Re: ubitx code version 4.3 for review, testing
Neophyte question: The code is in several files. May different files be merged into the Arduino IDE as desired?
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Re: I need a V3 or V4 uBitx board.
Tried again to post to kd1jvdesigns.
This time I noticed a "Your message will be sent when it's approved by the moderators"
at the top of the webpage after submitting the post.
So kd1jvdesigns is configured a bit different than this bitx20 group,?
though they are both hosted by groups.io.
I tried voting again, this time from the individual message webpage of post #161.
My vote was added immediately without review.
Steve? doesn't often respond to email.
But seemed odd he wasn't responding when he apparently still had a few boards to sell.
Perhaps he had a bunch of promises, but was waiting till the checks arrived.
I've bought 4 other KD1JV kits, first one in 2006.
They were all winners.
Manuals are very good, my only criticism is that schematics seldom quite agree with the board you get.
Steve seems to edit the design within his board layout program, then draw up the schematics without a netlist check.
Used to be he coded exclusively in assembly language, and I seldom find it worth the bother?
to get my head into somebody else's assembly code.? Or my own.
Steve has recently taken up residence in ArduinoLand, the Slop Bucket is coded in C.?
To bring this discussion around to some sort of Bitx relevance:
The Slop Bucket is comparable to the Bitx40, is a single band SSB/CW transceiver at 7W,
offered at a comparable price.? ?It's a full on surface mount kit using lots of 0805's and Sot23's.
You get to solder down your very own Si5351, wind your own toroids.
Jerry, KE7ER
?
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On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 02:34 pm, Roy Appleton wrote:
Jerry, don't get too excited, between projects he often goes on extended hikes. He may be gone for a couple of weeks.
?
?
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Re: RFI from uBitx TX after AGC and other mods installed
FB Alan! Got my fingers crossed. -Don
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Re: RFI from uBitx TX after AGC and other mods installed
Don: I am referring to the AGC. My next step is to run shielded cable instead of a twisted pair between the volume control terminals and the the AGC board.
Alan
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Re: RFI from uBitx TX after AGC and other mods installed
Rowland,
With the AGC board mounted so far from the volume control (and right near the high RF area) it might be best to run shielded cable instead of just twisted pair. Some RG174 or similar small cable (impedance unimportant) might be the answer. I think that you may have found it! Or at least one of 'em.
The two others with problems were also using that spot! That is something that I had not considered. My builds are all right on the front panel, just a couple of inches for the audio run. -Don
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Re: RFI from uBitx TX after AGC and other mods installed
Hi Don - thanks for your speedy assistance.
To be clear - what I am hearing when I transmit SSB is RFI - loud garbled sounds from the speaker or headphones, not a clear rendition of my voice.
The offender seems to be the wiring to the volume control (audio).? If I unplug the audio pot from the audio pins on the board, the RFI goes away.? I am using a twisted pair from the pot to header pins on the AGC board.
With the pot connected, the RFI is heard when I transmit into a dummy load or an antenna, no difference.
Independent of the RFI, I noticed my use of J1 to drive the S-meter was giving a reading of zero.? I checked the voltage on J1 (with everything hooked up to the AGC board) and it never deviates from zero, so I must have a problem with the AGC board.? This happens even if I disconnect my AGC off/med/long switch and just check the voltage at J1 - it's zero regardless of signal level.??
So I think I have (at least) two problems - RF being picked up by the cable going to the volume control pot, and something wrong with my assembly of the AGC board so there is no voltage across C4.
I'll see if I can re-route the audio cable - I was trying to keep it on the short side so it is routed across the board, not along the case as you recommend.? I'll try that.
I do have a second AGC kit so I can try assembling that and see if my "no voltage across C4" issue goes away.
73,
Rowland K4XD
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I had to replace mine twice due to letting the wrong wires touch.
I used one of the hot air rework stations that can be found on ebay for about $ 60 including shipping.??
