|
I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
At the same time I'd like to add a ball bearing to the cross slide
shaft.
After looking at the whole project I noted that Gordon Scott's mod
moves the cross slide travel about an inch toward the operator but
doesn't seem to actually increase the travel.
The cross slide lead screw has extra threads which would allow
additional travel once the material is milled away but this would, of
course, require a longer lead screw shaft by an inch or so on the
knob end.
My current plan is to make an extension and bolt it onto the existing
shaft by using a much longer screw to hold the knob in place. This
extension will hold the ball bearing to lock the inner race to the
shaft and a complete new part will be fabricated to hold the outside
race of the bearing such that the original leadscrew will be only a
few mils farther forward than at present (this so the flange on the
shaft won't bind against the end of the carriage).
Has anyone done a similar mod? I've found a description of a BB
added to the cross slide on a 9x20 but haven't found this for the 7x.
This is a more extensive (pun intended) mod to my lathe than any
attempted previously so any advice gratefully accepted.
John
|
Here's a compound ball bearing mod: <> Somewhere, I thought I'd seen a cross-slide ball bearing mod; of course, I can't find it now! (Maybe somewhere in the 7x10 links or files?) Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
At the same time I'd like to add a ball bearing to the cross slide
shaft.
After looking at the whole project I noted that Gordon Scott's mod
moves the cross slide travel about an inch toward the operator but
doesn't seem to actually increase the travel.
The cross slide lead screw has extra threads which would allow
additional travel once the material is milled away but this would, of course, require a longer lead screw shaft by an inch or so on the
knob end.
My current plan is to make an extension and bolt it onto the existing shaft by using a much longer screw to hold the knob in place. This
extension will hold the ball bearing to lock the inner race to the
shaft and a complete new part will be fabricated to hold the outside race of the bearing such that the original leadscrew will be only a
few mils farther forward than at present (this so the flange on the
shaft won't bind against the end of the carriage).
Has anyone done a similar mod? I've found a description of a BB
added to the cross slide on a 9x20 but haven't found this for the 7x.
This is a more extensive (pun intended) mod to my lathe than any
attempted previously so any advice gratefully accepted.
John
|
Ty added BB to his xslide in conjunction with a new leadscrew. Try this: Steve --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
At the same time I'd like to add a ball bearing to the cross slide
shaft.
After looking at the whole project I noted that Gordon Scott's mod
moves the cross slide travel about an inch toward the operator but
doesn't seem to actually increase the travel.
The cross slide lead screw has extra threads which would allow
additional travel once the material is milled away but this would, of course, require a longer lead screw shaft by an inch or so on the
knob end.
My current plan is to make an extension and bolt it onto the existing shaft by using a much longer screw to hold the knob in place. This
extension will hold the ball bearing to lock the inner race to the
shaft and a complete new part will be fabricated to hold the outside race of the bearing such that the original leadscrew will be only a
few mils farther forward than at present (this so the flange on the
shaft won't bind against the end of the carriage).
Has anyone done a similar mod? I've found a description of a BB
added to the cross slide on a 9x20 but haven't found this for the 7x.
This is a more extensive (pun intended) mod to my lathe than any
attempted previously so any advice gratefully accepted.
John
|
Hi Roy, Thanks for the reference. I also intend to put a BB in the compound since the bearings are so cheap ($0.72 for a 6001-2RS) but, as a newbie, am not sure about that design -- it looks like the press fit bearing could get stuck in the holder and make it difficult to remove since the bearing covers the bolts which retain the holder. Perhaps a set screw could be used instead or possibly threads for ejector screws? I also saw a BB design for the 7x cross slide somewhere on the net but can't recall where - old age is hell! So, I'm adapting Steve Bedair's 9x20 design to the 7x: I haven't figured out exactly how I'll retain the bearing shell but am leaning toward a set screw. I may make the holder from two pieces, the spacer and the bearing holder, and bolt them together. This to minimize the amount of material removed while providing enough meat for a set screw. I also ordered a couple of bearings with an 8mm hole to fit the carriage drive ($0.44) so eventually all my controls will use BB's. Given the low cost of the Asian bearings, it is surprising that they don't use them during original manufacture. It costs much more for shipping than bearings when you add them later. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: Here's a compound ball bearing mod:
<>
Somewhere, I thought I'd seen a cross-slide ball bearing mod; of
course, I can't find it now! (Maybe somewhere in the 7x10 links or
files?)
