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Yet More Questions
Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
Hi,
I have a Clarke CL300M 7x12, which I have been using like the old 16x84 that I previously had and the strain is telling! I have replaced the line fuse with a proper strong one that is much easier to change the fuse. It has been running for a little while with a piece of fuse wire dangling until I got a replacement (fire hazard I know!).The old fuse broke off inside! Q1. I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's advice on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it stll wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea that it could be something else? Something bent? There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight part between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it? It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running dead centre. Q2. The new gib strips I have got don't have positioning marks on them. [I polished the original ones too small] Should I put marks into them and does it matter which side is the bearing strip? is there a way of knowing? All help appreciated Regards Ken |
Jerry Smith
Capt Ken,
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As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt driven things in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to run in an awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or a rough spot or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can cause the problem. You may want to inspect everything on this beast, to make sure it's properly working. The normal case is something is just noisy, in the extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks. Jerry Q1. |
Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
Hi Jerry,
Thanks for your response. I haven't had much dealings with belt drives, now I have two, lathe and band saw, so I am being ultra cautious I suppose. There is no noise and the belt has run quite heavily, pretty well every day for the last six months. It shows no wear on the 'teeth' of the belt, although I noticed this evening what 'could be' a little separation of the surface on the back of it. I have ordered some new ones but won't get them until the New Year, so I will try elsewhere, and change it anyway. I will take your advice and check everything else too. Regards Ken --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote: Capt Ken,things in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt torun in an awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or arough spot or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can causethe problem.sure it's properly working. The normal case is something is just noisy,in the extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.advice thaton setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it stll deadit could be something else? Something bent? centre. |
Jerry Smith
Ken,
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Some of my belt driven machinery, actual has something like an idler wheel on them. It allows some control of the belt. If you have seen some of the table top belt sanders I think they are 4 x 26 on the belt size and have a disc sander on the side. Check the belt control on it. you can get the belt to move side to side and tighten the tension. That should give you an idea for what you can do for belt control. I have a couple of belt clutches around the shop for future projects, it's and old technology, but it still does work on some machinery BTW what are a Captain in? Jerry At 12:34 AM 12/9/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Hi Jerry, |
Capt. Ken Appleby
Hi Jerry,
Thanks for that advice. I have just got one of the sanders you describe I will look at it tomorrow. In answer to your question, I'm a sea captain, my last ship was an Ocean tug of 4,600 tons, about the size of a destroyer! See it here- Cheers, captkenn / / /,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,|| &;):)=&;................... \ \'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''|| \ \ From: Jerry Smith <jfsmith@...> _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
Here's everything you ever want to know about timing belts, and
tons more trivia, besides: Basically, if the belt is centered on the pulleys, everything is fine. If the belt "walks" from one side to the other when you change from forward to reverse, the alignment is probably OK, but the twists/tensions of the reinforcing cords in the belt are not properly balanced. Of course, the vendor that claims that sells "premium" belts. Beware of idlers - if they ride on the outside of the belt, they shorten its life. Roy (Retired Navy engineering type trying to keep the words short enough for fresh air types.) --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby <captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote: Hi Jerry,it. I have ordered some new ones but won't get them until the New Year,driven thingscausein my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt torun in anawkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or arough spotor even out of round. There are so many minor things that can themakeproblem. surenoisy,it's properly working. The normal case is something is just in thestllextreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.advice partthatwants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this deadbetween the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it? |
Capt. Ken Appleby
Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing me to it! My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its done a half turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there, whether you reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when I get some spares to try. Regards, Ken [A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o) ER Chiefs could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines - A very strange animal indeed!] / / /,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,|| &;):)=&;................... \ \'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''|| \ \ From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* |
Ken,
The belt always going to the same side sounds like the motor shaft is not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group, J.W. Early posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignment easier. IIRC, it was within the last month or so. Roy (A USN type who was simultaneously "Special Sea & Anchor Detail OOD" and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 different places at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believed my snipes were as competent as I claimed!) --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt. Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote: Hi Roy,to it! done a half turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there, whetheryou reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when Iget some spares to try.Chiefs could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines -A very strange animal indeed!] |
Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
Hi Roy,