Just use the hot air wand and the nano comes right out.? I did have to heat some of the holes and use a solder sucker on them to get all the solder out.
On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 4:31 PM, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> wrote:
On 06/24/2018 12:22 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote:
The Nano is tough to remove, if it comes to that.
I'd try a little rotary saw or grinder using my Dremel tool for all but
the pins hiding
behind the LCD connector, then heat up those few pins on the Nano board
to pull it free.
And then extract all the pins one-by-one from the Raduino.
And take care to wash all the metal bits from the Raduino.
If anybody has a better method, perhaps they could speak up.
It seems the easiest method I've heard anyone use I refer to as the RCA method.? It's what the techs at the RCA service centers used when they had to replace modules on the TacTec hand helds.
Cut the part out, in this case the nano, then remove the pins one at a time.
Vince - K8ZW.
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Re: Keypad for Raduino...?
DuWayne
Might work fine but one of my objectives is to reduce parts count to just what is
necessary for the functionality I want.
That is what drove me to using just one ADC input for the keypad.
Arv
_._
On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 3:26 PM DuWayne Schmidlkofer < duwayne@...> wrote: One of the easiest ways to do this might be to use a I2C expander
configured something like this board from Microchip
You could control the keyboard and display over I2C and free up the
existing display pins for other uses.
--
DuWayne? KV4QB
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Re: RFI from uBitx TX after AGC and other mods installed
I am a bit overwhelmed, perhaps. Alan, are you referring to the AGC board, not the "Click eliminator"? I'm not finding where Kees posted any photos of mounting the click eliminator. That would be the board that I would expect to cause the problem (if the receive audio gate was always on). The AGC board (the one that plugs into the receive RF trace) would have the devil's own time passing microphone audio into the speaker.
Mark, your observations may really help Alan and I understand what's going on. I doubt that you caused any problem on the board by running the +5 volts to ground. The Raduino regulator would have been stressed but seem to remember the 7805 has a? thermal foldback feature for short duration faults. You may, however, try removing that +5 ground lead, I don't know where you ran that from but it shouldn't be necessary and inserts another unknown variable into the mix for me.
The volume control connection, however, is essential. The high side should NOT be connected to the wiper. Aside from swapped leads, about the only thing that I can think of is improper grounding. If anyone is using a plastic panel or case they need to go to extra lengths to provide short and solid ground returns. This is especially important where large signals or currents are present. The antenna RF connector needs to have its own additional ground back to the BITX board connection, not relying upon the panel or chassis. Same goes with the speaker and headphone jacks. The AGC and RF manual gain control should have the best grounding possible with connections to the BITX ground plane.
Aside from that, I'm out of ideas for now. What did you find Mark? -Don
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Programming Issues and Questions
I am integrating my uBitx into an old HA 350 receiver? chassis. It has a band switch on it, so I want to program A7 to read the switch. I downloaded several different versions of code to find a good starting point. When I use any of Farhan's versions, I get a compile error:?
return-statement with no value, in function returning 'int' [-fpermissive]
?
It is a return in ubitx_menu in the if(!btn) statement that causes this.
I tried Ron, W2CTX's ubitx_V2_00R and i see what looks like coding errors, although it compiles. The error is that A7 is not declared, and digital dash is declared as A3. A3 is PTT
KD8CEC's uBitx_20 compiles.?
Any input on which code is best would be appreciated. I would also like to know how to fix the compiling error so I can reinstall the factory code if I need to.
Thanks,
Howard
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In case anyone sees a similar issue, I took me a bit of head scratching to figure out what it was.? Add to that the random nature of it, more than one cup of coffee was consumed. Either K1 or K3 has bad/dirty contacts on it making the switch from XMT to RCV..? Keying the mic or key transmit to get the relays to cycle (sometimes takes more than once), fixes the problem by getting the contacts to close fully.? Unfortunately I'll have to wait until it misbehaves again, and then manually force each relay to cycle independently to figure out which needs replacement. Not looking forward to desoldering... (pic attached) 
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Re: I need a V3 or V4 uBitx board.
