I don¡¯t understand, this is exactly what I was saying. If I can claim the loss under the purchase protection provisions of the credit card on which I made the purchase, which I can (not is it unethical to do so as this is exactly what the insurance is intended to cover), why would I not do that and buy another? From the supplier¡¯s side, they only see two purchase transaction. This insurance benefit has no impact on the vendor other than doubling its sales to me. This is part of the reason I pay $450 per year for this particular credit card.
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Gus
I will join the chorus of those suggesting this is a different kind of transaction. A large portion of the kit is parts, some to ladies who wound the toroids, and others who guided automated assembly. They need this work to make ends meet. Meanwhile a worldwide crew can help if you have a DVM available.? Most of us have experienced build issues, just hang in there.
Or see if your insurance will buy another one.
Curt
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Thank you Lawrence and noted. ?I don¡¯t think it will resolve the issue of no signals at all which is what was troubling me the most.
Regards?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Sep 2019, at 8:56 pm, Lawrence Galea < 9h1avlaw@...> wrote: P.s. there are a lot of wires bunched up and crossing over the pcb As they presently are you will get a lot of RF pick up and feedback to the components and earlier stages on the pcb.??
They should be run on the bottom and the front/back panel as near to the metal as possible and clamped so as not to move. Also not running/crossing under the pcb but near the edges.
Regards Lawrence On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 5:33 PM Lawrence Galea via Groups.Io <9h1avlaw= [email protected]> wrote: Use your signal generator to inject the appropriate frequency into the mixer instead of the DDS and see whether you receive a signal. If you receive any signal that eliminates a faulty DDS.
After that start checking from the AF amplifier working your way to the antenna. Regards Lawrence
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
Roger
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30¡¯ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I¡¯m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71772/)
?
|
Hi!
I think some credit cards offer protection for things like, "Oops I dropped my phone and it broke!" type accidents, and they don't seek money from the vendor, but just cover the cost with profit from their card fees.? So maybe something like Gus' accident would be covered too!
But don't toss it Gus as I'm sure someone in the group would offer you something for it!
73,
Mark.
|
It¡¯s totally ethical. If you understand the purchase benefit of certain credit cards, this is exactly the type of incident that purchase protection covers. It would be idiotic to not take advantage of the benefits available. That¡¯s like saying it¡¯s unethical to reject insurance coverage for an accident for which you are at fault. Insurance is EXACTLY intended and designed to cover precisely that scenario.?
|
P.s. there are a lot of wires bunched up and crossing over the pcb As they presently are you will get a lot of RF pick up and feedback to the components and earlier stages on the pcb.??
They should be run on the bottom and the front/back panel as near to the metal as possible and clamped so as not to move. Also not running/crossing under the pcb but near the edges.
Regards Lawrence
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 5:33 PM Lawrence Galea via Groups.Io <9h1avlaw= [email protected]> wrote: Use your signal generator to inject the appropriate frequency into the mixer instead of the DDS and see whether you receive a signal. If you receive any signal that eliminates a faulty DDS.
After that start checking from the AF amplifier working your way to the antenna. Regards Lawrence
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
Roger
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30¡¯ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I¡¯m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71769/)
?
|
Evan, I am testing with a dummy. It sounds like there is a lose ground somewhere but I just can¡¯t figure out where.
The issue started when finnishing the enclosure. I did test the board on arrival and can¡¯t recall this issue.?
73 Werner?
|
You might be getting RF back into the radio.? Does it happen into a dummy load?
73
Evan
AC9TU
|
Forgot to say, I check my signal with my other rig.
|
I have the V5 uBITX. All seems to be okay but in TX I get a big hum. The issue is even worse when keying. I disconnected the mic so that can't be an issue. Replaced the powersuppy also, that doesn't help. When I touch the heatsinks of the irf510 it get worse.
It looks like a ground loop issue but even with nothing connected the hum is there.
RX is perfect.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Werner pa3gyv
|
There are lots of SSB transceiver kits out there.
The uBitx has its warts, but it works well enough and packs a lot of features for the price.
If it was possible to stay in business at a significantly lower price, there would be a dozen
such products available on ebay/alibaba/...
It's a totally open design.
Anybody who thinks they can make money by kitting these up for less
can go ahead and give it a try.? Don't have to know anything about design,
just how to copy.? And how to deal with the occasional ornery customer.
Good luck with that!
Jerry, KE7ER
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Show quoted text
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 10:32 AM, Sudanthiram N wrote:
At these prices hfsignals is not making much of a profit per unit.
I can not agree this. No seller can not do business without much profit. Please note HF signal never refund? .(I think)
Thanks and regards
Sudanthiram
VU2NSK
|
At these prices hfsignals is not making much of a profit per unit.I can not agree this. No seller can not do business without much profit. Please note HF signal never refund? .(I think) Thanks and regards Sudanthiram VU2NSK
On Sun, 8 Sep 2019, 9:59 pm Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io, <jgaffke= [email protected]> wrote: Hmm, if your credit card company is willing to insure you when building a kit like this,
that's ok with me I suppose.? Seems unlikely.
