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Date

Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

Send an email to hfsignals at gmail dot com stating you're an old customer and would like the Raduino upgrade..

Do it now, they were offering the upgrade to old customers for $14, but seems they were cutting it off right about today.


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

Using a pot between antenna and ground, center wiper into the receiver, seems the most obvious thing. ?The ideal place for such an RF gain control would be in the wire between K2-14 and K1-12, an attenuator there will only affect the receiver. ?Pot should have short wires to it, or use coax.

Should also work fine to put a 1k pot in front of C11, as output of the transmit amp at Q4 would then only see 1k to ground regardless of the position of the RF gain control. ?Also, that node is free floating with DC blocking caps in all directions. ?But can't be on the Q1 side of C11, as that would muck with the DC bias into the base of Q1. ? ?

What's the best way to do AGC here, such that it affects the RF gain and not AF gain?

Does Don's trick of cutting power to Q1 make that first RX amp go non-linear, and introduce crud into the received signal?


On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 05:42 am, Lawrence Galea wrote:

The simplest way.
A pot at the aerial input to the receiver side.
50¦¸, 100¦¸, 1k¦¸, 10k¦¸ whatever you have.
Aerial input to the top, centre to receiver, other contact to earth.

?


RADUINO

kq2q2000
 

Hello,

I received a new BitX40 in December.

I see that the 2017 units come with a Raduino DDS

I would like to order one or two Raduino's. How do I do that?

I do not see them for sale on the webpage.

Thank you,

Bob? KQ2Q Danielsville, GA




Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

Jack Purdum
 

I bread boarded Peter's set up and it works great. The only variation I had was I put the LED and LDR in a sleeve of shrink tubing. (I bought a bag of the stuff at Dayton for next-to-nothing and I'm going to have to live to be 150 to use it all up. If it doesn't move and I can't eat it, it ends up in shrink tubing...)

Jack, W8TEE



From: Peter Parker <parkerp@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

Another AGC idea. ?
Uses an LED & LDR. ?Louder signals brighten the LED which reduces the LDR's value which reduces the volume, so compressing the audio.?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ5JEPRiPoM



Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

The simplest way.
A pot at the aerial input to the receiver side.
50¦¸, 100¦¸, 1k¦¸, 10k¦¸ whatever you have.
Aerial input to the top, centre to receiver, other contact to earth.
Used it way way back and it works.?
Low values are better.?
Just try it.

V
I ? ? ? ?Potentiometer?
I ------- Antenna
<
>
<
><---------Receiver input
<
>
I ------- earth


Re: Second tuning pot in analog

 

Thank you

72, Bob KI0G

On Jan 23, 2017, at 7:19 AM, Rajendra Kumar G G <vu2zap@...> wrote:

Bob,


Re: Second tuning pot in analog

 

Bob,

A bourns 100K 10 turn pot will do a great job.

Alternatively use a pot of 10% of the value of the main tuning and connect the center and end pin in series to the tuning pot.

Disconnect the earth end of original tuning pot.
Connect the end of fine tune pot to ground.
Connect the center of fine tune pot to the main pot disconnected earth end.
If the tuning works reverse of what you expect then use the other end of fine tune pot to ground.

That should do it!

At 23/01/2017, you wrote:

How do you wire the second pot in series?


72, Bob KI0G


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

R15 serves as part of the stage supply filtering. I would leave it. If you want to remove R16 then be sure to install a 220 ohm resistor in series with the switch or control. That will limit the current. A switch works very well, don't discount the simplicity and utility.

I would recommend that you only do this at this one stage. The others need to provide the proper terminations to the crystal filter. -ND6T


Re: Battery recommendation...with external amp

 

Sounds like I would be well off going LIPO, I don't want to go with an automotive or RV battery - I have to lug one of those when I go camping anyway, as I run a CPAP on an inverter when I am sleeping (if I start out fully charged it lasts a full weekend), but I really don't want to run my radio equipment off the same battery, for obvious reasons. If I can charge my radio battery packs off my car's battery overnight, then run the car engine for a bit to charge the car battery back up, or run a SMALL solar charger during the day to charge spare packs (big panels get expensive...), that would be fine as well. I live in northern Michigan so we don't get as much sun (or wind, most of the time) as the fellow in Texas does...

Rich
KC8MWG


On Monday, January 23, 2017 1:12 AM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:



If I had the motorcycle battery handy, I'd certainly use it. ?Check water levels occasionally if it has vent caps, especially if it's on the charger much. ?I even suggested somebody try a motorcycle battery here a few weeks ago when I thought they might be having trouble with their switching power supply. ?But they aren't built to give a lot of discharge cycles, and lithium is far better than lead if you are going to be lugging it around in a backpack. ?



Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

Another AGC idea. ?

Uses an LED & LDR. ?Louder signals brighten the LED which reduces the LDR's value which reduces the volume, so compressing the audio.?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ5JEPRiPoM


Re: Question about power to raduino

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Mine hasn't arrived here either yet but in addition to Steve's advice, I would also check that you have a ground connection to the Raduino board.