Jerry, don't get too excited, between projects he often goes on extended hikes. He may be gone for a couple of weeks.
Roy WA0YMH
On Sun, Jun 24, 2018, 4:29 PM Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke= [email protected]> wrote: Well, I tried to jump in.
Clicked the 40M option on his poll, no response.
Clicked VoteNow, and it said ThankYouForVoting, but still not in the list an a couple hours later.
Tried posting to the [email protected], clicked the green ReplyToGroup button, looked good,
except still not seeing it on the website an hour later.
Had sent email to Steve a few weeks ago when he said he had 10 remaining from the previous run,
never got a reply.
Well, I now see that the poll shows up a bit different in my browser if I click on the individual message
rather than try to vote using the web interface into the the "messages" page.
? ??/g/kd1jvdesigns/message/161
But I'm not so sure I want to promise to buy one if I can't communicate with him.
Could be some of this explains why Steve's not sure there's enough interest to do another run.?
Jerry
On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 10:56 am, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
I think is your best bet.
Steve has a poll going now, asking if there is interest in a new run of boards.
If you want one you should join the group and respond to that.
I may jump in there as well.
If and when he does decide to create more kits, he will post a message to the group
with instructions on how to order.? Not sure how that happens now, but his CW rigs
sold out fast and you had to respond within a few hours.
Steve did maintain a website in the past:??
but that has not been updated in years.
He's more interested in building radios than being a webmaster.
Jerry
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Re: I need a V3 or V4 uBitx board.
Well, I tried to jump in. Clicked the 40M option on his poll, no response. Clicked VoteNow, and it said ThankYouForVoting, but still not in the list an a couple hours later. Tried posting to the [email protected], clicked the green ReplyToGroup button, looked good, except still not seeing it on the website an hour later. Had sent email to Steve a few weeks ago when he said he had 10 remaining from the previous run, never got a reply. Well, I now see that the poll shows up a bit different in my browser if I click on the individual message rather than try to vote using the web interface into the the "messages" page. ? ?? /g/kd1jvdesigns/message/161But I'm not so sure I want to promise to buy one if I can't communicate with him. Could be some of this explains why Steve's not sure there's enough interest to do another run.? Jerry
On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 10:56 am, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
I think groups.io is your best bet.
Steve has a poll going now, asking if there is interest in a new run of boards.
If you want one you should join the group and respond to that.
I may jump in there as well.
If and when he does decide to create more kits, he will post a message to the group
with instructions on how to order.? Not sure how that happens now, but his CW rigs
sold out fast and you had to respond within a few hours.
Steve did maintain a website in the past:??
but that has not been updated in years.
He's more interested in building radios than being a webmaster.
Jerry
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Re: Keypad for Raduino...?
One of the easiest ways to do this might be to use a I2C expander configured something like this board from Microchip
You could control the keyboard and display over I2C and free up the existing display pins for other uses.
--
DuWayne? KV4QB
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Re: RFI from uBitx TX after AGC and other mods installed
I have exactly the same situation with mine. I hear my voice loud & clear from the speaker, it's like a PA system.
It's Kees' kit installed like the photos...a three pin header, center to ground. The ground pin shows 0 ohm to ground with the board removed. I don't have the RF pot installed, just the jumper. When I remove the board and jumper the outer pins the radio works normally, no audio from the speaker on xmit. With the board in place, disconnecting the 5v stops the speaker audio.
I'm not sure the S meter driver is working either, I get less than 2 v even on a really strong BCB signal.
I'm afraid I might have reverse powered the board the first time I powered it up...the 5V marking was a little confusing, I think there was a thread about that here a while ago. It was not installed at that time, just hanging in mid air with the power & audio & s meter connections...I wanted to see if the S meter worked. I don't imagine that would have done it any good.
I have a borrowed scope so I can do some checking with that.
I also have a second kit that I haven't assembled yet. I might try it & see if it's any different (being careful with the power polarity).