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
At the same time I'd like to add a ball bearing to the cross
slide shaft.
After looking at the whole project I noted that Gordon Scott's
mod moves the cross slide travel about an inch toward the operator
but doesn't seem to actually increase the travel.
The cross slide lead screw has extra threads which would allow
additional travel once the material is milled away but this
would, of
course, require a longer lead screw shaft by an inch or so on the
knob end.
My current plan is to make an extension and bolt it onto the existing
shaft by using a much longer screw to hold the knob in place. This extension will hold the ball bearing to lock the inner race to
the shaft and a complete new part will be fabricated to hold the outside
race of the bearing such that the original leadscrew will be only
a few mils farther forward than at present (this so the flange on
the shaft won't bind against the end of the carriage).
Has anyone done a similar mod? I've found a description of a BB
added to the cross slide on a 9x20 but haven't found this for the 7x.
This is a more extensive (pun intended) mod to my lathe than any
attempted previously so any advice gratefully accepted.
John
|
I'm quite sure that I already posted this several hours ago, but here it goes again: Ty added ball bearings to his xslide in conjunction with a new 20 tpi lead screw. You can find the drawings at: Steve --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
At the same time I'd like to add a ball bearing to the cross slide
shaft.
After looking at the whole project I noted that Gordon Scott's mod
moves the cross slide travel about an inch toward the operator but
doesn't seem to actually increase the travel.
The cross slide lead screw has extra threads which would allow
additional travel once the material is milled away but this would, of course, require a longer lead screw shaft by an inch or so on the
knob end.
My current plan is to make an extension and bolt it onto the existing shaft by using a much longer screw to hold the knob in place. This
extension will hold the ball bearing to lock the inner race to the
shaft and a complete new part will be fabricated to hold the outside race of the bearing such that the original leadscrew will be only a
few mils farther forward than at present (this so the flange on the
shaft won't bind against the end of the carriage).
Has anyone done a similar mod? I've found a description of a BB
added to the cross slide on a 9x20 but haven't found this for the 7x.
This is a more extensive (pun intended) mod to my lathe than any
attempted previously so any advice gratefully accepted.
John
|
I'm quite sure that I already posted this several hours ago, but here it goes again: Ty added ball bearings to his xslide in conjunction with a new 20 tpi lead screw. You can find the drawings at: Steve --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
At the same time I'd like to add a ball bearing to the cross slide
shaft.
After looking at the whole project I noted that Gordon Scott's mod
moves the cross slide travel about an inch toward the operator but
doesn't seem to actually increase the travel.
The cross slide lead screw has extra threads which would allow
additional travel once the material is milled away but this would, of course, require a longer lead screw shaft by an inch or so on the
knob end.
My current plan is to make an extension and bolt it onto the existing shaft by using a much longer screw to hold the knob in place. This
extension will hold the ball bearing to lock the inner race to the
shaft and a complete new part will be fabricated to hold the outside race of the bearing such that the original leadscrew will be only a
few mils farther forward than at present (this so the flange on the
shaft won't bind against the end of the carriage).
Has anyone done a similar mod? I've found a description of a BB
added to the cross slide on a 9x20 but haven't found this for the 7x.
This is a more extensive (pun intended) mod to my lathe than any
attempted previously so any advice gratefully accepted.
John
|
There is a lot to be said for Lock-Tite in these applications! Minimal
space requirement, easy assembly, and reversible with a propane torch!
Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"
|
Realistically, the bearings should last close to forever; any method of making them easy to remove would be hard to retrofit into the existing envelope. Ejector holes don't need to be threaded; clearance for a punch is more than enough. There are nifty blind hole pullers that work, < catalog.php3>, look for item 4581. A setscrew retaining a ball bearing shouldn't bear directly on the outer race; the point contact will distort the race enough to keep the bearing from working properly. With an Aluminum housing, heating the whole assembly will let the bearing drop out (differential expansion). The outer race should actually be a minimal clearance fit - it should be able to "creep" in the housing. I wouldn't worry much about easy bearing replacement, this sort of bearing mounting is relatively common and has lots of common techniques to unmount. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: Hi Roy,
Thanks for the reference. I also intend to put a BB in the compound
since the bearings are so cheap ($0.72 for a 6001-2RS) but, as a
newbie, am not sure about that design -- it looks like the press fit bearing could get stuck in the holder and make it difficult to remove since the bearing covers the bolts which retain the holder. Perhaps a set screw could be used instead or possibly threads for ejector
screws?
I also saw a BB design for the 7x cross slide somewhere on the net
but can't recall where - old age is hell! So, I'm adapting Steve
Bedair's 9x20 design to the 7x:
I haven't figured out exactly how I'll retain the bearing shell but
am leaning toward a set screw. I may make the holder from two
pieces, the spacer and the bearing holder, and bolt them together.
This to minimize the amount of material removed while providing
enough meat for a set screw.
I also ordered a couple of bearings with an 8mm hole to fit the
carriage drive ($0.44) so eventually all my controls will use BB's.
Given the low cost of the Asian bearings, it is surprising that they don't use them during original manufacture. It costs much more for
shipping than bearings when you add them later.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:
Here's a compound ball bearing mod:
<>
Somewhere, I thought I'd seen a cross-slide ball bearing mod; of course, I can't find it now! (Maybe somewhere in the 7x10 links
or files?)
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
At the same time I'd like to add a ball bearing to the cross
slide
shaft.
After looking at the whole project I noted that Gordon Scott's
mod
moves the cross slide travel about an inch toward the operator
but
doesn't seem to actually increase the travel.
The cross slide lead screw has extra threads which would allow
additional travel once the material is milled away but this
would,
of
course, require a longer lead screw shaft by an inch or so on
the knob end.
My current plan is to make an extension and bolt it onto the existing
shaft by using a much longer screw to hold the knob in place.
This
extension will hold the ball bearing to lock the inner race to
the
shaft and a complete new part will be fabricated to hold the outside
race of the bearing such that the original leadscrew will be
only a
few mils farther forward than at present (this so the flange on
the
shaft won't bind against the end of the carriage).
Has anyone done a similar mod? I've found a description of a
BB added to the cross slide on a 9x20 but haven't found this for
the 7x.
This is a more extensive (pun intended) mod to my lathe than
any attempted previously so any advice gratefully accepted.
John
|
I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with a
washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed the
bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and the
bearing block.
I made a new leadscrew, easy as I have a metric leadscrew, and turned
the shaft to be 2mm less in diameter than the original. I also made
the threaded portion approx 2" longer to allow more travel for the
Taig milling attachment I have.
This way I used smaller bearings and a sleeve between the handle
washer and the bearings to clamp the leadscrew to the inner race.
the original numbered dial fits over the sleeve and is held in place
with a set screw instead of the spring.
I sortof copied someone else's cross slide bearing mod, but not sure
where it was/is.
Here it is:
Projects/Cross_Slide_Mod/
Bob.
