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LMS 5100 7x16 Mini-Lathe Aligned
Having previously fiddled with headstock alignment on the subject lathe in the past without success, I have now done the full process. The lathe alignment before work was: Vertical 0.005¡± high in 9 inches toward the tailstock Horizontal 0.009¡± forward in 9 inches (in line with known 0.005¡± in five inches from previous measurements) In a recent topic, some shortcomings of this lathe were mentioned. And lathe upgrades had also been mentioned. One being tapered roller bearings in the headstock, and another being a fourth headstock hold down bolt. The 7x mini-lathe certainly lacks rigidity which can easily be uncovered and displayed, and was the primary reason for upgrading to four headstock hold down bolts. Lock washers were used on all the bolts. Because of the factory poorly fitted headstock, the lathe alignment process uncovered the fact that adjustment could be changed with tightening of the four bolts an additional amount. Likewise for a bit of loosening. I had no intension of any loosening. So some 15 iterations (probably more) of shimming were involved. Not all efforts delivered the expected results. A lot of measuring and rechecking measurements were done. In the end, after considerable frustration with unexpected outcomes, the final results are: Vertical 0.00015¡± in 9 inch toward the tailstock Horizontal 0.0002¡± forward in 9 inches (retaining concavity) Pretty good ¨C probably more flex in the machine than that. -- Lone Tree, Colorado USA
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Selling Price of Used Minilathe?
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What would be good asking price for a well maintained ten year old 7x16 minilathe tooled up with all the standard chucks and tooling? Lathe looks great. I was thinking maybe 50% of new? Coments Welcome
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This is off topic for the subject of this group, but almost everyone here will be faced with this eventually, and the people here are tech-savvy folks fully capable of doing what I did, so I'm sharing it anyway. Tonight I did something I've been planning (and to some extent dreading) for several months. The buzzards have been circling for the battery in my Samsung S10e smartphone for quite a while, but I didn't think paying someone to replace it would be worth the money. So I replaced it myself, using an iFixit battery and repair kit, plus their online repair guide. And the job went fine. I've installed batteries in electronic devices before, but modern phones are waterproof, which means the back covers are glued on with heat-sensitive adhesive. The part I feared was removing that cover, since you need to apply enough heat to soften the glue, but too much heat applied to a lithium battery could do very bad things. (The warning in red in this photo, and similar ones throughout iFixit's online guide, definitely focus the mind). The iFixit instructions for this phone are available free at https://www.ifixit.com/.../Samsung+Galaxy+S10e.../121285 and they're worth reading if you question whether you can do this job -- iPhones with glued-on backs have their own instructions but are similar (There are also many comments in these instructions, including some added by yours truly under the name "MikeT-NYC"). But I was frankly amazed at obliviousness of some of the others who did this job including one commenter who keeps calling iFixit "criminals" for providing instructions that were totally wrong -- it's fairly obvious that he or she was trying to fix a different phone and was reading the wrong instructions. Also, there were many commenters trying to fix their phones without the proper equipment, particularly for removing the cover. The iFixit kit ($38.96) includes an "iOpener" -- a microwave-heatable gel pack like the kind sold in drug stores for sore muscles, but the size of a large hot dog. Several people asked if they could use a heat gun instead. Of COURSE you can, if you're a fool. I have several heat guns, but a heat gun puts out about 500 degrees, and broadcasts the heat everywhere. The iOpener is a slim little gel tube that gets to about 150 F -- just uncomfortable to the touch -- and concentrates the heat in a thin strip, so you can nicely heat the edges of the cover without cooking your battery or the electronics. The iFixit toolkit is cheap and smartphones are very expensive. So why would anybody with a three-digit IQ blast 500 degrees onto a phone (containing a battery well-known for becoming an incendiary device) in order to save $39 on a repair kit? All in all, this kit was complete and the instructions were thorough. And so far the battery seems to be a good one. (I've "repaired" other devices with eBay batteries that turned out to be little improvement on the one I removed). So if your phone battery is dying and you're reasonably handy, go for it.
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ifixit has bee keeping my IPOD Classic alive & well for several years now . Next is I have a blown speaker in my MacBook , they have a speaker kit just waitin for me to order it . Good folks to deal with animal
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38 $ lathe ?
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https://ciqmsob.com/products/metal15?pp=0&variant=39968068 animal
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Grizzly is doing better - I hope!!!
