I've used a mouse wheel for robotics projects. You should be able
to make it work.
Jonathan
On 7/14/2017 5:05 PM, Dexter N Muir
wrote:
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Show quoted text
This is just speculation, I haven't tried it myself having not
yet delved into the programming to activate it:
Has anyone tried the guts of a PC-mouse as an encoder? I'm
thinking a mouse with scroll-wheel (most have a mild 'detent'
feel) - perhaps an old(er) ps/2 plug type? Use a ps/2 socket to
retain the 'foolproof' pluggability. Disconnect the wiring
(maybe leave supply + and -), and wire out the opto's of the
wheel. One will be SDA, the other SCL. Perhaps also a/the
button/s? one as encoder's 'push' menu/function for step-change
etc (I'd use the right for that), the other (left being more
intuitive for the more prevalent dexterous :) of the populace)
for a convenient PTT... Note: will they pull up or down?
That's 6 wires (if the PS/2's connector pins are all wired
through the cable - they might not for a mouse) - SDA, SCL, +5V,
0V, menu and PTT.
If your scrapped mouse is a 'track-ball' type, remove the ball
to remove the temptation from the kids to swap it to their old
'junker' PC. Pop in a large nut from the garage/workshop's
junk-heap to lend weight if required.
Feedback? Flames? Go to it ...
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You may wish to take this opportunity and remove the nano and as I did solder in a inline header so you can remove future ?Nano's.? A low profile socket is helpful so you can later connect the display module sandwich. Larry
On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote: ?Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and it now had those boxes all the way across. I've disconnected the radrino from the display and although my laptop recognizes that the radio o is plugged in, the radrino will not take an upload from the laptop. This is the same laptop that I used to upload 1.18 into it about 4 days ago. Being that I can't upload to the radrino with the display not connected to it that makes me think that maybe the radrio got whacked somehow. How, I have no idea.? I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary other than turning those two pots and keying up the mic.? I was using a fully insulated screw driver
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Re: Shameless plug for Amateurlogic. Tonight!
Would be lovely to have reliable youtube here in NZ (for 1PM NZST).
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?Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and it now had those boxes all the way across. I've disconnected the radrino from the display and although my laptop recognizes that the radio o is plugged in, the radrino will not take an upload from the laptop. This is the same laptop that I used to upload 1.18 into it about 4 days ago. Being that I can't upload to the radrino with the display not connected to it that makes me think that maybe the radrio got whacked somehow. How, I have no idea. ?I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary other than turning those two pots and keying up the mic. ?I was using a fully insulated screw driver
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Reads like the Nano is blown.? Just plugging in the DDS into your USB by its self should show it booting etc. with version displayed then random numbers 'cause you don't have the tune pot plugged in etc.? The Nano runs the Si5351 with 3 volts from the Nano on board 3v regulator. ?i suspect the 5 reg. gets really hot to the touch. I've been running my BITX from a 12V. battery.."works fine_Last long time" Looks like a new Nano is needed. Hope that helps for what it's worth. Larry
On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 3:01 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote: Have any of you guys seen this where the display shows black boxes all the way across the top line of the display?
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mine does not tune...going to purchase another...
On Jul 14, 2017 8:19 PM, "David Woodward" < kf4wbj2@...> wrote: trying to figure out what RE and EN leads are...yes backlight works....and the raduino?worked flawlessly till I started tinkering....
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trying to figure out what RE and EN leads are...yes backlight works....and the raduino?worked flawlessly till I started tinkering....
On Jul 14, 2017 8:08 PM, "Arv Evans" < arvid.evans@...> wrote: Curt and David
I get that when the Arduino has not fully initialized the LCD display.? It can be caused
by the RE or EN lead not making good contact.? I have this sometimes when using a
prototype plug-board for temporary layouts.
Is there any back light on in the LCD?? Has it ever worked properly?? Does the tuning
adjustment work??
I doubt that this is an LCD problem or a problem with software or the Raduino board.?
Most likely it is a wiring situation...but I have been wrong before.
This is what happens when power is applied to the LCD but no subsequent commands
are sent to the display to initialize it for 2 lines by 16 characters.? I made this happen
by lifting the LCD's RE lead from its connector.
There are 2 control lines (RE and EN) along with 4 data lines (D4,5,6,7) sent to
the LCD.? There are also +5V power and ground on the two pins on one end.? The
two pins on the opposite end need +5 through a small resistor and ground for the
backlight LED.? A look at the schematic for the Raduino will show which pins connect
to what between Raduino and the LCD.
?
It should look something like this, but with the normal Radiuno text on the LCD.  ? Yes, I know those are poor quality pictures, but its the best I can do with sunlight
streaming into the room.?
The contrast control potentiometer can change whether the boxes are shown as
black or white on the back light background.
