?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
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On 13 Feb 2025, at 22:28, Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
? That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds. On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote:
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--? Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Much to the horror of many, I have used both my mini-lathe & mini-mill to cut wood. ? Works fine. ? The only problem you’ll have is the sawdust sticks to the oil making it a bit hard to clean up.? I hear some distant grumbling about how it promotes rust.? Yeah maybe. ? Anyway, cover the metal as much as you can (use a plastic sheet, I use cling film) and set up a vacuum. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io Sent: Friday, 14 February 2025 11:35 pm To: [email protected] Cc: [email protected] Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] A new (and slightly off) topic? ?Dear Gentlemen, 1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group. 2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group. So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets. So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? ) Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),? ?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:? It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor. Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote: ? Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
? --? Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. ?
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Messy but certainly doable. Just consider you won't be getting a nice finish from machining. If that is required, then some sanding will be in order and there goes, at least, some of your desired accuracy On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 6:34?AM DAVID WILLIAMS via <d.i.williams= [email protected]> wrote:
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?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe.? So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--? Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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I have turned wood and Trex on my mini lathe. I have also machined wood and Trex on my mini mill. You are only limited by your imagination. Regards, John Mattis (retired mechanical engineer)
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 4:34?AM DAVID WILLIAMS via <d.i.williams= [email protected]> wrote:
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?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe.? So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--? Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Generally, you never want to machine wood on metal lathes and mills.? This is the "common" advice.? It is true that there is a rather high risk of rust as wood, unlike metal chips, contains moisture.? Also, you tend to get some very fine dust that can be hard to clean out of everything.
That said, they are just machines with things twirling around and one might ask how is that different than a wood lathe or other woodworking machine with exposed metal.? Of course, in a metal lathe, or mill, there are a great many more nooks and crannies.
I have machined wood on the mini-lathe and mini-mill (but probably would try hard to avoid that on my larger lathe and mill) but first I wipe down the machine really well so there are no thick films or puddles of oil or anything.? And when done, IMMEDIATELY clean the machine and re-oil it.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, February 14, 2025 at 04:35:01 AM PST, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io <d.i.williams@...> wrote:
?Dear Gentlemen,
1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group.
2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group.
So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets.
So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? )
Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),?
David? Nr Oxford, UK.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 13 Feb 2025, at 22:28, Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
? That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:?
It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor.
Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds. On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23?PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote:
Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. ? As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? ? I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. ?So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
--? Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Cleanliness is the key to success & longer machine life!
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Drill presses commonly get used for both wood & metal with no particular problems. Just clean everything thoroughly before & after machining; adding some machine coverings can help reduce the clean-up work.
?
Roy
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I probably should have mentioned you generally want higher speeds for milling wood.? Turning on the 7x12 isn’t too bad (a little too slow for small diameter stuff like pens), but there’s quite a bit of difference between the speed of a mill-mill and a router. ? The mill really isn’t fast enough, does work in some cases.? Usual solution is to bolt a little router (ie Dremel etc) to the mill head.? Similar to how people bolt die grinders etc to the lathe compound. ? Tony ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of mario mohl via groups.io Sent: Saturday, 15 February 2025 1:28 am To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] A new (and slightly off) topic? Messy but certainly doable. Just consider you won't be getting a nice finish from machining. If that is required, then some sanding will be in order and there goes, at least, some of your desired accuracy ? On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 6:34?AM DAVID WILLIAMS via <d.i.williams=[email protected]> wrote: ?Dear Gentlemen, 1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group. 2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group. So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets. So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? ) Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation),? ?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this:? It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) ?it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor. Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds.
? Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe.? So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more.
? --? Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. ?
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This very clear this site is only? MINI LATHE.?
So remember no off Topics here
?
I can help just send message I think i have seen your name on
?and can help you out the first is on engines and steam engines.
The message system works best on
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Here I only talke about mini lathes?
I would post email but that is not good idea today.?
?
Dave?
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Having precisely milled wood blocks on my mill I would say "Go for it!"?
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On Sat, Feb 15, 2025 at 1:08?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1= [email protected]> wrote: This very clear this site is only? MINI LATHE.?
So remember no off Topics here
?
I can help just send message I think i have seen your name on
?and can help you out the first is on engines and steam engines.
The message system works best on
?
Here I only talke about mini lathes?
I would post email but that is not good idea today.?
?
Dave?
?
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Just my 2? worth this morning.....
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I really don't think this thread is off-topic.? We are talking about machining different materials on a mini-lathe.? Does it really matter what the material is?? Would it be off-topic if I said I was cutting threads on a Delrin? ring for a telescope lens?? Is it off-topic if I am making a Teflon? piston for a replica steam engine??
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In my main hobby of restoring antique carousel organs, I once made a production run of 600 "pipe toes" out of birch.? These are small to medium turnings that have a through hole, a tenon, and need a very repeatable taper of 3°.? My 8x14 mini-lathe was the only appropriate machine in my shop.
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For those of you who like to google more information, here's an article from my good Friend David Wasson (who is a machinist by the way):
https://coaa.us/index_archive/Issues_31_to_40/Traditional%20Band%20Organ%20Pipe%20Construction%20-%20David%20Wasson_%20_35%20&%2036.pdf
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From snowy Wichita Kansas,
Mike
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Agree with mike in snowy Kansas.
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All kinds of materials are machined.
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Wood is nothing of a mess compared to phenolic.
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Consider using a vacuum when working with messy material.
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John (in very cold Michigan -it's 4 degrees at this writing ; )
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