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Would any of you be able to point me to a decent online tutorial/reference of CAD drafting standards? Been a looonnnggg time since I've done any of this, and I want to re-learn the symbols for finish types, which lines to use for what, etc. Thanks, -Neil.

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims I used to shim the lathe? Thank you

Hi all, I thought you might be interested in our very low cost Frog CNC controller. The Frog controller is designed for lathes, mills, rotary tables, and a variety of custom applications. It adds precision and ease to your work. Drop by our site today at: http://www.emachineshop.com/frog/index.htm Regards, Tom Wolf eMachineShop.com

There was some talk of adjustable backplates a while back. Here's an update. I just completed an adjustable backplate for the 5" 3-jaw chuck sold by J&L Industrial. I posted a few pictures in the PHOTOS section in a folder called Adjustable Backplate. It was a fun project and I'm real happy with the results. The test sheet that came with the chuck showed TIR of .002". I verified this figure on my lathe too. With the adjustable backplate, I am able to easily reduce runout to well under .0005". (The needle on my dial test indicator was very stable. I posted a movie file of this in the FILE section, but it's a large file, so don't try downloading unless you have a broadband connection.) I used 12L14 steel for the backplate. Great stuff to machine! I made the spindle recesses in the backplate only about .008" oversize. I figured this would give me enough adjustment play to compensate for the chuck runout of .002". I used four 10-32 brass- tipped set screws for the adjustment capability. One of them is shown in one of the pictures. Here's a url to go to the photo folder http://tinyurl.com/6xpm Here's a url for the video showing the runout http://tinyurl.com/6xpt B Flint

Hi all, Until I decide which way I want to go with a lathe, would anyone here know if it's possible to (easily) fit a lathe chuck on a drill press? No, I don't intend to do any cutting/turning on the press, but I've had a local machine shop make me some parts recently, and I'd like to clean them up with sandpaper. If I could spin them, it would make life soooo much easier/nicer. And since I'm 90% sure I'll get a lathe eventually.... If easily doable, is there a standard for the size(s) of the chucks? Cheers, -Neil.

I recently purchased a 7 x 12 mini lathe, and so far it has been wonderful, I am very satisfied. I purchased a quick change tool holder from HF, and with a modification to the compound, now have easy tool height adjustment. The only tool I have problems with is the cut off tool. I am using a .062" x .5" HSS tool, cutting brass and Aluminum. I always seem to get terrible chatter. I made sure the saddle, cross slide and compound are very tight to the ways, but it still happens. Does anyone have any suggestions to make this better? I've not heard of anyone else complain about this, so I think it must be something I am doing. Thanks for your help, WD

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I am looking at a lathe that is set up to metric scale - the dials are all in metric gradations and so are the threads. How much of a problem is using such a machine if turning to Imperial measure? I want to make working model steam and internal combustion engines from castine kits and bar stock, and assume many of the kits are from overseas sources and come with metric drawings anyway... It is a nice machine otherwise and a good value... Thanks, Paul

For those not on the 7x10minilathe group: > Not too long back there were postings about adding a handwheel to the > spindle for threading, and to the leadscrew for slower feeds and finer > adjustments. > > I've come upon a source of cast aluminum handwheels for a very low > price. I can get them to the group members for $10.00 each, including > shipping. No ups, no extras. > > The handwheels are flat with 4 spokes, 7/16" thick, and 6" in diameter. > The hub is 1???" in diameter and protrudes 1/4" from one side of the > handwheel. There is a 7/16" square hole in the middle of the hub, with > a slight taper to it. > > If you're interested, please e-mail me off-forum to exchange mailing > information. I'll accept cash, check, or money order (I have a PayPal > account also, if you'd prefer that). I'll collect all the orders > through the end of this month (March), and mail them out the following > week. > > Hurry while supplies last! > > Graciously, > Jim > Lakewood, CA > All Hail Rube Goldberg! >

I have made a couple of small modifications to improve my 7 x12. Using a small piece of hyfax plastic from the junk box I made a flag for the tail stock so that I could mount a dial indicator and measure the depth of a hole I am boring. (photo in photo section) The dial indicator is a cheapy from Harbor Freight mounted on a magnet using a small piece of 3/4" aluminum angle. I have also added some short legs to boost the height of the lathe. My lathe sits on a counter height bench and placed it at the wrong height for me so I made short legs from 1 1/2" Aluminum to raise the lathe. Much better. (photo in photo section) Lee Brown

My name is Boris, I live in Jersey City, NJ. I need to build a prototype of my invention. Unfortunately, due to my recent relocation and long process of job seeking, my funds are not in good condition yet. I can't buy simple lathe I need now, and I'm looking for access to lathe belonging to somebody else. I'm a handyman, from my High school times I remember how to use lathe and I have some money to pay for the access or for parts manufacturing if it will be affordable to me. I do not have many friends here in NJ and nobody I know can tell me where I can access rotating lathe. All parts I want to make now are small (all dimensions less than 4 inches). I evaluate time I need as 6 - 8 hr of work. I will be grateful for advise regarding places in NJ/NY where rotating lathes might be accessible. Thanks Boris --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - establish your business online

I recently completed the Cam Action QCTP project described on mini- lathe.com. It works very well and I am very happy with it. I made a few changes you might want to consider if you decide to build it. I added a parting tool holder and changed the way the height adjusting screw is tensioned. The height adjusting screw tensioning described on mini-lathe.com would not work with the parting tool so I used a more traditional method on all the tool holders including the parting tool. Used a 3/4" 10-34 set screw threaded 1/4" into the tool holder. A knurled 3/16" thick adjusting screw is made from 1/2" brass rod. A split washer and 10/32 nut hold the adjusting screw in place. I used 4 screws to hold the tools in place rather than two. Made the cam shaft from 1/2" drill rod which allowed the use of 1/4" rod for the handle. I posted some fairly nice photos in the photos section. The close up photo of the parting tool (look at it in full size) should tell the story If anyone needs more info on the parting tool holder let me know. tom ...

