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Thanks Raj, I will do that mod tomorrow. Better to be safe than sorry I suppose. -- Mike VK3XL

Mike, Q13 blew due to other transmitter! Put two diodes 1N4148 or similar parallel but opposite direction from Relay K1 pin 12 to ground. This will prevent voltages greater than about 1V from going

I left my BitX40 running all day on RX and I came back to TX later in the afternoon... No TX output.... Found Q13 was dead. My BitX40 was powered at 13.8v for about 8 hours on RX only and it was a

Hi John, Any of them will work just fine.? The original BitX used 1n4148 but I suspect Ashhar specced the Bat54s as it was the same cost but matched Schottky diodes with better forward drop as you

Goran, There's a slightly modified Raduino sketch in the files section in a folder "BitX40 using the new library". I'm assuming you have connected the BitX and it doesn't tune around 40m rather than

Good to hear you got it working again. ?Pretty cool! Not many people can get an RF burn from 5 Watts. ?You might have some other ham look over how you have that antenna set up. ?(OK, I now see Raj

John, RF burn tells me that you antenna plug/jack and/or your coax connector shield is not connected. Please check thoroghly! You can't have RF floating around on the board to cause a burn! Please

Hey, Jerry, ?never felt like it was getting enough audio power to the final amplifier. That's why I was still chasing the white rabbit. I just wanted to share with you and the others that I replaced

When my kit arrives I'll use Powerpoles with a 1462G1 mount. Thanks for the heads up. 73 ?Bruce ?N1EBQ

David,?your IK3OIL would work much better, after you do the mods suggested by RAJ. We have to first bring the LO? close to wanted frequency and then close the FLL to? o lock to wanted frequency.

David, You can stabilise the analog VFO to a great level. Change all the capacitors from C91-96 to type C0G and the trimmer C93 to a Murata equivalent. Use only C0G or NP0 - X7R and similar will not

Hi all, My Bitx40 arrived couple days ago and now I've got some time to play around. Decided to start with Raduino first, wired the tuning pot, and put the scope probe on brown and red wires (VFO

Having bought an early version without the Raduino I tried the FLL by IK3OIL. I made a small board fitting under the VFO section which contains a varicap (giving about 15khz swing from 9 to 5 volts)

Farhan's in here somewhere saying that the board's designed for 13.8V nominal with a max of 15. /g/BITX20/message/18201?p=Created,,,20,1,0,0::Relevance,,voltage,20,2,0,4105151 (

Thank you very much for your help! I made a list of the resistors in the three blocks of the circuit, and using the schematic tested and wrote down the resistance from the component on either side of

First off, out of curiosity, are you swapping out that dual diode for any particular reason? ?There's one confirmed case of that part causing low power output, if that's what you are chasing. ?But

Randy -Great video resource! ?The BitX has come a long ways since I bought mine from Doug Hendricks four years ago. I saw you had other videos, so I know how I'm going to spend my Friday night right

So, I replaced the dual diode with two 1n60 observing polarity and checking continuity at the unused pads before starting. Now it would not power up until I disconnected the PA power line. I had to

Thanks Gian, I will give it a try when I have time! 73, Allard

Aargh! Just found that on my BITX40, the torroid L4 was still in place - it should be removed when the raduino is connected to the DDS input. So I removed it and now (most of) the AM carriers are