Any advice will be appreciated.
Mark... AA7TA
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On 6/24/18 1:18 PM, alans77 via Groups.Io wrote: Don: I have a similar problem only I have not installed the RF gain control. On SSB phone transmit my voice comes out of the speaker loud and clear. I find it strange the audio amp / speaker are not muted when transmitting.
73 ,
Alan
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The transmit LPF filter relays only get energized when transmitting.
There is no such band switching required when receiving.
>? My unit came with firmware version 0.2! :(
>? Why is there such a low revision in it- just to get it working???
A very easy fix for that, let's ask hfsignals to rename it version 200.
The KD8CEC firmware is well regarded.
??
Jerry
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On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 02:03 pm, <mtrager1@...> wrote:
Should I hear relays switching when the band is changed via the encoder?
The band switching function doesn't seem to be working either.....?? because it's?? FW 0.2?
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Re: Keypad for Raduino...?
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On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 3:05 PM Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke= [email protected]> wrote: I've got a black dial phone from perhaps the 40's. in the basement somewhere.
That would be very cool to have as the UI into my uBitx.
Won't want to get just too aggressive with the debouce.
On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 01:58 pm, Arv Evans wrote:
But......I thought this problem WAS a nail!? 8-)
I did try 4 different keypads that have resided in my junkbox long enough to have
accumulated some dust and maybe even corrosion.? You are right, one of them (an
escapee from a long dead calculator) did show intermittent decoding, but after a bit
of exercise it now seems more reliable.? I built the initial resistor matrix external to
the keypad so I can try different keypads.? Maybe it would be worthwhile to try
making a discrete switch based keypad from 16 of the tiny push-switches that are
available for less than a cent each on Ebay??
Long ago I purchased a few keypads which have plastic domes that click over-center
and make hard mechanical closures (with lots of contact bounce).? If I can find them
they will get tried in the present testbed.? Might be interesting to see what is required
to debounce those antiques.?
?
Being an ancient telephone engineer the concept of "sealing current" comes to mind
as a possibility for use based improvement of questionable keypads.? Another option
is that they are usually very inexpensive and thus the bad ones can be trashed with
no regrets.?
This is fun!? 8-)
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Re: Keypad for Raduino...?
I've got a black dial phone from perhaps the 40's. in the basement somewhere.
That would be very cool to have as the UI into my uBitx.
Won't want to get just too aggressive with the debouce.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 01:58 pm, Arv Evans wrote:
But......I thought this problem WAS a nail!? 8-)
I did try 4 different keypads that have resided in my junkbox long enough to have
accumulated some dust and maybe even corrosion.? You are right, one of them (an
escapee from a long dead calculator) did show intermittent decoding, but after a bit
of exercise it now seems more reliable.? I built the initial resistor matrix external to
the keypad so I can try different keypads.? Maybe it would be worthwhile to try
making a discrete switch based keypad from 16 of the tiny push-switches that are
available for less than a cent each on Ebay??
Long ago I purchased a few keypads which have plastic domes that click over-center
and make hard mechanical closures (with lots of contact bounce).? If I can find them
they will get tried in the present testbed.? Might be interesting to see what is required
to debounce those antiques.?
?
Being an ancient telephone engineer the concept of "sealing current" comes to mind
as a possibility for use based improvement of questionable keypads.? Another option
is that they are usually very inexpensive and thus the bad ones can be trashed with
no regrets.?
This is fun!? 8-)
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Oh I forgot....
Should I hear relays switching when the band is changed via the encoder?
The band switching function doesn't seem to be working either.....?? because it's?? FW 0.2?
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My unit came with firmware version 0.2! :(
Why is there such a low revision in it- just to get it working???
What is the best firmware available for it today and where can I find it?
I tried adjusting the calibration and BFO and that wasn't very much help!
Thank you,
Michael, n2zdb
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Craig Wadsworth
Don, ND6T
atouk
DuWayne Schmidlkofer