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All good advice! Think before you act!? ?Bill
Hi Kurt, sorry for the late reply. On my hobby lathe, I can easily fit a 25 dia by 200 mm bar. Between centres, I can fit a 300 mm long bar. ? The point I was making, that whatever lathe you have, there is bound to be an item too long (Murphy’s law). ? We need to think of ways around the problem, some my suggestions are – Use a faceplate Between centres Divide the item in 2 and screw together. If it can go though the headstock spindle, machine section by section, then turn end for end and continue Re-design the item to remove the problem ? There are probably other solutions I have not needed to use – yet !!! ? HTH ??????????? Ellis ? ? ? "It may help to use a faceplate. Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives." While the latter statement is true, in situations where the work is too long for the lathe's bed, a faceplate mounting is unlikely to help.? (Example: Working a 1-inch diameter x 8 inch long bar.) If buying one of our hobby lathes, get the longest bed you can afford.
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Hi Kurt, sorry for the late reply. On my hobby lathe, I can easily fit a 25 dia by 200 mm bar. Between centres, I can fit a 300 mm long bar. ? The point I was making, that whatever lathe you have, there is bound to be an item too long (Murphy’s law). ? We need to think of ways around the problem, some my suggestions are – Use a faceplate Between centres Divide the item in 2 and screw together. If it can go though the headstock spindle, machine section by section, then turn end for end and continue Re-design the item to remove the problem ? There are probably other solutions I have not needed to use – yet !!! ? HTH ??????????? Ellis ? ? ? "It may help to use a faceplate. Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives." While the latter statement is true, in situations where the work is too long for the lathe's bed, a faceplate mounting is unlikely to help.? (Example: Working a 1-inch diameter x 8 inch long bar.) If buying one of our hobby lathes, get the longest bed you can afford.
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"It may help to use a faceplate. Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives."
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While the latter statement is true, in situations where the work is too long for the lathe's bed, a faceplate mounting is unlikely to help.? (Example: Working a 1-inch diameter x 8 inch long bar.)
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If buying one of our hobby lathes, get the longest bed you can afford.
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Kurt Laughlin
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Hi everyone. It may help to use a faceplate. ? Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives. ? ???????????? Ellis ? ? ? Using a collet only helps in SOME cases.? The part would usually have to be round and small enough diameter to fit the collet.? Therefore, as a solution to the length problem, the value of collets is limited.? A longer bed is the only universal solution for a too short bed. Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
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Using a collet only helps in SOME cases.? The part would usually have to be round and small enough diameter to fit the collet.? Therefore, as a solution to the length problem, the value of collets is limited.? A longer bed is the only universal solution for a too short bed.
Charels E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 11:36:38 AM PST, David Wiseman <david@...> wrote:
Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
On 16 Dec 2024, at 07:30, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
? "For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it."
I agree completely, but I worked for years (and made several large projects), with a Harbor Freight 7x10, and there are ways to get around bed-length problems. (And these ways are worth knowing about no matter how big your lathe is). A drill in the tailstock doesn't HAVE to be in a chuck. You can drill a pilot hole with a small drill in the chuck, then hold your big drill on the tailstock center with a lathe dog on the drill shaft to keep it from turning. (And that center can be a homemade short one that hardly sticks out, not the giant centers you buy). When drilling from the tail stock, you can also shorten drills by simply sawing off the shaft -- they aren't hardened.
Also, many things held in a chuck can instead be held on the faceplate. Most people used the faceplate for holding odd-shaped things that won't fit in the chuck, but if you're bed-challenged, you can also use it to save the ~2" of bed length that a chuck uses up.
Eventually I bought a longer bed for my 7x10 from little machine shop, but I don't regret my original purchase of the short bed. It helped develop my ingenuity.
Mike Taglieri
I'm not completely expert in the differences and just rambling from memory.
But first, I don't think anybody can say if lathe X is better than lathe Y - for YOU.
It is my understanding that the SC3 has a better motor arrangement and also a longer bed (7x16 instead of 7x14).
For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it.
But plenty are fine with the various shorter bed models.