Bill, VK7MX


On 23/01/2017 4:38 PM, Steve Robertson wrote:

My unit hasn't arrived yet, but the instructions on the BITX site say:

Solder the orange wire to the DC power switch on the volume control

Sooo, there's a switch on the volume control, one side of that switch has to have the power input and the other side is the switched power, use a meter and to find the switched terminal, then hook your orange wire there.



Re: Battery recommendation...with external amp

 

If I had the motorcycle battery handy, I'd certainly use it. ?Check water levels occasionally if it has vent caps, especially if it's on the charger much. ?I even suggested somebody try a motorcycle battery here a few weeks ago when I thought they might be having trouble with their switching power supply. ?But they aren't built to give a lot of discharge cycles, and lithium is far better than lead if you are going to be lugging it around in a backpack. ?


Re: Battery recommendation...with external amp

M Garza
 

Thanks for the info, Jack.? The battery is a sealed lead acid from a game feeder.? I had it & the solar panel, so I though I would use them.? I want to be able to hike out to the shore (3 miles or so) with everything.
Since I will be playing with arduino now, I should pickup that book.

Thank you everyone, for the direction and suggestions.

Sorry Rich, I did not mean to hijack the thread.

Marco - KG5PRT

On Jan 22, 2017 11:24 PM, "Jack Purdum via Groups.Io" <econjack=[email protected]> wrote:
Marco:

I don't know how "portable" you need to be, but I've used a 10W panel with my Forty-9er and it worked well. I was given a 7AH motorcycle battery, so that's what I used. I don't use it a lot, but when I have, it worked fine. As I recall, the panel is about 17"x10" and weighed about 3.5lbs. I also used a cheap ($10) solar panel charge regulator with the setup. I kept all of the electronics and battery in a toolbox. (I had an Arduino controlled stepper motor that adjusted the panel throughout the day so it always faced the sun. You can see it in the Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio book.)

Jerry's suggestion for a different battery makes sense and may be cheaper in the long run.

Jack, W8TEE



From: M Garza <mgarza896@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2017 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Battery recommendation...with external amp

Jerry,
WOW.? Completely off grid.? Nice.
I guess I need to investigate better batteries (NI-MH maybe?) and solar/wind power.? I live near the coast, in S. Texas.? Plenty of sun and wind. ?

Marco - KG5PRT


On Jan 22, 2017 9:28 PM, "Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io" <jgaffke=[email protected]> wrote:
That battery should have 12v*7AH = 84 Watt-Hours of power in it.? Will take at least 84/1.5 = 56 hours of full sunlight perpendicular to the panel to recharge the battery.? Assuming the rig is 6 Watts at 50% efficiency (so draws 12 Watts), could run the rig for 84/12 = 7 hours of continuous transmitting, perhaps 10 times that for just receive.? Could deal with your 30 Watt amp as well, for a while.
A starting battery like that is built for occasional high current draw for a few seconds.? They are not built to be repeatedly discharged.? So the lead plates are more of a lead foam, for maximum surface area, and disintegrate after the battery is discharged a few times.? Avoid discharging below 11v or so, and always charge it back up as soon as possible to avoid sulfation. The motorcycle battery will get you started but will wear out with use.? There are deep-cycle lead acid batteries built to be discharged 1000 times, that is not one of them.? A lithium-ion battery pack might be a better choice long term. ? I doubt that panel will be worth the bother, though when the sun is out it should at least keep up with the Bitx40 receive current draw.
All near and dear to my heart.? We're fully off grid, running from an 18 KWh deep cycle lead acid battery bank in the basement and 4400 Watts of solar panels out in the yard.
Jerry, KE7ER




Re: Question about power to raduino

 

Yup. ?So power goes into one terminal of the switch on the volume control from that outside connector, and power goes from the other terminal of that switch to the three places where power is needed: Raduino, PA-Power, Main-Power. ? And all three of those places have ground returns to outside connector. ?(And I don't have mine yet either)


That wire-up page needs a proof-reader.


Re: Question about power to raduino

 

My unit hasn't arrived yet, but the instructions on the BITX site say:

Solder the orange wire to the DC power switch on the volume control

Sooo, there's a switch on the volume control, one side of that switch has to have the power input and the other side is the switched power, use a meter and to find the switched terminal, then hook your orange wire there.


Re: Battery recommendation...with external amp

Jack Purdum
 

Marco:

I don't know how "portable" you need to be, but I've used a 10W panel with my Forty-9er and it worked well. I was given a 7AH motorcycle battery, so that's what I used. I don't use it a lot, but when I have, it worked fine. As I recall, the panel is about 17"x10" and weighed about 3.5lbs. I also used a cheap ($10) solar panel charge regulator with the setup. I kept all of the electronics and battery in a toolbox. (I had an Arduino controlled stepper motor that adjusted the panel throughout the day so it always faced the sun. You can see it in the Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio book.)

Jerry's suggestion for a different battery makes sense and may be cheaper in the long run.

Jack, W8TEE



From: M Garza <mgarza896@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2017 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Battery recommendation...with external amp

Jerry,
WOW.? Completely off grid.? Nice.
I guess I need to investigate better batteries (NI-MH maybe?) and solar/wind power.? I live near the coast, in S. Texas.? Plenty of sun and wind. ?

