Re: Another protection diode is required
I have that diode on
all my RaduinoX boards.? The other thing, I have left the 12V
on my test fixture on many times while programming with the
USB (by Mistake).? I have been Lucky.?? I? know the rule is
not to have two 5 V supplies going!
I have never blow a
Nano so far.
Mike, Lucky
On 11/6/2017 2:49 AM, Raj vu2zap wrote:
Folks,
This morning I was working on a bitx with raduino. While connected to the PC for uploading a sketch I noticed
the board was still receiving a station albeit at a lower volume. Then it occurred to me that 5V from USB
was flowing back to main board. This reverse flow through the 7805 can damage it and fry the raduino.
Put a 1N400x or similar from the main board 12V wire with the "arrow" towards the raduino.
Anode to main board -> cathode to raduino or the line bar on the diode towards the raduino.
This will not be required if you are not going to update your sketches.
Cheers
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
My rule, for 12v I will use a 12K resistor for LEDs.
Considering todays LEDs brightness I must increase that value.
At 06-11-2017, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Using 680 ohms will really make the LED
bright.?? I = (12V - 3.3V ) / 680.?? Most work real nice on
just a few ma.?? 2.2K should give nearly 5 ma.?? What folks are
saying is an LED is not "operated" or "biased" with
voltage.?? You put a current thru them, and the voltage is just a
result.?? You get what you get!
The current limit resistor is picked
for how bight you desire it to be.? ?? The 3.3V spec will be the
approximate voltage drop at a given current.
If you were running on a battery, you
might try only 1 or 2 ma.
Just a thought, most take 20 ma.
OK.?? For an experiment, try 10K and then 1K???
Mike, WA6ISP
|
Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst) Rotary Encoder Version?
I did that on an old
(1.09) Allard Version.? I made a tuning function with the same
name as he has.
I can switch back and
forth with the conditional assembly.
It works but I don't
get any of the functions with the Push Button that use some
other functions that involve the pot.
Like Calibration and
such.? So it is a hack, in needing of lots of attention to get
the options with the Push Button.
I moved the frequency
change directly into the interrupt, I seemed at the time to
have to much lag setting and reading an interrupt flag?
Still sometimes it
seems to jump 2 steps when I tune.? I got pull-ups and 0.01uf
de-bounce on the encoder.? Since the encoder
has resistors and my
RaduinoX has them, I need to experiment with them at a higher
value.? I think it is 10K in both place, meaning 5K pull-ups.?
I may take them completely off or go up on the caps.? I use it
for now.? I also have NO dynamic step changes.? The encoder
bump switch sets 4 levels of steps.? I have it boot up at 1
KHz?? I know Jack has some fancy code for that.
Mike, WA6ISP
On 11/6/2017 5:23 AM, Michael Babineau
wrote:
Allard :?
The only way I could see that you could cram in support for an
encoder for tuning would be via conditional compilation.?
i.e. something like :?
#if defined (ENCODER_TUNING)
? ?// code for encoder ?
#else
? // code for tuning pot?
Since you either use the pot or an encoder for tuning, not both,
?this would potentially work ?but it has the disadvantage of
cluttering the code up
and making it a bit more convoluted.?
The default could remain as tuning pot to maintain compatibility.
Anyone wanting to use an encoder would need to?
uncomment a define for ENCODER_TUNING (or whatever you would call
it) so that code is compiled and used instead.?
Cheers
Michael VE3WMB?
P.S. My idea doesn't consider the necessary pin assignments needed
for the encoder and the encoder switch, which might conflict with?
existing PIN usage on the Nano. Since this might involve PIN
reassignments, my suggestion would be to defer any?consideration
for this
until Raduino V2.?
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst)
Allard :?
The only way I could see that you could cram in support for an encoder for tuning would be via conditional compilation.?
i.e. something like :?
#if defined (ENCODER_TUNING)
? ?// code for encoder ?
#else
? // code for tuning pot?
Since you either use the pot or an encoder for tuning, not both, ?this would potentially work ?but it has the disadvantage of cluttering the code up
and making it a bit more convoluted.?
The default could remain as tuning pot to maintain compatibility. Anyone wanting to use an encoder would need to?
uncomment a define for ENCODER_TUNING (or whatever you would call it) so that code is compiled and used instead.?
Cheers
Michael VE3WMB?