I moved to this list from a similar one that suffered from an excess of Off Topic posts. I am hoping to participate in a list that is focused on the small chinese hobby lath. I have been machining as a hobby since starting in HS in 1953 and own a selection of machine tools. Bought my HF 7x10 at a garage sale for $100 last year. I have added a number of accessories from HF lacking only a four jaw chuck. the current effort is to eliminate the play and adjustment crudities in the machine and repair it up to optimum condition. Fortunatly having other machines will ease that project. Bill Williams (Bill in Boulder)

Hi: I have just completed the installation of a digital readout on my Grizzly 7 X 12 and could not be happier. I purchased the DRO from Zietlow Design off of the internet and got the Quill Kits for the machine off of Ebay. On the Zietlow website there are complete instructions on how to make the mounts required for the installation and how to set everything up. It is really nice to now be able to know exactly where your cutter is located on the x and y axis and not have to make a guess by reading the dials and worring about backlash. The entire project was completed for less than $250.00. I am placing some pictures in the photo section of the installation. Lee Brown

Hi, On the subject of storing a bench lathe, has anyone come up with a novel way of having a lathe bench and hauling crate combined. I am thinking of perhaps combining the two features so one can use the bottom of the crate for a lathe bench. Also combining features to make it easier to haul up a set of steps by the single user/mover would be really neat too. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Too_many_Tools

My 7x12 which is now 2.5 months old popped its fuse shortly after startup Friday, just as I was beginning a parting cut at low speed. I installed the replacement fuse and , with the speed control in the OFF position and the tool backed away, the lathe started as if it was at full speed and the fuse popped again in less than a second. This is a relatively new unit so I called Homier and they promised to call me back on Monday. I'm just wondering if this is a common problem; my understanding is the Homiers use an SCR based controller which is less prone to failure than the MOSFET types. My ckt board has a sticker with FC250J/110V and the large power devices are identified as K790 -- the board uses surface mount devices except for power handling which are thru-hole. Anybody have more info on the Homier controller? Up until this happened I was very happy with the controller since it allowed speed to be reduced to 12rpm, slower than most references in the 7x10 group specify. I did notice that when the speed control was in the OFF position that rotating the knob slightly(as alowed while OFF) made the chuck would move slightly and groan a bit. Since it seems to be live even while OFF I always turn the wall outlet off after use. John

Wednesday I was in Chehalis, WA to have lunch date with a woman I met at a dance. I told her HOMIER was having a sale there and she was pleased to go with me before we had lunch. We got there about 12:30 and they were still sticking stuff on the shelves. Our first pass through I saw a 7x12 lathe out of it's box. A little later we went by again and they had one in the box, I asked a worker if they'd help me get it in my truck, he said yes so I bought it for $299.99. Somebody put it in my truck, I blue tarped it and secured it and off to lunch. Later I cuddled with her leaving only when she had to get ready to have dinner with friends, as I told her, she is a very attractive lady for a guy with a new lathe to prefer to be with her than getting lathe home to clean and set up. I got home, pushed crap around on my workbench and managed to egt it up and then mounted feet and chip tray. Not much grease on it and that was red rather than the usual black gunky grease I have seen or worse the cosmoline found on surplus military rifles. I was careful to put all the paper towel grease wipers in outside garbage. I haven't turned it on yet, may be a few days. Seems a little silly to buy it since I already have a Unimat (originally bought in 1968) and an Enco 9x20 bought 13-14 years ago, But I wanted it. The only thing about buying it today was I had the pleasure today and I saved the $70 or more UPS charges and instead paid $25 sales tax. I had WLS nearly six months ago, had Lasiks eye surgery 12 days ago. I am starting community college after 35 years away from school, I don't need this lathe but i want it. I am already manufacturing rationales for it, one is my youngest brother is gaving me his 1980 Vanagon, now I have a lathe that will fit in it. I'll likely start out using drill chuck from the 9x20 and adapting things as I can. Who currently has best price on faceplates, 4-jaw chucks, #2MT drill chuck arbors? "Have lathe will travel" is the card of a man.... Anyway, I have a 7x 12 and am pleased. Larry Murray

I understand that cutting speeds published in the books are generally used for large machines, and that they are totally inappropriate for our 'toys'. (I have a 7x12). We should go by what feels right. I am looking for a little guidance here. Say I machine 3/8" or 1/2" 1018 steel. Where should I be approximately? I have an inexpensive indexable toolset from LMS. The surfaces I get are nothing to write home about... Can anyone with some experience steer me in the right direction? Should I always apply cutting oil? How much to remove in a pass? What speed? I am on the low range. What dial setting appr.? It seems easier to take a heftier cut than a small cut... something seems wrong ;-) Is there something like a lower limit for a lathe cut? I get by, because I don't need a good finish on these simple bushings I make, but I sure would like to do it better eventually. Thanks for any pointers! -- Regards, Rich ======================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... http://www.woodpens.com/rkleinhenz.htm http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rkleinhenz/vwp?.dir=/pens/ ========================================

Would anyone know where I can find an M9x0.5 metric tap? I checked MSC, J&L and Travers, I don't think any of the std places would have this. Is there someone specializing in out of the ordinary taps liek this? -- Regards, Rich ======================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... http://www.woodpens.com/rkleinhenz.htm http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rkleinhenz/vwp?.dir=/pens/ ========================================

Follow the link from the mini-lathe.com home page Frank Hoose http://www.mini-lathe.com