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Does anyone have a threading dial chart for 2.0 mm lead screw. I have gearing charts and for both metric and inch all the threads. But lathe I purchased did not come with threading dial for metric threads and plan to build one. Dave

I bought the 7x14 Vevor lathe with the 550w DC motor a will back. The motor doesn't have much power. I can stall it with my bare hands by grasping the 4" chuck. Is there a easy way to check out the motor to see if it is the problem. I have the motor out and sitting on the bench.

Here a drawing on blind threading I talked about in past thread. This good drawing. I have not used the 30° angle since 1970's. Dave

Here a white lead sub for dead centers and bevel gears in scroll chucks. (Do use on scroll side of chuck 5w or 10w) I used since the 1970's https://www.kbctools.com/itemdetail/1-820-401

Here is a easy way to mill the flat for exstension on mini lathe . Note the two drill bits in the vise. Dave

I think I do more single-point threading than tap or die threading. Certainly in larger thread sizes (1/2" and up), and certainly not in small thread sizes (less than 1/4"). Projects I do with large fine threads generally require single-point threading, especially if fine fitting is desired. I have a project to do with 7/8"x32tpi threads. The images are of 1/2x20tpi threads - with no discernable play and smooth turning. The male threads are on 3/4" brass rod and the nut is gold iridite (yellow chromate?) finish grade 8. It's the beginning of a drain spud for a furnace humidifier. It is since drilled through 0.280" and has a 3/4" male 45 degree taper seat on the left side. Does it need to be that good? No, but I want it that good. After all, it's a hobby! -- Lone Tree, Colorado USA

This is project I plan to do for a long time A flame eater engine aka candle eater engine. See file section for complete set of drawings Dave

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SQOEYKGnr8

People here and on other forums often talk about having had to clean, fix, shim, adjust, tweak a new lathe in order to make it accurate and useable. And that being willing to do so lets you start with a less expensive mill, from HF or Vevor, say, rather than one from LMS or Grizzly. But I've yet to see an overall guide to what all of that work entails, and how its done. Does anyone have a pointer to a video, or a blog, or similar, that goes through all of what might be entailed? It's hard to convince myself I want to go through the effort, without understanding it better. I'm pretty sure I have the skills. But I might not have the patience or the equipment or tools. And: is it always possible for the home hobby user to fully adjust a cheaper mill? Are there some problems that just can't be fixed? paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 41.4 degrees)

Shall I shop it, so my grandchild ,8 years, can use it in my workshop? Maybe some blue marks on finger the first days, but then maybe she will start a new nice hobby. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005947186867.html?ug_edm_item_id=1005005947186867&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21MXN%21MXN%242.059%2C26%21MXN%24679%2C55%21%21%21%21%21%4021410eda17052738315667476d6490%2112000035053184419%21edm%21%21&edm_click_module=alg_product_l1r2_7880990280&creative_img_ind=1&edm_log_data=edm-item-list-left-one-right-two.store-product-log-link&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_41194_1_en_US_2024-01-14&rowan_msg_id=johaCOWS_41194_%240e13b55fe88d43228340131fcd27e530&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp Johannes Mexico

got this from the 9x20 group , may be some interest to some animal A simple indexer for the 9x20 lathe They have been many times when I have wanted to index something in the lathe so in an effort to improve the slapdash way I usually do it I came up with the following. First an expanding mandrel to hold a change gear in the back of the spindle. The cuts for the expanding segments were done with the angle grinder which is why they are skewed. The keyway was cut by holding the mandrel end somewhat insecurely in a tool holder but it worked. This same expanding mandrel also hold the manual handle when I want to go really slow like when threading up to a shoulder. Next we need a pin to sit in the teeth of the gear so the spindle cannot turn. I dismantled the sprung lever for the gear box to see how it was made and basically copied that. Obviously the end of the pin must be cut to fit in between the gear teeth so once again I held something in the tool bit holder and used a cutter to mill away the two sides. This time though all 4 screws held the part. Then made the cap that pulls up the pin against the spring, just like the gear lever. To hold the pin assembly I made a steel bracket from some 10x25mm flat bar. The right angled section can be adjusted in height according to the size of the gear used. Then drilled and tapped 2xM8 holes to bolt it down to the head stock once is was aligned to sit vertically over the change gear. Some times I use a printed degree wheel in place of the change gear but then its difficult to lock the spindle in the required position.