Yet More Questions


Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
 

Hi,
I have a Clarke CL300M 7x12, which I have been using like the old
16x84 that I previously had and the strain is telling! I have
replaced the line fuse with a proper strong one that is much easier
to change the fuse. It has been running for a little while with a
piece of fuse wire dangling until I got a replacement (fire hazard I
know!).The old fuse broke off inside!

Q1.
I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off
centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's advice
on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it stll
wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this
adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea that
it could be something else? Something bent?

There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight part
between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it?
It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running dead
centre.

Q2.
The new gib strips I have got don't have positioning marks on them.
[I polished the original ones too small] Should I put marks into them
and does it matter which side is the bearing strip? is there a way of
knowing?
All help appreciated
Regards
Ken


Jerry Smith
 

Capt Ken,
As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt driven things in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to run in an awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or a rough spot or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can cause the problem.
You may want to inspect everything on this beast, to make sure it's properly working. The normal case is something is just noisy, in the extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.

Jerry

Q1.
I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off
centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's advice
on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it stll
wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this
adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea that
it could be something else? Something bent?

There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight part
between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it?
It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running dead
centre.


Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
 

Hi Jerry,
Thanks for your response. I haven't had much dealings with belt
drives, now I have two, lathe and band saw, so I am being ultra
cautious I suppose. There is no noise and the belt has run quite
heavily, pretty well every day for the last six months. It shows no
wear on the 'teeth' of the belt, although I noticed this evening
what 'could be' a little separation of the surface on the back of it.
I have ordered some new ones but won't get them until the New Year,
so I will try elsewhere, and change it anyway. I will take your
advice and check everything else too.
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Capt Ken,
As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt driven
things
in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to
run in an
awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or a
rough spot
or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can cause
the
problem.
You may want to inspect everything on this beast, to make
sure
it's properly working. The normal case is something is just noisy,
in the
extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.

Jerry


Q1.
I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off
centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's
advice
on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it stll
wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this
adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea
that
it could be something else? Something bent?

There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight part
between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it?
It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running
dead
centre.


Jerry Smith
 

Ken,
Some of my belt driven machinery, actual has something like an idler wheel on them. It allows some control of the belt. If you have seen some of the table top belt sanders I think they are 4 x 26 on the belt size and have a disc sander on the side. Check the belt control on it. you can get the belt to move side to side and tighten the tension.
That should give you an idea for what you can do for belt control. I have a couple of belt clutches around the shop for future projects, it's and old technology, but it still does work on some machinery
BTW what are a Captain in?

Jerry

At 12:34 AM 12/9/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Hi Jerry,
Thanks for your response. I haven't had much dealings with belt
drives, now I have two, lathe and band saw, so I am being ultra
cautious I suppose. There is no noise and the belt has run quite
heavily, pretty well every day for the last six months. It shows no
wear on the 'teeth' of the belt, although I noticed this evening
what 'could be' a little separation of the surface on the back of it.
I have ordered some new ones but won't get them until the New Year,
so I will try elsewhere, and change it anyway. I will take your
advice and check everything else too.
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Capt Ken,
As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt driven
things
in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to
run in an


Capt. Ken Appleby
 

Hi Jerry,
Thanks for that advice. I have just got one of the sanders you
describe I will look at it tomorrow.

In answer to your question, I'm a sea captain, my last ship was an Ocean tug
of 4,600 tons, about the size of a destroyer! See it here-




Cheers,
captkenn
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
&;):)=&;...................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;





From: Jerry Smith <jfsmith@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 20:04:39 -0500

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

Here's everything you ever want to know about timing belts, and
tons more trivia, besides:

Basically, if the belt is centered on the pulleys, everything is
fine. If the belt "walks" from one side to the other when you change
from forward to reverse, the alignment is probably OK, but the
twists/tensions of the reinforcing cords in the belt are not properly
balanced. Of course, the vendor that claims that sells "premium"
belts. Beware of idlers - if they ride on the outside of the belt,
they shorten its life.

Roy
(Retired Navy engineering type trying to keep the words short enough
for fresh air types.)