Another thing I think about is the cost of the tooling.? And how I would feel paying the same money for tooling (chucks, better tool post, and on and on) for the lathe I didn't really want versus the lathe I really did want.? So, I suggest it is often best to go for the most machine you reasonably can unless cost is absolutely a major factor.
That would also mean looking at options other than C3 versus SC3 and perhaps other lathes.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 02:40:45 PM PST, Old Boilermaker via <alned03= [email protected]> wrote:
Contemplating buying a mini lathe for home use. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a SC3 as opposed to a C3 ?.
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Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
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On 16 Dec 2024, at 07:30, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
? "For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it."
I agree completely, but I worked for years (and made several large projects), with a Harbor Freight 7x10, and there are ways to get around bed-length problems. (And these ways are worth knowing about no matter how big your lathe is). A drill in the tailstock doesn't HAVE to be in a chuck. You can drill a pilot hole with a small drill in the chuck, then hold your big drill on the tailstock center with a lathe dog on the drill shaft to keep it from turning. (And that center can be a homemade short one that hardly sticks out, not the giant centers you buy). When drilling from the tail stock, you can also shorten drills by simply sawing off the shaft -- they aren't hardened.
Also, many things held in a chuck can instead be held on the faceplate. Most people used the faceplate for holding odd-shaped things that won't fit in the chuck, but if you're bed-challenged, you can also use it to save the ~2" of bed length that a chuck uses up.
Eventually I bought a longer bed for my 7x10 from little machine shop, but I don't regret my original purchase of the short bed. It helped develop my ingenuity.
Mike Taglieri
I'm not completely expert in the differences and just rambling from memory.
But first, I don't think anybody can say if lathe X is better than lathe Y - for YOU.
It is my understanding that the SC3 has a better motor arrangement and also a longer bed (7x16 instead of 7x14).
For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it.
But plenty are fine with the various shorter bed models.
Another thing I think about is the cost of the tooling.? And how I would feel paying the same money for tooling (chucks, better tool post, and on and on) for the lathe I didn't really want versus the lathe I really did want.? So, I suggest it is often best to go for the most machine you reasonably can unless cost is absolutely a major factor.
That would also mean looking at options other than C3 versus SC3 and perhaps other lathes.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 02:40:45 PM PST, Old Boilermaker via <alned03= [email protected]> wrote:
Contemplating buying a mini lathe for home use. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a SC3 as opposed to a C3 ?.
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I have purchased all but one time the longest.
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The reason is very simple space. In retirement you could find a location may not have room for bigger lathes? so decide on a? 8" x 14" and can do milling too. It will fit in a 36" Aumawal or weight like on a install field pickup ?/boat ?/airplane ? maybe for class room ??
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Dave?
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I'm thinking that's referring to a BLDC - brushless DC motor.
The Sieg circuitry looks like it's based on a reference design for the Atmel Encoder BLDC:
I think they used a different 8 bit uC but basically the same idea.
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On 12/18/2024 9:08 PM, Old Boilermaker via groups.io wrote: What is a "digital motor"? As far as I'm aware, here in Australia the C3P has a 350w brushed motor and the SC3 has a 500w brushless motor. I have not heard of anyone having to replace the brushless motor but on YouTube there are many transplanting different motors to replace the 350w one which has "smoked"
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What is a "digital motor"? As far as I'm aware, here in Australia the C3P has a 350w brushed motor and the SC3 has a 500w brushless motor. I have not heard of anyone having to replace the brushless motor but on YouTube there are many transplanting different motors to replace the 350w one which has "smoked"
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Yes, original motor without any issues. Mine is the original setup prior to the current digital motor.?
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On 18 Dec 2024, at 11:42, flyfishingdude9 via groups.io <flyfishingdude9@...> wrote:
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Wishful thinking!
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What usually happens is you'll find a project you? really want to do that's bigger than your lathe can handle. That's apparently one of the constants of the universe??
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On one (shipboard) shop I ran, the largest lathe was 54"x120" - we'd still manage to get jobs that had to be sent out to a shop with bigger machinery.
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Roy
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David, do you have the original motor in your lathe? Has it given you any problems?
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So. The maximums which i would ever need to machine would be 25mm steel shafted approximately 280mm long and I would like to be able to make belt grinder pulleys from aluminium,? the largest being 100mm dia x 70 mm thick.
