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You'll figure it out. Don't give in! 73 Ken [BITX20] <BITX20@...> wrote:

That's also a good idea Arv. 73 Ken BITX20@...> wrote:

Or, you can take the opposite approach...insert the signal at the IF side of the BFO mixer and then move back towards the antenna in steps. Where the signal disappears should be close to the

Theoretically you should see around the 50 uvolts. Just trace the signal through the stages. If there's a big drop, then check out the stage previous. Keep in mind, that even though a solder joint

Well, I made sure again that the transformers were not shorted. I was getting a high voltage on the base of Q13 (Pre amp BC849) and suspected it was bad. This is because the radio was working great at

Thanks Ken, I have a DDS based signal source that I can program anywhere between a few khz and 35 Mhz that should do the trick. I will check its output level before connecting it to the BitX40 and

If you have a signal source, very low level, feed it into the antenna and trace the signal. Keep in mind that 50 uvolts is S9, so if your source is higher, try loosely coupling. 73 Ken

Powered it from a 12v battery last night still no joy. Initially the VCO was still very unstable but settled down after some time but still no signals received via a dipole. Any clues on where to

It might be worse since there is no enclosure at all. Maybe not really warming up at all. I'm hoping the enclosure itself will have some heat retention. There are some transistors that can be used as

What would happen if you added an intentional heater to the enclosure? I'm thinking of something like the flat stick-on pads used to warm reptile tanks, stuck on the underside of the radio enclosure?

I recently received my BitX-40 board. Until I get the enclosure, I only hooked it up for receive. Worked right out of the box. The only issues I've found is the drift is pretty bad even after being

No. There is no BITX posting except for the BITX20A by Hendrix. There has been no review activity for this rig since 2013 (when it first came out). So, users....review to e-ham.net under "QRP Radios

Thanks Joel! wrote:

Ashhar, Yes, that is the one I'm talking about. I'll rewind as you instructed, and I'll double check the transformers for shorts as well. [BITX20] <BITX20@...> wrote:

Mike, L7 is a T37-6 toroid. Joel KB6QVI [BITX20] <BITX20@...> wrote:

Mike, Are you talking about the PA filter inductor? pull it out and wind your own with 17 turns. If, you can retrieve it, then take a turn out and put it back as a 16 turn inductor, the value is not

Hello Ashhar, Thanks for the feed back. I don't have an oscilloscope unfortunately, but upon closer inspection, I noticed that the toroid for L7 (1.1 uH) is actually broken. A small sliver of it

has anyone posted a review of the bitx40 kit on eham.net? i know that there are reviews of the bitx20 kit but i didn't find any of suni's kit or the bitx40. - f

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Mike, distortion is not cured by replacing the IRF510s. The low output is certainly due to the transformer windings being shorted. Pry them apart with a toothpick. Do you have an oscilloscope that you