P.S. My idea doesn't consider the necessary pin assignments needed for the encoder and the encoder switch, which might conflict with?
existing PIN usage on the Nano. Since this might involve PIN reassignments, my suggestion would be to defer any?consideration for this
until Raduino V2.?
|
BITX40 build for SOTA/POTA operation
I posted this question to another forum and didn't get much support for the idea, so I figure I'll ask here:
"I'd like to get involved with some of the OTA groups -- Michigan's three year Parks On the Air, etc. I have ideas for my mobile station in my VW camper, but I'd like to put together something I can use when hiking etc. Here's what I am thinking.
Make a BITX40 in a Pelican case like this:?
For an antenna either buy or clone a packtenna:?
My only concern is being limited to 40m. I haven't had my ticket long, but so far it does seem like 40 does get activity during the day around here (which is when I'd be using the mobile setup).
Workable OTA contesting pack rig or should I think about another radio?"
I should have added that I am learning CW, so phone operation is important for the time being anyway.
Thanks for your input!
Joe
|
Another protection diode is required
Folks,
This morning I was working on a bitx with raduino. While connected to the PC for uploading a sketch I noticed
the board was still receiving a station albeit at a lower volume. Then it occurred to me that 5V from USB
was flowing back to main board. This reverse flow through the 7805 can damage it and fry the raduino.
Put a 1N400x or similar from the main board 12V wire with the "arrow" towards the raduino.
Anode to main board -> cathode to raduino or the line bar on the diode towards the raduino.
This will not be required if you are not going to update your sketches.
Cheers
--
Raj, vu2zap
Bengaluru, South India.
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 1:55 PM, Mvs Sarma <mvssarma@...> wrote: just for indication.
?at 12V you better use 4K7 regards ?sarma ?vu3zmv
-- Md Sofiullah
Assist. Manager
Pulse e Technologies Pvt. Ltd,
222, Phase-IV, Udyog Vihar,
Gurgaon-122015, Haryana
Cell: +91 9811842473
???????? +91 9654698929
|
Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst)
Hi,
I discovered a bug that the carrier burst is still not properly suppressed in CW-SPLIT mode. Normal (non-SPLIT) mode works OK.
I'll correct that soon.
73 Allard PE1NWL
|
Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst)
On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 06:57 pm, Dexter N Muir wrote:
Would that be a different series/'branch' of code?
Yes it would. One of?my most important design criteria for the Raduino code is that it shall always work, even on a standard unmodified BitX40 (which uses?Ashhar Farhan's?tuning concept based on a potentiometer). Theoretically we could?create code supporting both concepts (tuning pot as well as encoder), allowing the user to choose. However, given the limited program space in the Arduino Nano, this?seems practically impossible. 73 Allard PE1NWL
|
Hi,
I think, You need to solder and test pcb's for transceivers, before publish them.
73!LZ1DPN
On Saturday, November 4, 2017, 2:34:42 AM GMT+2, Juan Carlos Berberena Glez <cubanqrp@...> wrote:
It is my idea to conforming a modular rig. My design requirement: Main board have to be < 100 x 100 mm to use a PCb manufacturer discount as a prototype. All the module have to be the same size interchangeable over the main board for experimenter or for teaching uses. The main board would be assembly as a regular rig or will be assembly separate with each module. The relay and the Qrp PA will be in other module with the option to snap in to the main board. At this time the main board is empty, but It will be completed with all the modules for the regular use as a Qrp exciter. Please any comment will be appreciate to improve the design idea.
Qrv's, 73's
Mr.Juan Carlos Berberena Glez BSc.
WJ6C ex/CO6BG
¡°If you have a penny and I have a penny and we exchange pennies, you still have one cent and I still have one cent.? But if you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange ideas, you now have two ideas and I now have two ideas.¡±?
|
just for indication.
?at 12V you better use 4K7 regards ?sarma ?vu3zmv
On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 1:42 PM, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:
Using 680 ohms will
really make the LED bright.? I = (12V - 3.3V ) / 680.? Most
work real nice on just a few ma.? 2.2K should give nearly 5
ma.? What folks are saying is an LED is not "operated" or
"biased" with voltage.? You put a current thru them, and the
voltage is just a result.? You get what you get!
The current limit
resistor is picked for how bight you desire it to be.?? The
3.3V spec will be the approximate voltage drop at a given
current.
If you were running on
a battery, you might try only 1 or 2 ma.
Just a thought, most
take 20 ma. OK.? For an experiment, try 10K and then 1K??
Mike, WA6ISP
On 11/5/2017 9:52 PM, Prathap Naidu
wrote:
You
can use a dual color LED with 3 leads, centre is common gnd.