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No matter which you get, I'll reccomend getting the following book: ?
Even if you don’t build all the improvements he lays out, it’s a really great source on how to bootstrap improvements to both your lathe and your skills.?
On Dec 16, 2024, at 2:54?AM, David Wiseman via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
I found myself in a similar situation as yourself, I had a friend who had a marvelous workshop and he would machine things for me at no cost as a friend. Sadly he passes on, só I bought a C3 and developed from there.?
But the best you can aford, more powerful motor is a nice upgrade.? On 16 Dec 2024, at 00:37, Old Boilermaker via groups.io <alned03@...> wrote:
? You make some really good points so I think I need to explain my situation.? So I am a retired Boilermaker.? These days keep active by building various things in my shed. Every now and then I run into a situation where I might need a shaf to run between bearings, or a bronze bush, an aluminium pulley or a simple hinge, you get the idea. Up until now I have been either trying to buy these things off the shelf, or paying someone to machine something for me. I just thought it would be nice to have a little machine so I can do most of these tasks myself.
I am no machinist that's for sure, infact only ti.e I've even been near a lathe was in metalwork class at high school and possibly at trade school though I am competent enough to learn or at least have a go at it.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Don't forget after you have bought the lathe you will need tools, cutting and measuring equipment, this can add up to quite a bit, but at least you can buy them as you need them.
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Old Boilermaker,
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1 - Any lathe is better than no lathe
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2 - Buy the best that your budget allows
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3 - Yes, a longer bed is better, and makes life a lot easier, but as said previously you can get pretty innovative with a shorter bed.? Also, working around those limitations will make you a better machinist, but be careful don't get hurt.? You do learn to think outside the box though! ?
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4 - As mentioned, your new toy will probably need some TLC right out of the box, but that's part of the fun!? There are tons of mods you can make, and tons of YT videos showing some of these.? My first lathe (7X14) transformed into an amazing machine.? I still have it and still use it more than my other, bigger machines.? I have a special connection with that little bad boy.
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5 - Just keep in mind that you can make small parts on big lathe, but you can't make big parts on a small lathe.
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Good luck with whatever you choose and have fun!? For me it's like playing golf - I'm not making any money doing it, so I just have fun.? By the way, I really suck at golf!? ?
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Jeff
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I also agree with a long bed idea. However, take care that the
weight increases with the length. I bought a 200x400mm Weiss lathe
(100 mm dia. chuck, 400mm between centers). Its weight is 65 kg.
If heavier, I really had issues to install it alone !
That said, I didn't have to turn long pieces but I had to check
bores with the rods that had to go inside (300mm long). Really
happy to have a bed that long, avoiding to dismount the tail stock
for each test !
On 16.12.24 01:46, Ryan H via groups.io
wrote:
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If it were me, I'd go for the
longer one funds permitting.? I just managed to make a
new 11 inch screw on my 7x14.? Like someone else said, length
gets eaten up with a tail stock, live center, drill chuck and
whatever else you may need at that end.? I got it done and it
came out really nice but man, that extra two inches would have
made life a lot easier.? It's easier to use less of the
machine than to make it longer.? :-)
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I found myself in a similar situation as yourself, I had a friend who had a marvelous workshop and he would machine things for me at no cost as a friend. Sadly he passes on, só I bought a C3 and developed from there.?
But the best you can aford, more powerful motor is a nice upgrade.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 16 Dec 2024, at 00:37, Old Boilermaker via groups.io <alned03@...> wrote:
? You make some really good points so I think I need to explain my situation.? So I am a retired Boilermaker.? These days keep active by building various things in my shed. Every now and then I run into a situation where I might need a shaf to run between bearings, or a bronze bush, an aluminium pulley or a simple hinge, you get the idea. Up until now I have been either trying to buy these things off the shelf, or paying someone to machine something for me. I just thought it would be nice to have a little machine so I can do most of these tasks myself.
I am no machinist that's for sure, infact only ti.e I've even been near a lathe was in metalwork class at high school and possibly at trade school though I am competent enough to learn or at least have a go at it.
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Allen Gentz,Us boilermakers are a dying race that's for sure.
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davesmith1800
Les Orton