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Everything you ever wanted to know about Huff & Puff stabilisers: http://hanssummers.com/huffpuff - there you will find a library of almost every article ever written about the Huff & Puff VFO,

Hi listening to If it all works fine and you're happy with it, that's fine. But just FYI... The 27MHz crystal in the QRP Labs Si5351A Synth kit usually oscillates between 27.003 and 27.005. I have

Looking from the front of the rig what are the correct pot connections - left to right. Red Brown Black or Black Brown Red? Thanks - Noel

Connections between the VFO and the Bitx are Clock 0, ground, the to the 2 pin connector next to the vfo coil approximately in the middle of the board. You have to remove the VFO coil as per

On my QRP-LABS DDS VFO, my correction came out to 27.010.5. So it was a matter of fiddling with it, and I was able to tune it in by listening to a known station frequency like East Cars, and

Yes, could have done that. But wasn't bothered to remove the board when the capacitors could just be soldered on the top side!

Hi Peter, Wouldn't it be better to remove the 47pf C102 all together and short the terminals together, then put a 2-40pf trimmer cap back in place where it is missing? Then you could adjust it while

CPD, & I just needs an exiter for some mods... Will it be OK for U if I send U Raduino? Here already got 8 diffrent kind of DDS... 'Repair & Reuse or Recycle E-Waste' BITX20@...>

(I think Bill might have mentioned this on Soldersmoke but I can't find the reference) My Bitx has C102 as 47pF and no carrier frequency adjust trimmer (C103). It sounded very slightly bassy,

to bat for thr ft817nd, its big compromise is the speaker itself. a larger speaker helps. my main complain about it is the rx current consumption BITX20@...> wrote:

And Tom, Please leave the previous replies below so we know to which message you replied to! Cheers Raj

Tom, The 10 turn pot has the diagram engraved on the body next to the leads. It is just that the center wiper is at one end instead of the middle. Raj

Bill, One question, when you switch to transmit does the current jump to 1A when you speak into the mic or without speaking? Raj

I did not activate the attenuator or the IPO. I wanted it to be as apples to apples as possible. I can also turn down the RF gain and run up the AF gain for some of those buried signals. The

Bitx definitely the best sounding of the lot. Excessive gain + AGC can create that commercial gear 'canned audio' sound that builders enjoy freedom from. I'm a big fan of the FT817 but yours

If the 510 gets hot, I'd check for shorts in the coils of the low pass filter or the antenna connector. If you are intending to replace the relay, you could pull it out and short the connectors for

Kent, I think your BitX40 had the best sounding audio of them all, the 450 next, and I was astounded at how noisy the 817s receiver was, and to think I always wanted one of those, not

After my initial troubles with a broken L2, the BITX40 is hearing well and making some surprising contacts. Here's a little comparison video of the received audio from the BITX, the FT-817, and the

Ideally with the stock lm386 & with an 8 ohm loudspeaker, for good intelegebility, how many watts would be best? Also, though a mic element is already supplied, what would be the ideal impedance for a

Got it, thank you. I couldn't find the pot wiring on the schematic showing the wiper. 73 Tom