I
have used a standard 3mm LED , you can also use 5 mm if you
need, but the 3 mm is quite Ok
The
680 ohms is the dropping and current limit resistor, I have
tapped the 2 wires from the K1 relay which alternates the
+12V between Rx and Tx
73
Pop
VU2POP
?
From:
[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 11:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] RX and TX LED
?
Thank you VU2POP. Is the yellow wire
for RX and the green wire for TX and then the 680 ohm
resistor goes to ground? Is the LED 12 volts? I was
planning on using a Red 3.3 volt LED to indicate TX and a
green 3.3 volt LED to indicate RX
?
On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 12:37 AM
Prathap Naidu <vu2pop@...> wrote:
Hi
ben
See
attached pics, solder 2 wires below the K1 relay
as shown, then to the Dual color LED , the centre
of the LED goes to ground thru a 680 Ohms
restistor.
Have
fun
happy
Bitxing
73
Pop
VU2POP
?
From:
[email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 2:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BITX20] RX and TX LED
?
Could
anybody tell me a way I can pull voltage from the
board for an LED on RX and then pull voltage from
the board for a TX LED and turn off the RX LED?
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
Using 680 ohms will
really make the LED bright.? I = (12V - 3.3V ) / 680.? Most
work real nice on just a few ma.? 2.2K should give nearly 5
ma.? What folks are saying is an LED is not "operated" or
"biased" with voltage.? You put a current thru them, and the
voltage is just a result.? You get what you get!
The current limit
resistor is picked for how bight you desire it to be.?? The
3.3V spec will be the approximate voltage drop at a given
current.
If you were running on
a battery, you might try only 1 or 2 ma.
Just a thought, most
take 20 ma. OK.? For an experiment, try 10K and then 1K??
Mike, WA6ISP
On 11/5/2017 9:52 PM, Prathap Naidu
wrote:
You
can use a dual color LED with 3 leads, centre is common gnd.
I
have used a standard 3mm LED , you can also use 5 mm if you
need, but the 3 mm is quite Ok
The
680 ohms is the dropping and current limit resistor, I have
tapped the 2 wires from the K1 relay which alternates the
+12V between Rx and Tx
73
Pop
VU2POP
?
From:
[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 11:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] RX and TX LED
?
Thank you VU2POP. Is the yellow wire
for RX and the green wire for TX and then the 680 ohm
resistor goes to ground? Is the LED 12 volts? I was
planning on using a Red 3.3 volt LED to indicate TX and a
green 3.3 volt LED to indicate RX
?
On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 12:37 AM
Prathap Naidu <vu2pop@...> wrote:
Hi
ben
See
attached pics, solder 2 wires below the K1 relay
as shown, then to the Dual color LED , the centre
of the LED goes to ground thru a 680 Ohms
restistor.
Have
fun
happy
Bitxing
73
Pop
VU2POP
?
From:
[email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 2:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BITX20] RX and TX LED
?
Could
anybody tell me a way I can pull voltage from the
board for an LED on RX and then pull voltage from
the board for a TX LED and turn off the RX LED?
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
Complete basic electrics, Ben. An LED is a *current-driven* device. You can use *any* Voltage to feed it, so long as you limit the *Current*. You do this with a resistor. Here you use basic arithmetic and Ohm's law. Calculate the required resistance:? = Voltage / Current. Voltage is that supplied minus the LED's natural 'forward' (conducting / 'lit') voltage (typically that's around 1.3 Volts). So, given 12V supply and current around 10 milliAmps (a good starting point, most will give light at 2 or 3 mA and start burning out around 50mA - High-insensity types vary of course - look up the data sheets), then R = (12-1.3 / .010) which ends up around 1 or 1.2k (1000 or 1200) ohms. If only one is to be lit at a time, (RX or TX) they can share the resistor (the 'bi-color' type, or two devices). If they are to be individually lit and can be both lit, (PWR and TX) then each needs its own resistor.
73...
Dex, ZL2DEX
|
So I can tap the wires from K1 and then use a voltage divider circuit to drop it to 3.3volts right?
Ben Kd2nou?
