio will have an internal speaker, then you need to

Randy, Thanks for that drawing, I had not seen it. I believe that will resolve the issue for me. regards, Richard - W2KAP wrote:

I realized I should have put my understanding down along with the ask for help. Attached is a drawing I found that seems to represent our EP sockets included in the kit. My understanding is that, for

Richard EP, is that the ear phone jacks? If so, plug in a plug and use an ohm meter to figure out which pin on the plug goes to the pin on the socket. Also, someone posted this drawing a while

You can read the assembly manual and find that there is a substitute part for the IC. It is a SMD, but I had no trouble soldering it to the board and I'm two years younger than dirt. You can find the

Did you install the IDE drivers? Jack, W8TEE To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, March 17, 2017 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BITX20] calibration routine fixed (raduino v1.0.2) In attempting to

Thinking I fully understood the wiring of the BX and then having buggered it up more than once, I ask the collective for instructions for wiring up the two EP jack sockets. I have the link from last

I figured it out, the wrong device type was chosen.

In attempting to upload this sketch to my arduino, I am getting the following error avrdude: error: programmer did not respond to command: exit bootloader I have tried it multiple times, and have

I'm using a Samlex switching supply that I use for everything in my shack. Works great. I wouldn't get a cheap supply for radio work. RPX

Yup. Run a wire from the + side of the power jack to one side of the switch. Then put all three of the other + wires to the other side of the switch, orange from the VFO and the brown wires from both