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chuck holding power
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Robert Streimikes
Hello Richard,
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A couple of things to look at: 1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not trying to use a die. Assuming that is the case start by checking how hard the drill rod is. Will a file cut it? if not then it must be anealed before threading. 2. Single point threading is done with repeated passes each slightly deeper than the one before. Your first pass should barely scratch the surface. There is a lot of info out there on threading in a lathe I am sure others will point you at some of it. The 3 jaw that comes with the 7x10 is a reasonably good chuck I doubt your problems are with it. Regards Bob Rich Kleinhenz wrote: I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3" chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not. The rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack the jaws closed. Is that as expected, or do I need to do something to my chuck? |
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Robert Streimikes
If you are serious about this you could try turning a sholder on the rod in order to make the start easier. But what I would do is start the thread with single point then finish it with a die. Single point isn't really that difficult esp if you clean up with a die. Do not forget to use some tap magic or some such cutting fluid (for both the single point work and the die work.) Take it easy tightening that chuck you do not want to damage the scroll.
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Regards Bob Rich Kleinhenz wrote: I was using a die. Single point is not a problem. So the chuck is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem with 1/4-28. Just the nature of the beast then, I take it. |
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Rich Kleinhenz
I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3" chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not. The rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack the jaws closed. Is that as expected, or do I need to do something to my chuck?
-- Regards, Rich ==================================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... ==================================================== |
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Richard Kleinhenz
Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die... thank you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my hands on teh chuck key something was wrong!
-- Regards, Rich ======================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... ======================================== |
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Rich Kleinhenz
I was using a die. Single point is not a problem. So the chuck is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem with 1/4-28. Just the nature of the beast then, I take it.
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-- Regards, Rich ==================================================== Richard Kleinhenz mailto:woodnpen@... ==================================================== ----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Streimikes" <rjs@...> 1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not trying to |
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The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its component parts,
deburred and lubricated. There's usually one jaw that binds against the body, reducing the clamping force. All that being said, drill rod is a real bear to get clean threads on. Single point roughing followed by a die is a winning method, enhanced with a thread file for final finish. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz" <woodnpen@o...> wrote: I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3"chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not. The rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack the jaws closed. Is that as expected, or do I need to do something to my chuck? -- |
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Are you sure that it is not hardened? Some users have
confused drill ROD with drill BLANKS. Drill blanks are hardened and can't be turned in the lathe. Drill rod can also be in a hardened state that can't be turned. I have cut a number of threads in drill rod without too much trouble, although, as Roy points out, it is not the easiest material to work with compared with brass or aluminum. --- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote: The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). |
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Richard Albers
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote: Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die... thankyou very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my hands on teh chuck key something was wrong! If you really want to thread that drill rod with a die, get a 4-jaw (independent) chuck. You can get those jaws much tighter than with a 3-jaw. Without damaging the chuck, too. ;-) For some good information on single-point threading, see: ad.txt You will probably need to cut and paste that onto one line, or just go to: and get the only file there. It helped me learn to cut threads. RA |
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cwalklin1
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz"
<woodnpen@o...> wrote: I was using a die. Single point is not a problem. So the chuckis simply not able to withstand the torque required for die- threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem with 1/4-28. Just the nature of the beast then, I take it. --trying to Use a small piece of emory cloth between the work and the jaws ofuse a die. the chuck. It will help to grip the stock. Making sure the "grit" side in on the stock. |
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