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In looking for projects which involve my recently completed taper fixture, I have decided on a 3C collet chuck to fit the MT3 on the minilathe -- this based on reading pdf files on the net. As a newbie I immediately began making chips rather than carefully planning how the chuck would be used. Now that I've made the taper and have started working on the chuck itself, a number of questions have arisen. The pdf articles assume that the tool can be positioned right up to the chuck backplate. The minilathe seems to expect the chuck to be used for all workholding; when positioning more toward the headstock (as when using the collet chuck) the rear of the carriage contacts the motor enclosure and the carriage handle contacts the electronics enclosure, this when the tool is about an inch from the backplate. Greater overhang of the compound is one possibility for improvment but I am concerned that this will increase tool chatter. Should I make the socket so the end of the collet will be an inch or so from the backplate? My understanding of collets is that they work well partly because they are closer to the headstock - will this extended collet chuck make my setup less useful? For the closer my current plan is to turn and thread a short piece to fit the thread on the 3C and then thread/loctite this to a piece of pipe and add a collar and handle to allow tightening. (The reason I don't plan to thread the pipe itself is that I get a poor finish on some steel so I plan to use steel which takes a good finish for contact with the collets.) Is this a reasonable plan? Will the loctite stand up to this use? John

Hi Jason, Not sure how big a hurry you are in but since this is a hobby group I will assume you are in it for the fun of it and recommend you consider making a quick change toolpost of your own. The pattern I am recommending is usually know as "Mert's toolpost" in 7X10/12 circles, although it is not new with him and indeed there is a commercial toolpost out there that uses the same concept with the addition of angular indexing . See: http://www.krfcompany.com/ and various references to "merts toolpost". These things are dooable at the rookie level and you will learn a bunch making one. Please note, you can make one of these without a mill but you will need a 4 jaw chuck (a much better use for hard to come by dollars since the stock tool post is quite usable and easly replicated you you want to change tooling quickly.) I made mine from 1.125 dia steel shaft and 1X1-1/2 hot rolled steel bar. Regards Bob

There are cheaper ones in the UK, but none as compact as this one, which makes it ideal where space is limited. It can be bench mounted, all the cheaper ones seem to be on floor trolleys. Sorry to be off topic, but if anyone knows of a 'band saw' group I will go there!!

Still believe that the USA is the country of unlimited opportunities. Would be happy to get a real advice from professionals in the International Cargo Transportation Business while I'm establishing my small agency in Maryland. Dmitriy info@...

Has anyone any experience of fitting a collett chuck to one of these lathes. I am evaluating getting one, still, and one of the regular jobs would be with small diameter bar which is better used with a collett chuck than a 3 jaw. I am also looking at Band Saws. There is a small one available in the UK which can be bench mounted. It is not the cheapest, but seems pretty powerful for its size. Price seems to be around ?300 ($450). I was wondering if anyone had any experience of one in use. It is in issue 89 of Model Engineers Workshop as an Emco, but Chester sell it as well under their own brand name.

Basic question: When you buy steel alloys, how can you tell what you have? Is there any kind of color coding? Sometimes rod has some yellow or blue color on it. Is that meaningful? Secondly, if you bought some stuff and don't use it all - do you write the alloy on it with permanent marker? Or is there some way of tell what you got? I don't mean telling stainless steel from aluminum, but 12L14 from 1018 or drill rod. How do you store it? Inside, of course, in a 'dry' basement that is unheated and not all that dry. Do you keep the alloys separated? Make up your own color coding? Do you wipe some oil on it to help prevent surface rust? Looking for ideas! -- Regards, Rich ======================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... http://www.woodpens.com/rkleinhenz.htm http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rkleinhenz/vwp?.dir=/pens/ ========================================

Concerning the sister site http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mini- mill, ...I added a message about tramming the mini mill over a week ago but it was never posted on the board. Also, I notice that there have been no new messages added since Apr 2. Does anyone know what the problem is over there?

I measured my 5-C spring collets and found less than .001" taper from the threads to the closing cone!

