|
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.? What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Carl what am I sandwiching if I cut the piece out? Can't I just drop in an appropriately sized piece of plywood? I had to remove rot all the way under the wall to the edge.?
So far I have been using my trusty hack saw. Got as far as I can with that. To Harbor Freight tonight.
Still didn't get those damn screws out.
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
|
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I. Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took off the rot.) I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go. Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.? What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Hello
Kathryn:
I
believe you are right, the frame is glued to the floor, so you
will have a tough time slipping the tin in. May I suggest just
bending a 90° lip up against the frame and caulking the gap.
Sounds like you are making progress.
Carl.
On 7/27/2022 7:22 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I.
Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the
ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the
camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took
off the rot.)
I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go.
Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all
in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in
the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the
wiring.
|
Well glue makes that job a lot harder.? I was thinking that if the box could be jacked up a half inch, that would make enough roof for the tin, and also to slide the plywood between the frame and bottom of the walls.? But not if it's glued.
So Aliner also bolts the floor to the frame, right?? I'm curious as to where the bolts are.? I'd expect to see them in the pictures, but don't.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 04:22 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I. Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took off the rot.)
I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go. Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
The bolts are in the pictures if you look carefully.? There were only 2 in my way. I was ablecto get them both out once I got them wood out first.
On Wed, Jul 27, 2022, 11:16 PM Steve T < srtimm@...> wrote: Well glue makes that job a lot harder.? I was thinking that if the box could be jacked up a half inch, that would make enough roof for the tin, and also to slide the plywood between the frame and bottom of the walls.? But not if it's glued.
So Aliner also bolts the floor to the frame, right?? I'm curious as to where the bolts are.? I'd expect to see them in the pictures, but don't.
On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 04:22 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I. Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took off the rot.)
I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go. Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
The floor in mine is glued.? You can see the squeeze out on some of the frame members.? It was then anchored down with large self tapping wide head screws.? I would imagine if the screws were backed out, and you jacked the floor up, the liner under the wood might stay, but the floor would rise up.? An oscillating power tool would be ideal in that situation.? You can see the screw heads in her photos.
?
--
Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida
2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.
|
I'm tired. IF? I am going to undercoat it with a rubberized/waterproof paint, then WHT to a need a layer of metal as well?? The rest of the underside has no metal.
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
![]()
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
|
When I replaced some of my floor in 2008 Classic I spray painted it with rustoleom black paint. The water damage comes from above best I can tell, not from the bottom.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 28, 2022, at 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm tired. IF? I am going to undercoat it with a rubberized/waterproof paint, then WHT to a need a layer of metal as well?? The rest of the underside has no metal.
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
|
I agree - if your not adding metal for support, just undercoating should be enough.
Best of luck & happy camping
On Thu, Jul 28, 2022 at 2:54 PM, Hap Kimmel <pilothap@...> wrote: When I replaced some of my floor in 2008 Classic I spray painted it with rustoleom black paint. The water damage comes from above best I can tell, not from the bottom.?
Hap? On Jul 28, 2022, at 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm tired. IF? I am going to undercoat it with a rubberized/waterproof paint, then WHT to a need a layer of metal as well?? The rest of the underside has no metal.
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
![]()
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
|
I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
|
Hi
Gang:
The
down side to painting the plywood first is then the glue has
to stick to the paint. You could mask off the areas that need
glue and paint the rest.
Carl.
On 7/28/2022 7:24 PM, Steve T wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based
enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No
primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you
get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final
coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it
will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk
off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy
because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
|
Good to know. Too late to prime all but not too late for some. I will be doing a half sandwhich on the wall side because I realized there's not much holding up that piece. Got some rolled flashing, not so much for support but to cover the gaps and pull it all together.? ?Hardest part for me was getting clean straight lines ( as evidenced by the wood filler). Haven't decided what to paint it all with yet . Not rel thrilled with the idea of trying to use tar while laying on my back under the trailer. Want to undercoat the entire thing.
Looks like we will make it to the Northeast Rally in September.?
I have to say I love this group. Equal amounts of "you can do it" and "let's be careful out there"! Much appreciated..
On Thu, Jul 28, 2022, 7:24 PM Steve T < srtimm@...> wrote: I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
|
Hello
Kathryn:
It
looks real nice. Congratulations!
Carl.
|
I have learned to never say "I can't" to you guys!
|
It's often surprising to yourself what you CAN do when you don't convince yourself in advance that you CAN'T! And nice surprises are hard to come by.?
On Thu, Jul 28, 2022, 8:27 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I have learned to never say "I can't" to you guys!
|
Katheryn,
I just wanted to say....Great Job!? In regards to spraying the bottom with something like Flex Seal or a rubberized undercoating...it can be messy.? A couple of tips.? Cover all exposed skin and make sure your prescription glasses are covered or work without them but you must have eye protection.? Any exposed skin can be covered (which would more than likely just be your face) can be covered with something like a heavy coat of thick hand lotion.? I have also used cooking oils to achieve the same thing.? Any of the spray sealant will easily wash off if you have a layer of something on the skin.? If not...some of that stuff will stay on your skin for a week or more.??
Keep up the good work!
Travis? :)
|
Carl
Don DeRyke
