Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14

Brice D. Hornback - KA8MAV #1 Hello. What's the best way to chuck material in a lathe without it getting all scratched, dinged, and gouged up? I've been finding, especially with brass, that I have to tighten it in the chuck very tightly to keep it in there... which puts deep indentations in the brass stock. Is there a way to prevent this if I were turning something that couldn't just have the end cut off? Thanks, Brice
Frank Hoose All Messages By This Member #2 Make a sleeve out of some aluminum flashing, or just use small pieces of flashing under each jaw to protect the workpiece. Some guys cut up alumimum beer or soda cans for this purpose. Frank Hoose --- "Brice D. Hornback - KA8MAV" <bdh@...> wrote: Hello. What's the best way to chuck material in a lathe without it getting all scratched, dinged, and gouged up? I've been finding, especially with brass, that I have to tighten it in the chuck very tightly to keep it in there... which puts deep indentations in the brass stock. Is there a way to prevent this if I were turning something that couldn't just have the end cut off? Thanks, Brice ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
Brice D. Hornback #3 That's exactly what I was looking for. THANKS! - Brice toggle quoted message Show quoted text ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:25 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14 Make a sleeve out of some aluminum flashing, or just use small pieces of flashing under each jaw to protect the workpiece. Some guys cut up alumimum beer or soda cans for this purpose. s Frank Hoose --- "Brice D. Hornback - KA8MAV" <bdh@...> wrote: Hello. What's the best way to chuck material in a lathe without it getting all scratched, dinged, and gouged up? I've been finding, especially with brass, that I have to tighten it in the chuck very tightly to keep it in there... which puts deep indentations in the brass stock. Is there a way to prevent this if I were turning something that couldn't just have the end cut off? Thanks, Brice ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
Smurf707 #35 Cardbaord I have used, although that may not have a whole lot of precision when u do that so pop cans or some thing along those lines sounds like the best best. Sean toggle quoted message Show quoted text ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@y...> To: <7x12minilathe@y...> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:25 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14 Make a sleeve out of some aluminum flashing, or just use small pieces of flashing under each jaw to protect the workpiece. Some guys cut up alumimum beer or soda cans for this purpose. lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Chucks/Back_plate/back_plate_2.htm#Stud s Frank Hoose --- "Brice D. Hornback - KA8MAV" <bdh@c...> wrote: Hello. What's the best way to chuck material in a lathe without it getting all scratched, dinged, and gouged up? I've been finding, especially with brass, that I have to tighten it in the chuck very tightly to keep it in there... which puts deep indentations in the brass stock. Is there a way to prevent this if I were turning something that couldn't just have the end cut off? Thanks, Brice ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@y... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@y... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
Paul W. Chamberlain #43 I use brass strips from the local hobby shop. They come in 12" length, different thickness and widths. I cut them to size and form them around the jaws like a second skin. That way I don't need four hands to tighten the material in the chuck. If you heat the brass with a propane torch until red then quench it in water, it will anneal (soften) it and it is real easy to form. Paul, Central OR Smurf707 wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Cardbaord I have used, although that may not have a whole lot of precision when u do that so pop cans or some thing along those lines sounds like the best best. Sean ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@y...> To: <7x12minilathe@y...> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:25 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14 Make a sleeve out of some aluminum flashing, or just use small pieces of flashing under each jaw to protect the workpiece. Some guys cut up alumimum beer or soda cans for this purpose.
Roy All Messages By This Member #115693 A wrap or 2 of adhesive backed aluminum tape (real duct tape) around the work or on the ends of the chuck jaws. Pet peeve - there's no need to quench brass to anneal it! About the only things you're likely to run across that are affected by quenching are iron alloys & a few aluminum alloys; everything else can be cooled at any rate by whatever is the most convenient, keeping in mind that quenching can warp things. Roy
MZ Rider All Messages By This Member #116010 So long as the material between jaw and material is the same on all three it is just convenience. I suspect most use drink can aluminium or tinplate.
Mark Kimball All Messages By This Member #116015 " If you heat the brass with a propane torch until red then quench it in water, it will anneal (soften) it and it is real easy to form." It CAN be useful to heat brass, copper and aluminum if they've been work hardened.? Due to the manufacturing process some of these materials may be work hardened right out of the chute, so annealing them does make some sense.? The quenching part isn't needed (or desired). I know that brass can have some built-in stress because I made some brass gibs and they warped after I machined them.? Baking in a 500F oven helped a little bit, but since most brass contains lead it's not a good idea to do it in your kitchen oven.? I have a little toaster oven dedicated for stuff like that. I haven't come across any aluminum that had a noticeable amount of stress but I pretty much just use 6061 or the hardware stuff. Mark
kaje7777 All Messages By This Member #116020 I had the same experience of having brass gibs warping after machining, so I did some research on the topic. You can find the discussion and references here : https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/machining---lathes-mills-etc/brass---stress-relieving
Miket_NYC All Messages By This Member #116049 I save my beer cans for just this purpose.... Mike Taglieri? toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Mon, Apr 4, 2022, 4:48 AM MZ Rider <mztraveller@...> wrote: So long as the material between jaw and material is the same on all three it is just convenience. I suspect most use drink can aluminium or tinplate.
Mark Kimball All Messages By This Member #116050 On Mon, Apr 4, 2022 at 03:27 PM, kaje7777 wrote: I had the same experience of having brass gibs warping after machining, so I did some research on the topic. You can find the discussion and references here : https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/machining---lathes-mills-etc/brass---stress-relieving That's the information I used in my attempt to stress-relieve my brass :).

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Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14