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Here a white lead sub for dead centers and bevel gears in scroll chucks. (Do use on scroll side of chuck 5w or 10w)
I used since the 1970's
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FYI.?
When used it only a coating do not pack chuck. Just use a soldering brush on the geat teeth. I little is all you need.
Dave?
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It's a grease substitute?
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?I first started using oil and grease later antiseize.?
I want to try white lead to see how work and found EEZ lead substitute. It work great.?
It is cleaner than antiseize too.?
Dave?
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Paul Fox
6:08am? ?
It's a grease substitute?
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Having messed around with molybdenum disulfide I agree that it stains the skin and is inherently very dark colored.? If that grease doesn't look very dark It may have a different kind of dry lubricant in it.? One that comes to mind is hexagonal boron nitride.? Like carbon, boron nitride can have different crystalline forms.? Diamond is hard but graphite isn't.? Cubic boron ntride (CBN) is very hard but hexagonal BN is soft enough that it's used as a dry lubricant:??,? It's white in color.
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??? ??? Just about anything is cleaner that antiseize unless ya
like the tin man look
On 1/20/24 7:33 AM, davesmith1800
wrote:
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?I first started using oil and grease later antiseize.?
I want to try white lead to see how work and found EEZ lead
substitute. It work great.?
It is cleaner than antiseize too.?
Dave?
Paul Fox
6:08am? ?
It's a grease substitute?
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Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won’t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work.
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mike allen
Jan 20? ?
? ? ? ? Just about anything is cleaner that antiseize unless ya like the tin man look
I can only think one thing worst is open gear lubrication.?? My 2 cans antiseize is happy on shelf and may age like a fine wine ?? Dave?
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OldToolmaker Jan 20? ?
Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won’t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work
I alway lub chucks? Some took oil others use grease.? I do use WD-40 because of tight tolerances on small chucks.? After lubrication of chuck I put shield down on the chuch and turn lathe on high speed for minute to remove any extra lubrication so does not get on me.? You never want metal to metal on a new or old lathe. The lub has film between the metals keep the lathe new for long time. Dave?
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An interesting observation.
My Pratt Burnerd Grip-Tru chuck was supplied from new with the cavity well-filled with a graphite type grease.? Did they do so hoping for an early demise of their product, I wonder.
Dave The Emerald Isle
On Sunday, 21 January 2024 at 03:26:12 GMT, OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won’t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work.
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David Everett
8:43am? ?
An interesting observation.
My Pratt Burnerd Grip-Tru chuck was supplied from new with the cavity well-filled with a graphite type grease. Did they do so hoping for an early demise of their product, I wonder.
Dave
The Emerald Isle
They do that so chuck last a long time and machinist are well known avoiding any lub.? Dave
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Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. ? But there are many different formulations. ?Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain. ?Also the chain is made of plates and pins that have very tight press-fit tolerances and you want the lubricant to get inside the chain between the pin and the plate. ? The kind I like is made of wax dissolved in a solvent. ?The solvent carries the wax into the small spaces, flushes out dirt and then evaporates completely in 24 hours leaving just the wax. ? ? This works but is short-lived and on my road bike lasts only about 150 to 200 miles or a couple weeks.
There are all kinds of chain sub, in squeeze bottles and spray n even in bulk containers. ?There is also a wide range of kinds, some is designed to last longer and some is designed by less of a dirt magnet. ?It works on tools lust like it does on a chain. ? Gets into small spaces and chips and dirt do not stick to it. ? But one thing, this is what you use whaen you are finished, because it does take time for the solvent to flash off, use it to clean up, not just before you start working.
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On Jan 21, 2024, at 7:18?AM, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
OldToolmaker Jan 20? ?
Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won’t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work
I alway lub chucks? Some took oil others use grease.? I do use WD-40 because of tight tolerances on small chucks.? After lubrication of chuck I put shield down on the chuch and turn lathe on high speed for minute to remove any extra lubrication so does not get on me.? You never want metal to metal on a new or old lathe. The lub has film between the metals keep the lathe new for long time. Dave?
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Chris Albertson
10:04am? ?
Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. But there are many different formulations. Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain. Also the chain is made of plates and pins that have very tight press-fit tolerances and you want the lubricant to get inside the chain between the pin and the plate. The kind I like is made of wax dissolved in a solvent. The solvent carries the wax into the small spaces, flushes out dirt and then evaporates completely in 24 hours leaving just the wax. This works but is short-lived and on my road bike lasts only about 150 to 200 miles or a couple weeks.
There are all kinds of chain sub, in squeeze bottles and spray n even in bulk containers. There is also a wide range of kinds, some is designed to last longer and some is designed by less of a dirt magnet. It works on tools lust like it does on a chain. Gets into small spaces and chips and dirt do not stick to it. But one thing, this is what you use whaen you are finished, because it does take time for the solvent to flash off, use it to clean up, not just before you start working.
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If I remember that oil it is very fine oil.? It would good for chucks and tool posts.? Any thing with a very close fit. Dave?
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Chris Albertson
10:04am? ?
Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. But there are many different formulations. Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain
There are a few basics to lubrication.? Most oil only last 2 hours it run off. This why way lubrication it is has a additive to hold place for more that 4 hours.? Tighter the tolerance the thiner the oil or low viscosity .? Do not use wayoil on oil impregnated bronze. It will plug the bronze.?? Grease is use because oil will run away. Dave?