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Today, I just received the annual catalog from Grizzly by mail. It is very thick compared to what they sent me last year which was relatively thin with maybe just under 50 or 100 pages, not sure. This time it is a full 500 pages. I see it as an indication that Grizzly is doing well. I feel good about it. I want US businesses to do well.. Just expressing my personal feelings, PrasadEastern PA
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Insert tooling info
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This guy deserves a drink , no several after all the work that went into being able to make this tube . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcF3nVQnJzA animal
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i'll surely get severely chastised for this blasphemy my lathe has ball oiler at various locations and i regularly oil the bearings and gear bushings but not the ways and lead screw i use paraffin the swarf doesn't stick and a vacuum makes quick work of the bits
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First use of new four juaw chuck. Making cross slide exstension. Three jaw could not grip the bar right in chuck Note new screws on compound gibs. No heads Dave
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1st a thanks to those who suggested my Speedway 7x12 speed control issue was most likely a bad pot. I replaced it with some major surgery and it¡¯s fully recovered and working like new. Next problem is the unwanted taper I get machining stock longer than a few inches. This happens whether I¡¯m turning between tailstock and 3 jaw chuck or between centers. I¡¯m not a machinist an have no idea how to solve this issue. For measurement I have a magnetic stand and plunger dial indicator. But how to use them to solve my taper issue is a mystery. Is the an easy way to achieve this? Tom P.S. I use my lathe in building bamboo fly fishing rod hardware.
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Other members may have seen this, but it's new to me. Some top notch work with only the mini-lathe and drill press. (Reminds me of back when I built the Sparey 5cc) The mini-lathe carriage handwheel is a bit crude, but workable for me. This hobbyist found it to be otherwise, and it's not on youtube with its incessant commercials. https://hackaday.com/2021/11/13/improving-a-mini-lathe-with-a-few-clever-hacks/ -- Lone Tree, Colorado USA
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Are all tail stocks need a stub Morse in mini lathes? Dave
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I tried several alternative for an Apron SWarf Shield: I firt tried the Phenom Engineering Shield: This is held in place by Neodymium magnets, but is a little thick (and the magnets gather steel chips). Also, I'm not sure if they are still in business, even though their website is still up & running. I then tried the LMS Apron Chip Shield: While their current offering (above) looks like it is Aluminum, mine was thin plastic sheeting and I used a bead of Permatex to attach it to the Apron. This worked well, but the left edge tended to grab on my telescoping lead screw cover, so the last time I had the Apron off I made one from 0.010" brass, drilling & tapping the apron for M2-0.040 x 3mm screws (didn't use drive pins because I want to be able to get to things later): The lower left corner is secured by the telescoping lead screw cover receiver which mounts using the M4 tapped holes (added when installing the cover).
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Import lathes
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Here's a blurb from Tony's site about import lathe , though it's mostly about the larger ones it's still information . I have Enco 11x20 according to the part # in a tag on the lathe , but I have never been able to pin down a actual parts & owners manual for it . It's identical to all teh lathes here that have the square headstock . http://www.lathes.co.uk/taiwan/ happy reading animal
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Here my follower rest install on my mini lathe. Had to drill and taps holes as my lathe did have any. Dave
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Lubrication on mini lathes
What do use and how offing using Lubrication? Dave This what my manual has on the subject. ? Lubricate the moving parts of the device with NLGI2 grease or 20W machine oil between uses. Particularly, service the lubrication points on the carriage and the lead screw.
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LMS 5100 Lathe Bed and Headstock Modifications
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Having evaluated headstock-to-bed alignment a couple of times in the past with little success, and seemingly chasing a moving target, I abandoned the effort. A month or two ago I installed tapered roller bearings in the headstock. I was not much impressed with the bed finish under the headstock, but moved on with the headstock reinstallation. Recent discussions regarding machine quality reinforced my desire to beat this lathe into submission. Using ?¡± drill rod in the 3-jaw chuck seemed to indicate the headstock as pointing down going towards the tailstock. Loosening both chuck-side bolts of the headstock, and inserting 0.001 under the flat and the V did not help. After more fiddling I loosened the third (last) bolt on the front-gear-train side. And shortly discovered the headstock can rock on an axis from the rear-chuck side to the front-gear-train side. The gap under the rear-chuck side of the headstock is 0.007¡± with the headstock resting of its own weight on the bed (and also with 45 pound chunk of steel on it). The rear flat of the headstock appears to have been machined at a slight angle ¨C or warped. Shimming will be needed ¨C just to get the headstock from rocking ¨C and this is what I mean by very poor QC. But rather than just doing that alone (prior to any alignment efforts), I decided I want the headstock more rigidly attached. Especially since the area where the motor is mounted does not look very rigid. So I have added a fourth bolt to anchor the rear-gear-train side in a more positive manner. Also ordered an MT3 test bar to make things as good as possible. I mentioned the condition of the bed under the headstock earlier. One thing noted was light surface corrosion in the area of the rear-chuck side bolt. I do not think the headstock was ever properly cinched down there, or in reality even possible for that to be done. All three bolt holes had a small bit of burrs which have been cleaned up. There are also a series of light scratches running through the center of the bed angled 30 degrees off the rear bed edge. A lot of quality and care under there. Two images are in my photo section. Awaiting the test bar now. That should be interesting -- Lone Tree, Colorado USA
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http://theamateurmachineshop.com/index.php/projects/16-mini-lathe-upgrades this site also has drawings for a few different sizes of tangential tool holders animal
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heavy hex gauge addition
je viens de voir que le sit est sur laplaque ici https://hexsizer.com/ il y a tous les tableau possible merci jacques 47 71
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Image Name
Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am