|
Hi Bob, Thanks for the info on your mod as well as the link to the cross slide mod pictures. I particularly like the way you clamped the inner race; if my wild scheme doesn't work out I'll copy yours. I tend to be a "successive approximation" worker, that is when possible I try to make things in such a way that the parts can be tried prior to completion. The cross slide mod I'm attempting is a good example in that the change to the carriage is now done plus I've completed the lead screw extension and have it in place (but the dial is still where it used to be because I don't have the bearing yet), held with a longer bolt. This extension has the groove for the dial's friction spring as well as the land for the inner bearing race to butt against. All I need now is the bearing and spacer. The extension is easily removed so I can revert to the original setup quickly, except I can't put the material back into the carriage :-) Pictures of the present state are near the end of the page on my lathe site: There is 5/8" additional thread exposed on the leadscrew so it will be quite a bit better than the present setup; I can make the next approximation - a new leadscrew - later if necessary. My scheme for inner race retention is not as positive as yours. I'm trying to copy the method used on the minilathe's compound slide except that a ball bearing will be included. That is, the handle will take the bearing's thrust via the dial. Very few parts needed but hard to say if it will have excessive slop - my compound has about 3 mils. I'm still agonizing over a simple way to retain the bearing's outer race which would also allow easy disassembly so I can revert to the original setup if it doesn't work as I hope. Loctite or a press fit would make the bearing more difficult to extract so I'm leaning toward a set screw. With the material removed from the carriage I find that the cross slide lead screw is exposed when the toolpost is centered as it is when using the ball fixture. It's unclear how to protect this in a way which won't interfere with the spacer - another use for duct tape, maybe ;-) John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "v45bob" <rosunley@s...> wrote: I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with a
washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed the
bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and the
bearing block.
I made a new leadscrew, easy as I have a metric leadscrew, and turned the shaft to be 2mm less in diameter than the original. I also made
the threaded portion approx 2" longer to allow more travel for the
Taig milling attachment I have.
This way I used smaller bearings and a sleeve between the handle
washer and the bearings to clamp the leadscrew to the inner race.
the original numbered dial fits over the sleeve and is held in place with a set screw instead of the spring.
I sortof copied someone else's cross slide bearing mod, but not sure where it was/is.
Here it is:
Projects/Cross_Slide_Mod/
Bob.
|
Hi Steve, Thanks for the link. A bit embarrassing since it is on the same site as my original link and I just missed it. Seems like everyone who mods the cross slide has a mill except me. Hmmm, maybe they're trying to tell me something. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "smuldoon1" <smuldoon@z...> wrote: I'm quite sure that I already posted this several hours ago, but here it goes again:
Ty added ball bearings to his xslide in conjunction with a new 20 tpi lead screw. You can find the drawings at:
Steve
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
I'm getting ready to mod my cross slide along the lines shown here:
|
There's a compound pivot mod that moves the compound's pivot point close to an inch towards the centerline of the lathe - should reduce the number of times the feedscrew is exposed. Flexible magnetic sign material holds onto oily metal better than duct tape & comes free in the mail from realtors, long-distance providers, pizza places, etc. Using a setscrew on the outer race of a ball bearing is not a good plan; the outer race will distort enough to give the bearing a "notchy" feel if the screw is tight enough to actually hold anything. Any retention method should distribute the force over as much of the bearing as possible. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: Hi Bob,
Thanks for the info on your mod as well as the link to the cross
slide mod pictures. I particularly like the way you clamped the
inner race; if my wild scheme doesn't work out I'll copy yours.
I tend to be a "successive approximation" worker, that is when
possible I try to make things in such a way that the parts can be
tried prior to completion. The cross slide mod I'm attempting is a
good example in that the change to the carriage is now done plus I've completed the lead screw extension and have it in place (but the dial is still where it used to be because I don't have the bearing yet),
held with a longer bolt. This extension has the groove for the
dial's friction spring as well as the land for the inner bearing race to butt against. All I need now is the bearing and spacer. The
extension is easily removed so I can revert to the original setup
quickly, except I can't put the material back into the carriage :- ) Pictures of the present state are near the end of the page on my
lathe site:
There is 5/8" additional thread exposed on the leadscrew so it will
be quite a bit better than the present setup; I can make the next
approximation - a new leadscrew - later if necessary.
My scheme for inner race retention is not as positive as yours. I'm
trying to copy the method used on the minilathe's compound slide
except that a ball bearing will be included. That is, the handle
will take the bearing's thrust via the dial. Very few parts needed
but hard to say if it will have excessive slop - my compound has
about 3 mils.
I'm still agonizing over a simple way to retain the bearing's outer
race which would also allow easy disassembly so I can revert to the
original setup if it doesn't work as I hope. Loctite or a press fit
would make the bearing more difficult to extract so I'm leaning
toward a set screw.