I recently attempted to make a 3C collet chuck to fit the 3MT taper in my lathe. This seemed to go OK but the first try was not a good fit (rear of the collet fit sloppy) so I made another which fit better. The chuck is based on an article by Exactus, 2984 found here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mlathemods/files/LatheColletChucks/ As a newbie, I've never seen a collet chuck in action so I don't know exactly what to expect from it. What I hoped was that it would provide simple, non-marking gripping of work with zero runout. My chuck may be poorly made or perhaps I'm overly optimistic on how it should work. I bought a 3C South Bend 3/8 brass collet on eBay as a model to judge fit; my goal was to eventually make steel collets to fit the chuck. When I put this collet into my chuck I find that the runout varies each time I tighten the drawbar, typically 2-4 tenths, sometimes up to 1 mil. When the runout is large it gets larger as I move farther from the chuck so apparently it is angled somewhere (the work or the collet itself); if I tap the test piece on the high side with a block of wood it generally will settle to the more typical 2-4 tenths anywhere along the length of the 1 inch long test piece (a commercial 3/8 D bit shaft. Ths narrow part of the SB collet tapers about 6 mils, getting larger as one goes from the threads toward the steep taper. I made the chuck so it is an easy fit for the first part of the collet but I have to press firmly to fully insert it due to the collet's taper. Similarly, it requires a push with the drawbar to get enough to protrude so it can be pulled out. With the above as background, I have a number of newbie questions on collets and collet chucks: 1. What is the expected runout when using a collet? 2. Is the taper on the narrow part of the collet machined in or does this happen when they add the slits? Will this also be present on steel collets or just on brass? 3. What surface(s) are critical in providing the collet centering. That is, is the fit of the chuck onto the rear of the collet critical? Does the chuck need to be tapered in the narrow bore to match the collet? Is there a specification for the steep angle on a 3C? Any help here would be appreciated. I've put quite a bit of time into making this chuck and now don't know whether it is useful or just a fancy doorstop. John

Hello All I am looking for the parts to put a collet system on my mini lathe also. Now one might ask what size collets other than 3c can I use, well here is a site where maybe some of those questions may be answered. (http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/sindex.html) along with other information usefull to the beginner machinest. Thats my two cents worth. Thanks to all that have helped me in the past and in the future. MIKENLN

Page 50 of the HSM for Sep/Oct 2002 has an article on making 3-C and 6-K collets with dimensiond drawings and good details. There is a good discussion of the advantages of the 6-K collet over the 3-C in a modified MT #3 spindle. Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Hi to all! New here [and to machining] and having a great ime learning a new craft. I got a 7x14 from MicroMark. Lots of small problems, but my big one is spindle runout. I am getting just under .001" of runout on the face of the spindle AND on the outer diameter! Of course, this means that turning anything true is almost impossible. Anyone have any knowledge/suggestionson this one? Thanks.

I don't think my first post made it. Go to.... http://www.qsl.net/kf4zgz/kf4zgz_001.htm to see the coils I've built with my 7x12. Matt

FOR INFO BOCA RATON FL 33428 You have been sent this E-mail because you have requested that you be notified about upcoming sales events in your area. If you no longer wish to receive these notices, you may unsubscribe from this list by sending an E-mail to:notify@... with the word 'unsubscribe' in the subject line. You will receive a confirmation E-mail within 24 hours. A Homier Mobile Merchant Sale is going to be at the following location(s): 2 DAYS ONLY! MONDAY & TUESDAY MAY 5 & 6 WEST BOCA RATON MOOSE LODGE 131 NORTH POWERLINE ROAD * IN ALBERTSONS SHOPPING CENTER DEERFIELD BEACH, FL MONDAY: NOON - 7 PM TUESDAY: NOON - 7 PM

Anyone have any suggestions on who sells a scissor knurling tool for a speedway mini lathe? I have a TS engineering QC toolpost on the lathe --Eric

I found a cheapo knurler on micro-mark.com for less than $14.00 shipped. Not a big investment if it turns out being lame. I can post the findings if there is interest. --Eric Part # 82771 DIAMOND PATTERN KNURLING TOOL

Please recommend some books I am having trouble threading thanks mike aita

hi can anyone suggest a site that explains how to set up and use a vernier height gauge? appreciate any help. Peter

When you mount a (fairly standard, from HF) live center in the tailstock, and have a small diameter workpiece, how do you arrange your tooling to be able to turn it? I have a TS Eng. QC toolpost. The large body of the live center prevents me to get close enough with the tool. If I extend the tool out, naturally it just flexes. I use a 5/16" indexable tool from LMS, the cheapie version. The workpiece is 3/8" or 1/2" steel rod. I think I read if you have more the 2-3 diameters extending from the chuck, you need to support the end. So anything over an inch or so needs support. Do I need to use a different tool holder for this type of work? t -- Regards, Rich ======================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... http://www.woodpens.com/rkleinhenz.htm http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rkleinhenz/vwp?.dir=/pens/ ========================================

I'm a retired engineer in the milwaukee area. Just bought a mini lathe from Frank who has a booth at 7 mile fair. I think its the same as the Homeier unit. I'm new at actually cutting metal, although I've had model makers build me things for years. I bought Joe Martin's book on Tabletop Machining. Turning metal to size is not too hard. When the tool comes, we'll see if i can cut inside threads. I'd love to hear from others in the milwaukee area and could use immediate advice on where to get small amoounts of material to turn Thanks mike Aita 414 962 1878