It WAS the motor out of alignment,but such a tiny amount you wold hardly credit!! The new brass cross slide nut and gibs fitted and it is great now Regards Ken --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: Ken,is not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group, J.W.easier. IIRC, it was within the last month or so.OOD" and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 differentplaces at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believedmy snipes were as competent as I claimed!)me to it!whetherdone a half youERreverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when Iget somespares to try. Chiefscould never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines - A verystrange animal indeed!] |
Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several frustrating days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer adjustments :-) Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby <captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote: Hi Roy,shaft isJ.W.not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group, IEarly posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignmenteasier.IIRC, it was within the last month or so.OOD" engines -get someERspares to try. _________________________________________________________________A verystrange animal indeed!] MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* |
Jerry Smith
Ken and Roy,
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The art and the talent for using a hammer to align something has been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop. Everything from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some times I have to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work. As that I come from the blacksmithing side of the world, I view things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring the energy of the tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy. But I never had any luck with pry bars, I seem to not have the touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing that kind of process. Jerry At 04:23 AM 12/16/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Ken, |
Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
Hi Jerry,
I have no problems at all with hammers, as I too have many of them, about half of them of the panel beating kind plus big ones and tiny ones including a copper one and a rubber one. I used to do a lot of panel beating with my motor racing (:o( But even parts of a lathe can take a copper or rubber hammer in the right hands. I also used to build model ships up to 4 feet long from brass sheet. Regards Ken --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote: Ken and Roy,something has been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop.Everything from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some timesI have to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.view things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring theenergy of the tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.the touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing thatkind of process.frustrating days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The |
Jerry,
I wasn't impugning hammers or hammer craftsmen - I was impugning the lathe designer(s) who didn't include jackscrews for motor alignment. Tapping or prying something into alignment is needlessly slow when pattern draft forces it out alignment when the hold-down bolts are fully tightened. I've got a moderate collection of them, and can't imagine working without them. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote: Ken and Roy,something has been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop.Everything from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some timesI have to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.view things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring theenergy of the tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.the touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing thatkind of process.frustrating days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The |
Jerry Smith
Roy,
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Hammer alignment is such a wonderful things, but design engineers never seem to have to adjust or fix anything they design. The first time I took a hammer to a piece of shop equipment with some friends over, they thought I was going to destroy my drill press. One have tap and it was where I wanted it to be. Since then I have added a mill type table to the drill press and X-Y type of drill press vise, but not at the same time for usage. The first time I used an inertia bullet extractor around one of my friends, they thought it was going to go off and with a big bang. These are the type that look like a hammer. It has a collet that hold the rim of the case, you whack the floor with it and the bullet pops out of the case. Hammers can be your friend! Jerry At 04:23 AM 12/17/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Jerry, |
Jerry,
I actually can be considered to be a design engineer - I'm one of the rare MEs that had lots of shop experience before getting a degree. I'm also one of the rare MEs that can handle sharp, pointy objects without hurting himself :-) The tools that are always on a corner of the bench, to handle anything, include: an 8oz brass hammer, a utility knife, a 3/16" flat screwdriver, a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a pair of electricians scissors and a ratty 1/8" screwdriver/prybar/chisel. Inertial bullet pullers are cool - they work perfectly and look like a disaster-in-progress. Gaah, I'm not bad mouthing hammers or their users - I happily use them. What I am bad-mouthing is the use of hammers where a screw would be a better choice! Let's not fall into the trap of thinking everything looks like a nail, because the only tool we own is a hammer! Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote: Roy,engineers never seem to have to adjust or fix anything they design. The firsttime I took a hammer to a piece of shop equipment with some friends over,they thought I was going to destroy my drill press. One have tap and itwas where I wanted it to be. Since then I have added a mill type tableto the drill press and X-Y type of drill press vise, but not at the sametime for usage.one of my friends, they thought it was going to go off and with a big bang.These are the type that look like a hammer. It has a collet that hold the rimof the case, you whack the floor with it and the bullet pops out of thecase. Hammers can be your friend!impugning needlesslythe lathe designer(s) who didn't include jackscrews for motor workingslow when pattern draft forces it out alignment when the hold-down without them. |
Jerry Smith
Roy,
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Strange, I am a Regional Planner for Telecommunications, I used to teach it at university. The last few years, we did not have pencils and paper, we had computers. So you have the knowledge to say "what kind of idiot designed this?" :-> Jerry At 07:31 AM 12/17/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Jerry, |
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