With the material removed from the carriage I find that the cross
slide lead screw is exposed when the toolpost is centered as it is
when using the ball fixture. It's unclear how to protect this in a
way which won't interfere with the spacer - another use for duct
tape, maybe ;-)
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "v45bob" <rosunley@s...> wrote: I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with a
washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed the
bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and the
bearing block.
I made a new leadscrew, easy as I have a metric leadscrew, and turned
the shaft to be 2mm less in diameter than the original. I also
made the threaded portion approx 2" longer to allow more travel for
the Taig milling attachment I have.
This way I used smaller bearings and a sleeve between the handle
washer and the bearings to clamp the leadscrew to the inner
race. the original numbered dial fits over the sleeve and is held in place
with a set screw instead of the spring.
I sortof copied someone else's cross slide bearing mod, but not sure
where it was/is.
Here it is:
Projects/Cross_Slide_Mod/
Bob.
|
The cross slide lead screw is exposed when the compound is removed while using the ball fixture so your idea of using a magnetic card seems like a good one, especially since I often use the ball fixture on aluminum. And, you've convinced me to use a clamp scheme instead of a set screw to retain the bearing. I think I can slit the bottom of the bearing holder and add a cinch screw to accomplish this. It may look a bit strange for a while until I come up with a scheme to mill the outer part of the holder to match the diameter of the dial -- unfortunately, I can't turn it to size and leave a place for the cinch screw and I don't own a mill so I guess it will take some extra ingenuity. Or a visit to a friend with a mill... Thanks for the advice. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: There's a compound pivot mod that moves the compound's pivot point close to an inch towards the centerline of the lathe - should reduce the number of times the feedscrew is exposed. Flexible magnetic sign material holds onto oily metal better than duct tape & comes free in the mail from realtors, long-distance providers, pizza places, etc.
Using a setscrew on the outer race of a ball bearing is not a good plan; the outer race will distort enough to give the bearing
a "notchy" feel if the screw is tight enough to actually hold
anything. Any retention method should distribute the force over as
much of the bearing as possible.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the info on your mod as well as the link to the cross
slide mod pictures. I particularly like the way you clamped the
inner race; if my wild scheme doesn't work out I'll copy yours.
I tend to be a "successive approximation" worker, that is when
possible I try to make things in such a way that the parts can be
tried prior to completion. The cross slide mod I'm attempting is a good example in that the change to the carriage is now done plus I've
completed the lead screw extension and have it in place (but the dial
is still where it used to be because I don't have the bearing
yet), held with a longer bolt. This extension has the groove for the
dial's friction spring as well as the land for the inner bearing race
to butt against. All I need now is the bearing and spacer. The
extension is easily removed so I can revert to the original setup
quickly, except I can't put the material back into the carriage :- )
Pictures of the present state are near the end of the page on my
lathe site:
There is 5/8" additional thread exposed on the leadscrew so it
will be quite a bit better than the present setup; I can make the next
approximation - a new leadscrew - later if necessary.
My scheme for inner race retention is not as positive as yours.
I'm trying to copy the method used on the minilathe's compound slide
except that a ball bearing will be included. That is, the handle
will take the bearing's thrust via the dial. Very few parts
needed but hard to say if it will have excessive slop - my compound has
about 3 mils.
I'm still agonizing over a simple way to retain the bearing's
outer race which would also allow easy disassembly so I can revert to
the original setup if it doesn't work as I hope. Loctite or a press
fit would make the bearing more difficult to extract so I'm leaning
toward a set screw.
With the material removed from the carriage I find that the cross
slide lead screw is exposed when the toolpost is centered as it
is when using the ball fixture. It's unclear how to protect this in
a way which won't interfere with the spacer - another use for duct
tape, maybe ;-)
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "v45bob" <rosunley@s...> wrote:
I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with a
washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed
the bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and
the bearing block.
I made a new leadscrew, easy as I have a metric leadscrew, and turned
the shaft to be 2mm less in diameter than the original. I also
made
the threaded portion approx 2" longer to allow more travel for
the
Taig milling attachment I have.