Arv
_._
?
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Curt and David
I get that when the Arduino has not fully initialized the LCD display.? It can be caused
by the RE or EN lead not making good contact.? I have this sometimes when using a
prototype plug-board for temporary layouts.
Is there any back light on in the LCD?? Has it ever worked properly?? Does the tuning
adjustment work??
I doubt that this is an LCD problem or a problem with software or the Raduino board.?
Most likely it is a wiring situation...but I have been wrong before.
This is what happens when power is applied to the LCD but no subsequent commands
are sent to the display to initialize it for 2 lines by 16 characters.? I made this happen
by lifting the LCD's RE lead from its connector.
There are 2 control lines (RE and EN) along with 4 data lines (D4,5,6,7) sent to
the LCD.? There are also +5V power and ground on the two pins on one end.? The
two pins on the opposite end need +5 through a small resistor and ground for the
backlight LED.? A look at the schematic for the Raduino will show which pins connect
to what between Raduino and the LCD.
?
It should look something like this, but with the normal Radiuno text on the LCD.  ? Yes, I know those are poor quality pictures, but its the best I can do with sunlight
streaming into the room.?
The contrast control potentiometer can change whether the boxes are shown as
black or white on the back light background.
Arv
_._
?
On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 2:01 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote: Have any of you guys seen this where the display shows black boxes all the way across the top line of the display?
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This is just speculation, I haven't tried it myself having not yet delved into the programming to activate it:
Has anyone tried the guts of a PC-mouse as an encoder? I'm thinking a mouse with scroll-wheel (most have a mild 'detent' feel) - perhaps an old(er) ps/2 plug type? Use a ps/2 socket to retain the 'foolproof' pluggability. Disconnect the wiring (maybe leave supply + and -), and wire out the opto's of the wheel. One will be SDA, the other SCL. Perhaps also a/the button/s? one as encoder's 'push' menu/function for step-change etc (I'd use the right for that), the other (left being more intuitive for the more prevalent dexterous :) of the populace) for a convenient PTT... Note: will they pull up or down?
That's 6 wires (if the PS/2's connector pins are all wired through the cable - they might not for a mouse) - SDA, SCL, +5V, 0V, menu and PTT.
If your scrapped mouse is a 'track-ball' type, remove the ball to remove the temptation from the kids to swap it to their old 'junker' PC. Pop in a large nut from the garage/workshop's junk-heap to lend weight if required.
Feedback? Flames? Go to it ...
|
Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
Hi Mike ? Thanks for the tips My DDS has jumpers on J1 J2 and J3, and it¡¯s definitely an AD9850 with 3 rows of 7 pins. I have e-mailed the seller in China to see what can be done. I have limited test equipment, but I¡¯m taking it over the weekend to a fellow amateur who has a spectrum analyser to see what it is doing ? 73 de Charlie GI4FUE ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of K5ESS
Sent: 14 July 2017 23:26
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD? Assuming your DDS is the type that has three rows of seven pins be sure that the jumper at J3 is in place.? Also, not that there is an easy fix, but you might check to be sure it¡¯s an AD9850 and not an AD9851. Mike K5ESS ? ? ? Hi Matt ? No, I just compiled the latest version of the code and the default seems to be 7.200. I think I have a problem with the DDS which I got from China, There is no output L ? 73, Charlie GI4FUE ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of DH2LAB
Sent: 14 July 2017 11:39
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD ? On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 01:42 pm, Charlie Morrison wrote: I have my board built and running with the latest code, however turning the rotary encoder does not move the frequency from 7.200 .....
73, Charlie GI4FUE
Hi Charlie; did you change the Bandend to 7200 for Europe? If you did so, you have also change line 1417. 73, Matt DH2LAB
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Shameless plug for Amateurlogic. Tonight!
?Join us Friday night at 8:00 PM CDT, 0100 UTC for the next exciting episode of AmateurLogic.TV. ?
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Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD
Thanks that's the picture i'd been looking for.
Together with the recommendation to use buffered output for the VFO this clarifies wireup a lot.
Thank you very much for the great work Jack
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Sounds like a hosed nano. I'm assuming you have the CH340 driver installed in your computer?
Vince.
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Show quoted text
On 07/14/2017 06:42 PM, Curt M. wrote: I have 12v in and 5v out like I would expect to have. I pulled the board
off of the display and connected it to my laptop. The radrino shows up
as USB-Serial CH340 (COM10) when I plug it into my laptop. The short
version of the error that I get while trying to upload is "programmer is
not responding", "attempt 1 of 10: not in sync"
i see the RX light flash occasionally while it trying to upload but it's
not taking the upload.
I've tried to press the reset button on the board and that didn't seem
to make a difference.
