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All measurements are taken from the lower left corner of the panel (as you look at the panel from the front). For a rectangular opening, that measurement would be the x and y offset from the lower

Thanks! Where are you measuring X0/Y0 from? Have to wait until I get my Bitx40 before I can decide, so I can measure the LCD and figure out where I want the controls (I might go for a front-firing

Is it possible that the bandpass filter characteristics with the 47pF capacitor are a remnant of the BitX20's USB operation? If so, would adding future bands like 60m or 20m sound better with the

You can also do the same with the back panel. On both, I'll assume that 'lower left' means as looking at the front of the case for the front panel, and looking at the back of the case for the back

If you can let me know where, type and size of the holes you need in the panel, I'll build a printable (.stl) file for you that matches. If you'll respond with something like: round hole, d1 mm

That would be sweet! Roy WA0YMH BITX20@...> wrote:

I have had OpenScad on my computer since I built my 3D printer 3 years ago (it was part of the software download package for the printer), and I never could make heads or tails of it. It's not very

Having a passing familiarity with the inner-workings of the FT-817, one of the problems with it is that its AGC is not well-designed. Unlike most AGCs, the time constant appears to be different for

There is a piece of software called OpenScad that is free. With it, you can import a .STL file (which is what is usually provided on Thingiverse), you can then 'subtract' cylinders (to make round

Out of curiosity, does anyone on this group play around with CAD software? I found a 3D printable box on Thingiverse ( BITX40 enclosure by Ik8yfw ) that was sized for the Bitx40 board, but it has

Mine too order date 12-25-2016 Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

?All Right! ? Mine as shipped a well !!!! 73Don Frasher ? AD7LL

Mine shipped today. Woo-hoo! Hoping it arrives before the 17th, since that is when our ham radio club meets again and I am hoping to drum up some interest in the club for homebrew projects. Looking

I tested and getting 330 ohms. Receive current is 100ma no signal. Transmit is anywhere from 180 ma to almost one amp depending where RV 1 is set to

If the gate get too much +ve bias then the IRF will conduct too much current till it blows. Replace the final IRF and see. 73, Raj vu2zap

looks like I broke the transmit for my Bitx40. While adjusting the PA bias I increased the ma value probably to much. The driver Q14 not gets hot while in transmit and no temp change for Q15. The pa

Bill, While looking at the diagram again it occurred to me that if Q14 was shorted, the power supply would get 2.2 + 10 Ohm load and that would draw almost 1 amp from a 12V power supply. Please

If the final bias adjust preset is untouched then the IRF may have failed. Check the voltage on the left side gate pin of IRF (facing you) it should be a small value, I don't have my boards with me

Without speaking

From the diagram it is Red Brown Black. If your tuning movement is reverse then just interchange red and black! 73 Raj vu2zap