Marco - KG5PRT


On Jan 22, 2017 9:28 PM, "Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io" <jgaffke=[email protected]> wrote:
That battery should have 12v*7AH = 84 Watt-Hours of power in it.? Will take at least 84/1.5 = 56 hours of full sunlight perpendicular to the panel to recharge the battery.? Assuming the rig is 6 Watts at 50% efficiency (so draws 12 Watts), could run the rig for 84/12 = 7 hours of continuous transmitting, perhaps 10 times that for just receive.? Could deal with your 30 Watt amp as well, for a while.
A starting battery like that is built for occasional high current draw for a few seconds.? They are not built to be repeatedly discharged.? So the lead plates are more of a lead foam, for maximum surface area, and disintegrate after the battery is discharged a few times.? Avoid discharging below 11v or so, and always charge it back up as soon as possible to avoid sulfation. The motorcycle battery will get you started but will wear out with use.? There are deep-cycle lead acid batteries built to be discharged 1000 times, that is not one of them.? A lithium-ion battery pack might be a better choice long term. ? I doubt that panel will be worth the bother, though when the sun is out it should at least keep up with the Bitx40 receive current draw.
All near and dear to my heart.? We're fully off grid, running from an 18 KWh deep cycle lead acid battery bank in the basement and 4400 Watts of solar panels out in the yard.
Jerry, KE7ER




Question about power to raduino

James Gardner
 

Hi. This is my first attempt at trying a kit of any kind and I have a question that is probably extremely simple to those who are used to kit building. I ordered and received this Bitx40. The other day I finally got some free time and tried my hand at putting it all together. I've got everything together except the power for the raduino. Instructions say to wire the orange wire to the the power/volume control but this is not giving me power to the raduino. Both rig and pa power is wired to the power input connector and the rig itself turns on and off as it should. Wiring orange wire straight to power input connector does not allow the raduino to turn off by turning rig off. I have tried attaching the orange wire to different pins on the power/volume control with no luck. What am I missing?


Re: I was able to compile the BITX40 code

 

Andy -

Since I'm waiting on my BITX40, I decided to play with the raduino sketch.

I installed the most recent Si5351 library (Etherkit_Si5351-2.0.1).

I followed your advice and searched for the instances of set_freq and deleted the middle term (there were four instances), however when I compiled I still got an error.

I referenced the library change log and found this:

"The init() method now has three parameters: the crystal load capacitance, the reference frequency, and the frequency correction value (with this last parameter being a new addition). You'll need to add that third parameter to your old init() calls, but then you can delete any set_correction() calls after that (unless you explicitly are changing the frequency correction after the initialization)."

And the init call was indeed the compile error.? I added a 0 as the third parameter and now the code compiles with the new library, though I'm as of yet unable to test it.

I have uploaded the sketch to the KA0NEB File Folder, along with a compiled hex for those who wish to forgo library installation and compiling and would rather just load it with XLoader.

Steve, KA0NEB


New file uploaded to [email protected]

[email protected] Notification
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

File: Raduino_V1_1.zip

Uploaded By: Steve Robertson

Description:
This is the initial release of the raduino BITX40 sketch that's been modified to work with the Etherkit_Si5351-2.0.1 library. it is untested as my unit has not arrived yet. I have included the compiled hex file if you wish to forgo library installation and compiling and would rather just use XLoader to load the hex directly to the Arduino Nano.

You can access this file at the URL:
/g/BITX20/files/KA0NEB/Raduino_V1_1.zip

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team


Re: Battery recommendation...with external amp

M Garza
 

Jerry,
WOW.? Completely off grid.? Nice.
I guess I need to investigate better batteries (NI-MH maybe?) and solar/wind power.? I live near the coast, in S. Texas.? Plenty of sun and wind. ?

Marco - KG5PRT


On Jan 22, 2017 9:28 PM, "Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io" <jgaffke=[email protected]> wrote:

That battery should have 12v*7AH = 84 Watt-Hours of power in it.? Will take at least 84/1.5 = 56 hours of full sunlight perpendicular to the panel to recharge the battery.? Assuming the rig is 6 Watts at 50% efficiency (so draws 12 Watts), could run the rig for 84/12 = 7 hours of continuous transmitting, perhaps 10 times that for just receive.? Could deal with your 30 Watt amp as well, for a while.

A starting battery like that is built for occasional high current draw for a few seconds.? They are not built to be repeatedly discharged.? So the lead plates are more of a lead foam, for maximum surface area, and disintegrate after the battery is discharged a few times.? Avoid discharging below 11v or so, and always charge it back up as soon as possible to avoid sulfation. The motorcycle battery will get you started but will wear out with use.? There are deep-cycle lead acid batteries built to be discharged 1000 times, that is not one of them.? A lithium-ion battery pack might be a better choice long term. ? I doubt that panel will be worth the bother, though when the sun is out it should at least keep up with the Bitx40 receive current draw.

All near and dear to my heart.? We're fully off grid, running from an 18 KWh deep cycle lead acid battery bank in the basement and 4400 Watts of solar panels out in the yard.

Jerry, KE7ER