Board type in software is set for Arduino Nano
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
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I have 12v in and 5v out like I would expect to have. I pulled the board off of the display and connected it to my laptop. The radrino shows up as USB-Serial CH340 (COM10) when I plug it into my laptop. ? The short version of the error that I get while trying to upload is "programmer is not responding", "attempt 1 of 10: not in sync"
i see the RX light flash occasionally while it trying to upload but it's not taking the upload.?
I've tried to press the reset button on the board and that didn't seem to make a difference.?
Board type in software is set for Arduino Nano
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Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
Assuming your DDS is the type that has three rows of seven pins be sure that the jumper at J3 is in place.? Also, not that there is an easy fix, but you might check to be sure it¡¯s an AD9850 and not an AD9851. Mike K5ESS ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Charlie Morrison
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 2:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD? Hi Matt ? No, I just compiled the latest version of the code and the default seems to be 7.200. I think I have a problem with the DDS which I got from China, There is no output L ? 73, Charlie GI4FUE ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of DH2LAB
Sent: 14 July 2017 11:39
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD ? On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 01:42 pm, Charlie Morrison wrote: I have my board built and running with the latest code, however turning the rotary encoder does not move the frequency from 7.200 .....
73, Charlie GI4FUE
Hi Charlie; did you change the Bandend to 7200 for Europe? If you did so, you have also change line 1417. 73, Matt DH2LAB
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Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD
Jack ? Thanks. Question:? External power on picture states 7-9 volts. I have been using 12 volts. I assume my assumption is wrong and that a voltage regulator is needed to reduce 12v to 7-9 v for the external power input? ? ? Art
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 4:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD? Thought this might help some of you decipher some of the pins coming out from the board.
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This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
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In the "wire up" section of HFsigs.com, under "alignment of the bitx40" it says to turn RV1 (PA bias) fully clockwise (off) and with an ammeter in the PA power lead (so you are measuring only the current to the PA, not the whole radio), adjust RV1 for 100 ma with PTT activated but no mic audio. After that, RV1 should not be touched. R136 which is usually about mid-point when you get your bitx40, is the only control that should be adjusted to get about 1A on the ammeter when you key the mic and talk loudly into it. This is when transmitting into a proper 50 ohm dummy load, as a poor SWR can mess up your measurements. For example, the wires to the antenna connector should be no longer than a couple of inches long, if a longer distance is needed use 50 ohm mini coax to avoid causing a poor SWR at this point.
Don't "daisy chain" grounds or power connections to different circuits. The 3 grounds and 3 power leads (from Raduino, main circuit board, and PA power) should all go to a common tie point near the DC entry point on your enclosure.
Don't allow wires to lay on top of or up against the underside of the circuit board. All wiring should be kept above, below, or to the the side of the circuit board about a half inch if possible.
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Grab your voltmeters guys. Check the input and output voltages of the 3 term regulator hanging off the side.
Also try unplugging the connectors going in and plugging the Raduino in to your PC.
Vince.
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Show quoted text
On 07/14/2017 04:14 PM, Curt M. wrote: Mine was working fine for a week, receiving fine also. I was trying to
adjust the two post to see if maybe turning them to the left would make
a difference in the TX output. In the past I had only turned them to
the right and then back to center and then someone chimed in and said
that they are more or less reverse acting, power goes up when you turn
them to the left. I was using what we've always called a tweeker
screwdriver which is fully insulated except for the tip so I didn't
short anything out. I just happened to look down at the display was
still lit up but it had black boxes across the top row of the display.
I powered it down and plugged into the radrino and it didn't seem to
want to communicate to my laptop anymore. I only tried one time to
communicate with the radrino and then the phone rang so I packed it up
for the night. I may look at it again tonight. The main board still
seems to power up and I can hear the relays clicking when I key up.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
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Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD
All:
Thought this might help some of you decipher some of the pins coming out from the board.
Jack, W8TEE
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exact same here....and as I tuned the display cut off and on.? Going to order another board.
On Jul 14, 2017 4:14 PM, "Curt M." < Kc3hjp@...> wrote: Mine was working fine for a week, receiving fine also.? I was trying to adjust the two post to see if maybe turning them to the left would make a difference in the TX output.? In the past I had only turned them to the right and then back to center and then someone chimed in and said that they are more or less reverse acting, power goes up when you turn them to the left.? I was using what we've always called a tweeker screwdriver which is fully insulated except for the tip so I didn't short anything out.? I just happened to look down at the display was still lit up but it had black boxes across the top row of the display.? I powered it down and plugged into the radrino and it didn't seem to want to communicate to my laptop anymore.? I only tried one time to communicate with the radrino and then the phone rang so I packed it up for the night.? I may look at it again tonight.? The main board still seems to power up and I can hear the relays clicking when I key up.
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Charlie Morrison