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??? ??? It's gettin up in the fine wine $$ range per oz , but it
sure is nice when ya take something apart with on there . MY dump
truck , is a 1966 GMC . The guy I got it from had no idea if he
had ever done brakes in cept for right after he bought if from a
county auction , that was @ 72-73 .
He used it daily for a few years & decided it was cheaper to
have a guy bring a transfer or end dump they his 5-6 loads to move
the same materiel . SO it spent its year's parked & if needed
he would slide a water tank in the bed & use it for watering
down his roads . When I to check the brakes after he gave me the
truck I bet it was 6 days off & on pounding & soaking till
I finally got all 4 drums off . Kroil was the last hand full of
soaks that finally got them loose . I asked him why he didn't use
Antiseize & he said he didn't know about it at the time .
Antiseize would have made all that work unnecessary . I used open
gear lube when I got my first lathe , took some time but finally I
put a 5 gallon bucket oh the left side of the lathe to keep me
from walkin too close & gettin that crap all over my clothes?
. It is some sticky stuff . I was going to try chain saw bar oil
to see how that worked , but I ended up pulling that headstock
apart & I can not find a replacement thrust bearing for it .
??? animal
On 1/21/24 6:53 AM, davesmith1800
wrote:
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mike allen
Jan 20? ?
? ? ? ? Just about anything is cleaner that antiseize
unless ya like the tin man look
I can only think one thing worst is open gear lubrication.??
My 2 cans antiseize is happy on shelf and may age like a fine wine
??
Dave?
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As I wrote. ?The stuff is not “oil”. ?It is wax is a solvent. ?Oil would attract dirt. ?The stuff I use trades off a short lifetime for being very clean. ? You can also find brands that try to be longer lasting but they are oil-based and attack dirt.
Yes, a kids bike might have some oil-based lube on the chain because oil is cheap and will last a long time. ?But more serious riders will want their drive train to literally pass a white glove test and have reduced friction and are willing to re-apply every 200 or so miles. (Every couple weeks.)
Boeshield T9 is used in aerospace and is kind of the same stuff, wax in a solvent that leaves water water-resistant coating.
My point was that I just happen to have chain lube in the garage and it is designed for exactly what I want, lube and water repellent that nothing sticks to. ? Even lite oil is sticky. ? THis is why you put wax and not oil on the painted parts of your car.
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On Jan 21, 2024, at 11:17?AM, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
Chris Albertson
10:04am? ?
Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. But there are many different formulations. Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain. Also the chain is made of plates and pins that have very tight press-fit tolerances and you want the lubricant to get inside the chain between the pin and the plate. The kind I like is made of wax dissolved in a solvent. The solvent carries the wax into the small spaces, flushes out dirt and then evaporates completely in 24 hours leaving just the wax. This works but is short-lived and on my road bike lasts only about 150 to 200 miles or a couple weeks.
There are all kinds of chain sub, in squeeze bottles and spray n even in bulk containers. There is also a wide range of kinds, some is designed to last longer and some is designed by less of a dirt magnet. It works on tools lust like it does on a chain. Gets into small spaces and chips and dirt do not stick to it. But one thing, this is what you use whaen you are finished, because it does take time for the solvent to flash off, use it to clean up, not just before you start working.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
?Reply Unlike More
?You liked this
previous pageView All 12 Messages In Topicnext pageprevious page#118470next page?
If I remember that oil it is very fine oil.? It would good for chucks and tool posts.? Any thing with a very close fit. Dave?
|
Brings back memories of "cooking" my bike chain in melted paraffin (US usage - wax)? when I was bicycle commuting ;-)
The important part was to put a piece of wire through one end of the chain to make it painless to remove from the molten wax in an improvised double boiler.
Roy
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People still do this. ?It works well. ?Wax is a good lubricant and dirt just falls off of it. ?But this method is not practical for machine tools. ?Even for bikes, it is a big hassle. ?Easier to buy the wax/solvent mix and just drip it on and then wipe off as much as you can.
I think a lot of the suggestions for how to care for and lube machine tools are from the old days when these machines were used every day in factories. ?A hobby machine is. likey to spend the majority of its time powered off.
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On Jan 21, 2024, at 6:37?PM, Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
Brings back memories of "cooking" my bike chain in melted paraffin (US usage - wax)? when I was bicycle commuting ;-)
The important part was to put a piece of wire through one end of the chain to make it painless to remove from the molten wax in an improvised double boiler.
Roy
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??? ??? Are brass chains still the big deal on road bikes ?
??? animal
On 1/21/24 7:53 PM, Chris Albertson
wrote:
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People still do this. ?It works well. ?Wax is a good lubricant and
dirt just falls off of it. ?But this method is not practical for
machine tools. ?Even for bikes, it is a big hassle. ?Easier to buy
the wax/solvent mix and just drip it on and then wipe off as much
as you can.
I think a lot of the suggestions for how to care for and lube
machine tools are from the old days when these machines were
used every day in factories. ?A hobby machine is. likey to spend
the majority of its time powered off.
Brings back memories of "cooking" my bike chain in
melted paraffin (US usage - wax)? when I was bicycle
commuting ;-)
The important part was to put a piece of wire through one
end of the chain to make it painless to remove from the
molten wax in an improvised double boiler.
Roy
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mike allen
8:10pm? ?
? ? ? ? Are brass chains still the big deal on road bikes ?
? ? animal
On bikes do ever use gear drive like do on motorcycles? Dave?
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davesmith1800
OldToolmaker