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:
Hi Jerry,
Thanks for your response. I haven't had much dealings with belt
drives, now I have two, lathe and band saw, so I am being ultra
cautious I suppose. There is no noise and the belt has run quite
heavily, pretty well every day for the last six months. It shows no
wear on the 'teeth' of the belt, although I noticed this evening
what 'could be' a little separation of the surface on the back of
it.
I have ordered some new ones but won't get them until the New Year,
so I will try elsewhere, and change it anyway. I will take your
advice and check everything else too.
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Capt Ken,
As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt
driven
things
in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to
run in an
awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or a
rough spot
or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can
cause
the
problem.
You may want to inspect everything on this beast, to
make
sure
it's properly working. The normal case is something is just
noisy,
in the
extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.

Jerry


Q1.
I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off
centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's
advice
on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it
stll
wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this
adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea
that
it could be something else? Something bent?

There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight
part
between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it?
It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running
dead
centre.


Capt. Ken Appleby
 

Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing me to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its done a half
turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there, whether you
reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when I get some
spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o) ER Chiefs
could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines - A very
strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
&;):)=&;...................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;






From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*


 

Ken,
The belt always going to the same side sounds like the motor shaft is
not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group, J.W.
Early posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignment easier.
IIRC, it was within the last month or so.

Roy
(A USN type who was simultaneously "Special Sea & Anchor Detail OOD"
and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 different places
at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believed my
snipes were as competent as I claimed!)
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt. Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@m...> wrote:
Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing me
to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its
done a half
turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there, whether
you
reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when I
get some
spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o) ER
Chiefs
could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines -
A very
strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
&;):)=&;¶¶¶¶...................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;






From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*




Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
 

Hi Roy,
It WAS the motor out of alignment,but such a tiny amount you wold
hardly credit!!

The new brass cross slide nut and gibs fitted and it is great now
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:
Ken,
The belt always going to the same side sounds like the motor shaft
is
not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group, J.W.
Early posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignment
easier.
IIRC, it was within the last month or so.

Roy
(A USN type who was simultaneously "Special Sea & Anchor Detail
OOD"
and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 different
places
at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believed
my
snipes were as competent as I claimed!)
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt. Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@m...> wrote:
Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing
me
to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its
done a half
turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there,
whether
you
reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when I
get some
spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o)
ER
Chiefs
could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines -
A very
strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
&;):)=&;¶¶¶¶...................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;






From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several frustrating
days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The
only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer
adjustments :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:
Hi Roy,
It WAS the motor out of alignment,but such a tiny amount you wold
hardly credit!!

The new brass cross slide nut and gibs fitted and it is great now
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:
Ken,
The belt always going to the same side sounds like the motor
shaft
is
not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group,
J.W.
Early posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignment
easier.
IIRC, it was within the last month or so.

Roy
(A USN type who was simultaneously "Special Sea & Anchor Detail
OOD"
and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 different
places
at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believed
my
snipes were as competent as I claimed!)
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt. Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@m...> wrote:
Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing
me
to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its
done a half
turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there,
whether
you
reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when
I
get some
spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o)
ER
Chiefs
could never understand me - a deck type who built racing
engines -

A very
strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
&;):)=&;¶¶¶¶...................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;






From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Jerry Smith
 

Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align something has been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop. Everything from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some times I have to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.
As that I come from the blacksmithing side of the world, I view things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring the energy of the tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.
But I never had any luck with pry bars, I seem to not have the touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing that kind of process.

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/16/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several frustrating
days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The
only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer
adjustments :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby


Capt Ken Appleby <[email protected]>
 

Hi Jerry,
I have no problems at all with hammers, as I too have many of them,
about half of them of the panel beating kind plus big ones and tiny
ones including a copper one and a rubber one. I used to do a lot of
panel beating with my motor racing (:o( But even parts of a lathe can
take a copper or rubber hammer in the right hands. I also used to
build model ships up to 4 feet long from brass sheet.
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align
something has
been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop.
Everything
from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some times
I have
to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.
As that I come from the blacksmithing side of the world, I
view
things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring the
energy of the
tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.
But I never had any luck with pry bars, I seem to not have
the
touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing that
kind of
process.

