For external threads, Fowler (IIRC), makes a micrometer attachment
consisting of 2 triangular prisms with little elastic thingies that
hold them to the micrometer spindle & anvil. Each prism has 3
different sized flatted points, so they'll fit a wide thread range.
The set comes with a set of tables to convert measured size to
equivalent thread dimensions. They work best with a non-rotating
spindle micrometer.
There also used to be a single triangular prism, again with
different sized flatted points, that SPI made. It didn't mount to
the micrometer - it has a little wire handle.
Owning both of these gems, I usually go for the wires & lump of
modeling clay!
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...>
wrote:
thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita
Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something
that
looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-)
Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision
of
single-point cut threads (few of mine, at least). I just cut
threads
that way because I CAN!
Do you have any unthreaded round stock left? ;-)
RA
Actually I cut 9/16 12 coarse threads for a fixture i need for an
invention i am working on. the coarse threads are very forgiving.
A remaining issue is knowing when the threads are deep enough.
Taking the tailstock off to try the nut is NOT the way to go,
although with a coarse thread I found I could realign the setup.
Putting the fine edge of a caliper in the threads seemed to work
for
coarse threads.
Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to
work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it?
Thanks again for your help.
mike