This way I used smaller bearings and a sleeve between the
handle washer and the bearings to clamp the leadscrew to the inner
race.
the original numbered dial fits over the sleeve and is held in place
with a set screw instead of the spring.
I sortof copied someone else's cross slide bearing mod, but not sure
where it was/is.
Here it is:
7x12- Projects/Cross_Slide_Mod/
Bob.
|
The magnetic sign stock is more user friendly than you might think - most of it is directionally magnetized. The back side is strongly magnetic; the face is almost non-magnetized. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: The cross slide lead screw is exposed when the compound is removed
while using the ball fixture so your idea of using a magnetic card
seems like a good one, especially since I often use the ball fixture on aluminum.
And, you've convinced me to use a clamp scheme instead of a set screw to retain the bearing. I think I can slit the bottom of the bearing holder and add a cinch screw to accomplish this. It may look a bit
strange for a while until I come up with a scheme to mill the outer
part of the holder to match the diameter of the dial --
unfortunately, I can't turn it to size and leave a place for the
cinch screw and I don't own a mill so I guess it will take some extra ingenuity. Or a visit to a friend with a mill...
Thanks for the advice.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:
There's a compound pivot mod that moves the compound's pivot point
close to an inch towards the centerline of the lathe - should reduce
the number of times the feedscrew is exposed. Flexible magnetic sign
material holds onto oily metal better than duct tape & comes free in
the mail from realtors, long-distance providers, pizza places, etc. Using a setscrew on the outer race of a ball bearing is not a good
plan; the outer race will distort enough to give the bearing
a "notchy" feel if the screw is tight enough to actually hold
anything. Any retention method should distribute the force over
as much of the bearing as possible.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the info on your mod as well as the link to the
cross slide mod pictures. I particularly like the way you clamped
the inner race; if my wild scheme doesn't work out I'll copy yours.
I tend to be a "successive approximation" worker, that is when
possible I try to make things in such a way that the parts can
be tried prior to completion. The cross slide mod I'm attempting
is a
good example in that the change to the carriage is now done
plus I've
completed the lead screw extension and have it in place (but
the dial
is still where it used to be because I don't have the bearing yet),
held with a longer bolt. This extension has the groove for the
dial's friction spring as well as the land for the inner
bearing race
to butt against. All I need now is the bearing and spacer.
The extension is easily removed so I can revert to the original
setup quickly, except I can't put the material back into the
carriage :- )
Pictures of the present state are near the end of the page on
my lathe site:
There is 5/8" additional thread exposed on the leadscrew so it
will
be quite a bit better than the present setup; I can make the
next approximation - a new leadscrew - later if necessary.
My scheme for inner race retention is not as positive as yours.
I'm
trying to copy the method used on the minilathe's compound
slide except that a ball bearing will be included. That is, the
handle will take the bearing's thrust via the dial. Very few parts
needed
but hard to say if it will have excessive slop - my compound
has about 3 mils.
I'm still agonizing over a simple way to retain the bearing's
outer
race which would also allow easy disassembly so I can revert to
the
original setup if it doesn't work as I hope. Loctite or a press
fit
would make the bearing more difficult to extract so I'm leaning
toward a set screw.
With the material removed from the carriage I find that the
cross slide lead screw is exposed when the toolpost is centered as it
is
when using the ball fixture. It's unclear how to protect this
in a
way which won't interfere with the spacer - another use for
duct tape, maybe ;-)
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "v45bob" <rosunley@s...> wrote:
I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with
a washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed
the
bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and
the
bearing block.
I made a new leadscrew, easy as I have a metric leadscrew,
and turned
the shaft to be 2mm less in diameter than the original. I
also made
the threaded portion approx 2" longer to allow more travel
for the
Taig milling attachment I have.
This way I used smaller bearings and a sleeve between the
handle
washer and the bearings to clamp the leadscrew to the inner
race.
the original numbered dial fits over the sleeve and is held
in place
with a set screw instead of the spring.
I sortof copied someone else's cross slide bearing mod, but
not sure
where it was/is.
Here it is:
7x12-
Projects/Cross_Slide_Mod/
Bob.
|