I doubt anybody (you or the card company) will be getting a refund from hfsignals.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 09:26 AM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
That strikes me as unethical.
|
Hmm, if your credit card company is willing to insure you when building a kit like this,
that's ok with me I suppose.? Seems unlikely.
I doubt anybody (you or the card company) will be getting a refund from hfsignals.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 09:26 AM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
That strikes me as unethical.
|
Hi Roger,
Use your scope to determine if the DDS is producing a signal at the DDS connection on the DDS board. Also check to make sure there is a signal at the DDS connection on the main board. I remember that the colors didn't exactly match up and were a bit confusing at first.
Paul
KL7FLR
|
That strikes me as unethical.
You received a kit product, and damaged it by not following the instructions.
Generally, when buying a kit from most any vendor that you put together,
you don't get a refund when you screw up.
At these prices hfsignals is not making much of a profit per unit.
They can't afford to go along with that sort of thing.
And I doubt they will.
Unless you agree to pay a $129 "shipping and handling fee".? ;-)
Which may not be a bad option if this thing really got trashed.
Jerry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 08:39 AM, <gustav316@...> wrote:
Luckily I purchased everything on a card with purchase protection that covers damage to products within 120 days of purchase, so I may just submit a claim and repurchase the kit new. Kind of the unsophisticated way out, but I probably do not have the experience necessary to diagnose and repair the radio. I¡¯ll check these items and see if I can¡¯t get it working, but I may just chalk this up as a loss. Thank you for the educated insight on the issue - very much appreciated!
best,
Gus
W9SSN
|
He can do the smell test for the vol control or the physical test as most probably if part of the vol control was burned?out he will fell it as he turns the control. He can also check with a multimeter but the first two are good indicators. Regards Lawrence
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 5:14 AM Evan Hand < elhandjr@...> wrote: After I posted my replay, I read Jerry's recommendations.? I like the second receiver test for the BFO to verify that the Raduino RF section is working.? I will need to remember that for future references.? You can do that when powered by the USB connection as the Si5351a runs off of the 3.3v rail that comes from the Nano.
Another possibility for the source of the smell is it came from the volume control.? If you truly put 12v across it, and the wiper was close to one of the ends, you could have smoked it.? Since the resistor is behind a metal case, you may not see it without close inspection.? Run a resistance check on it as well.
73
Evan
AC9TU
|
Luckily I purchased everything on a card with purchase protection that covers damage to products within 120 days of purchase, so I may just submit a claim and repurchase the kit new. Kind of the unsophisticated way out, but I probably do not have the experience necessary to diagnose and repair the radio. I¡¯ll check these items and see if I can¡¯t get it working, but I may just chalk this up as a loss. Thank you for the educated insight on the issue - very much appreciated!
best,
Gus
W9SSN
|
Use your signal generator to inject the appropriate frequency into the mixer instead of the DDS and see whether you receive a signal. If you receive any signal that eliminates a faulty DDS.
After that start checking from the AF amplifier working your way to the antenna. Regards Lawrence
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
Roger
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30¡¯ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I¡¯m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71757/)
?
|
Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Sep 2019, at 2:43 pm, Raj vu2zap < rajendrakumargg@...> wrote:
Roger,
Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize
radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.
Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.
All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.
Raj
At 08-09-19, you wrote:
Thank you Vic.? The antenna
is a 30¡¯ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several
aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the
tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does
indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say
is a design feature.
All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk
through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which
ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections
necessary to get a signal that I¡¯m thinking that the DDS board is
faulty.
Picture of unit below.
Roger
On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic
WA4THR via Groups.Io
<
vhklein@...> wrote:
The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot
rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning
range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is
the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning.
Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are
typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be
largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your
liking.
So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna
do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you
tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?
=Vic=
![[]](/g/BITX20/attachment/71756/)
?
|
Re: BitX HW-16: full break-in high power ri
Ah, what the heck.
Topics are for veering off of.
No money back then, Heathkit was too expensive.
Was working with old TV parts and discarded WWII surplus (ARC-5's).
But I spent many hours digging through Heathkit catalogs.
These new kits are relatively expensive compared to stuff like the nanoVNA, but the website is persuasive.
I've got $100 bucks now.
And a thorough dislike for all the clocks I've bought in the last 20 years.
I hope they can get back into ham gear.
Jerry, KE7ER
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On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 06:24 AM, Don--AE4DW wrote:
Trying not to veer too far off topic, but I remember seeing that resurected heathkit site several years ago, before they had any products to offer. It does look like they got it off the ground.
As another of those hams who started their operating experience with an HW-16 (circa 1976), and then upgraded to an HW-101, I still, to this day, appreciate what Heath stood for eons ago.
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PA3GYV - Werner