On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 12:52 AM Prathap Naidu < vu2pop@...> wrote: You can use a dual color LED with 3 leads, centre is common gnd. I have used a standard 3mm LED , you can also use 5 mm if you need, but the 3 mm is quite Ok The 680 ohms is the dropping and current limit resistor, I have tapped the 2 wires from the K1 relay which alternates the +12V between Rx and Tx 73 Pop VU2POP ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 11:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] RX and TX LED ? Thank you VU2POP. Is the yellow wire for RX and the green wire for TX and then the 680 ohm resistor goes to ground? Is the LED 12 volts? I was planning on using a Red 3.3 volt LED to indicate TX and a green 3.3 volt LED to indicate RX ? On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 12:37 AM Prathap Naidu <vu2pop@...> wrote: Hi ben See attached pics, solder 2 wires below the K1 relay as shown, then to the Dual color LED , the centre of the LED goes to ground thru a 680 Ohms restistor. Have fun happy Bitxing 73 Pop VU2POP ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 2:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BITX20] RX and TX LED ? Could anybody tell me a way I can pull voltage from the board for an LED on RX and then pull voltage from the board for a TX LED and turn off the RX LED?
|
You can use a dual color LED with 3 leads, centre is common gnd. I have used a standard 3mm LED , you can also use 5 mm if you need, but the 3 mm is quite Ok The 680 ohms is the dropping and current limit resistor, I have tapped the 2 wires from the K1 relay which alternates the +12V between Rx and Tx 73 Pop VU2POP ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 11:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] RX and TX LED ? Thank you VU2POP. Is the yellow wire for RX and the green wire for TX and then the 680 ohm resistor goes to ground? Is the LED 12 volts? I was planning on using a Red 3.3 volt LED to indicate TX and a green 3.3 volt LED to indicate RX ? On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 12:37 AM Prathap Naidu <vu2pop@...> wrote: Hi ben See attached pics, solder 2 wires below the K1 relay as shown, then to the Dual color LED , the centre of the LED goes to ground thru a 680 Ohms restistor. Have fun happy Bitxing 73 Pop VU2POP ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 2:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BITX20] RX and TX LED ? Could anybody tell me a way I can pull voltage from the board for an LED on RX and then pull voltage from the board for a TX LED and turn off the RX LED?
|
Thank you VU2POP. Is the yellow wire for RX and the green wire for TX and then the 680 ohm resistor goes to ground? Is the LED 12 volts? I was planning on using a Red 3.3 volt LED to indicate TX and a green 3.3 volt LED to indicate RX
73 Ben Kd2nou?
On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 12:37 AM Prathap Naidu < vu2pop@...> wrote: Hi ben See attached pics, solder 2 wires below the K1 relay as shown, then to the Dual color LED , the centre of the LED goes to ground thru a 680 Ohms restistor. Have fun happy Bitxing 73 Pop VU2POP ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 2:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BITX20] RX and TX LED ? Could anybody tell me a way I can pull voltage from the board for an LED on RX and then pull voltage from the board for a TX LED and turn off the RX LED?
|
Hi ben See attached pics, solder 2 wires below the K1 relay as shown, then to the Dual color LED , the centre of the LED goes to ground thru a 680 Ohms restistor. Have fun happy Bitxing 73 Pop VU2POP ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 2:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BITX20] RX and TX LED ? Could anybody tell me a way I can pull voltage from the board for an LED on RX and then pull voltage from the board for a TX LED and turn off the RX LED?
|
Re: BITX QSO Night, Sunday, November 5, 7pm Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere
I tuned in late, but there was too much noise. I was using the FT-101 and the noise floor was about an S7 or S8.
Vince.
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Show quoted text
On 11/05/2017 10:54 PM, KN4AAG Kevin Estep wrote: Only made one contact. NX2U, Michael, in TN.
Heard a few, very light, but couldn't make out the details.
Kevin - NC
KN4AAG
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
|
Re: BITX QSO Night, Sunday, November 5, 7pm Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere
Only made one contact. NX2U, Michael, in TN.
Heard a few, very light, but couldn't make out the details.
Kevin - NC
KN4AAG
|
Re: BITX QSO Night, Sunday, November 5, 7pm Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere
Tom, of all nights, tonight is the first night I got your call sign, when W1LY and you signed off. ?Shouted out to you with a 100 watts and a wire, but nothing getting out from here.
Craig KM4YEC
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Ok Dex...I hear you but you're never too old to try something new, eh?
It's now 0313 Z and managed to work VE3RRD AL about 3 miles, VE6RAC about 1,600 miles and W1LY Wily about 787 miles. Heard WI1B but did not confirm qso. Can't say I heard anybody else in 3 hrs. The band is a changin for sure. 73 all
|
Raj vu2zap
Allard PE1NWL
Craig Thibodeaux