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/16/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several
frustrating
days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The
only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer
adjustments :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby


 

Jerry,
I wasn't impugning hammers or hammer craftsmen - I was impugning
the lathe designer(s) who didn't include jackscrews for motor
alignment. Tapping or prying something into alignment is needlessly
slow when pattern draft forces it out alignment when the hold-down
bolts are fully tightened.
I've got a moderate collection of them, and can't imagine working
without them.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align
something has
been around for many years. I have 60 plus hammers in my shop.
Everything
from a 4 ounce inertia hammer to 12 pound sledge hammer. Some times
I have
to make a tool or jig to guide the energy, but it does work.
As that I come from the blacksmithing side of the world, I
view
things differently. A light tap can do wonders, measuring the
energy of the
tap is difficult, measuring the results is easy.
But I never had any luck with pry bars, I seem to not have
the
touch for that kind of work, I generally break things in doing that
kind of
process.

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/16/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Ken,
I do believe. I spent hours and hours, over several
frustrating
days until I got mine close enough to objectively leave alone. The
only thing I hate more than pry bar adjustments is hammer
adjustments :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby


Jerry Smith
 

Roy,
Hammer alignment is such a wonderful things, but design engineers never seem to have to adjust or fix anything they design. The first time I took a hammer to a piece of shop equipment with some friends over, they thought I was going to destroy my drill press. One have tap and it was where I wanted it to be. Since then I have added a mill type table to the drill press and X-Y type of drill press vise, but not at the same time for usage.
The first time I used an inertia bullet extractor around one of my friends, they thought it was going to go off and with a big bang. These are the type that look like a hammer. It has a collet that hold the rim of the case, you whack the floor with it and the bullet pops out of the case.
Hammers can be your friend!

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/17/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Jerry,
I wasn't impugning hammers or hammer craftsmen - I was impugning
the lathe designer(s) who didn't include jackscrews for motor
alignment. Tapping or prying something into alignment is needlessly
slow when pattern draft forces it out alignment when the hold-down
bolts are fully tightened.
I've got a moderate collection of them, and can't imagine working
without them.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align
something has


 

Jerry,
I actually can be considered to be a design engineer - I'm one of
the rare MEs that had lots of shop experience before getting a
degree. I'm also one of the rare MEs that can handle sharp, pointy
objects without hurting himself :-)
The tools that are always on a corner of the bench, to handle
anything, include: an 8oz brass hammer, a utility knife, a 3/16" flat
screwdriver, a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a pair of electricians
scissors and a ratty 1/8" screwdriver/prybar/chisel.
Inertial bullet pullers are cool - they work perfectly and look
like a disaster-in-progress.
Gaah, I'm not bad mouthing hammers or their users - I happily use
them. What I am bad-mouthing is the use of hammers where a screw
would be a better choice! Let's not fall into the trap of thinking
everything looks like a nail, because the only tool we own is a
hammer!
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Roy,
Hammer alignment is such a wonderful things, but design
engineers
never seem to have to adjust or fix anything they design. The first
time I
took a hammer to a piece of shop equipment with some friends over,
they
thought I was going to destroy my drill press. One have tap and it
was
where I wanted it to be. Since then I have added a mill type table
to the
drill press and X-Y type of drill press vise, but not at the same
time for
usage.
The first time I used an inertia bullet extractor around
one of my
friends, they thought it was going to go off and with a big bang.
These are
the type that look like a hammer. It has a collet that hold the rim
of the
case, you whack the floor with it and the bullet pops out of the
case.
Hammers can be your friend!

Jerry

At 04:23 AM 12/17/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Jerry,
I wasn't impugning hammers or hammer craftsmen - I was
impugning
the lathe designer(s) who didn't include jackscrews for motor
alignment. Tapping or prying something into alignment is
needlessly
slow when pattern draft forces it out alignment when the hold-down
bolts are fully tightened.
I've got a moderate collection of them, and can't imagine
working
without them.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:
Ken and Roy,
The art and the talent for using a hammer to align
something has


Jerry Smith
 

Roy,
Strange, I am a Regional Planner for Telecommunications, I used to teach it at university. The last few years, we did not have pencils and paper, we had computers. So you have the knowledge to say "what kind of idiot designed this?" :->

Jerry

At 07:31 AM 12/17/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Jerry,
I actually can be considered to be a design engineer - I'm one of
the rare MEs that had lots of shop experience before getting a
degree. I'm also one of the rare MEs that can handle sharp, pointy
objects without hurting himself :-)
The tools that are always on a corner of the bench, to