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Why I Do Single-Point Threading

 

I think I do more single-point threading than tap or die threading.? ? Certainly in larger thread sizes (1/2" and up), and certainly not in small thread sizes (less than 1/4").? ? Projects I do with large fine threads generally require single-point threading, especially if fine fitting is desired.? ?I have a project to do with 7/8"x32tpi threads.

The images are of 1/2x20tpi threads - with no discernable play and smooth turning.? ?The male threads are on 3/4" brass rod and the nut is gold iridite (yellow chromate?) finish grade 8.

It's the beginning of a drain spud for a furnace humidifier.? ?It is since drilled through 0.280" and has a 3/4" male 45 degree taper seat on the left side.? ?Does it need to be that good?? ?No, but I want it that good.? ?After all, it's a hobby!



--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
 

I have done a lot of single point threading but because I did not have a tap or die in that size.
I never had a choice.?

If doing blind R/H threading use reverse and start the thread inside so tool bit is outside when finished?

A36 steel use high rake for better finish?

Dave?
 

Yes, running out the the hole is an excellent technique.? ?Useful to an external thread to a shoulder also, but the blind hole under power .... really necessary.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
Chris Albertson
 

On Jan 19, 2024, at 5:30?AM, Craig Hopewell via groups.io <cch80124@...> wrote:

I think I do more single-point threading than tap or die threading. Certainly in larger thread sizes (1/2" and up), and certainly not in small thread sizes (less than 1/4"). Projects I do with large fine threads generally require single-point threading, especially if fine fitting is desired. I have a project to do with 7/8"x32tpi threads.

If you are working on parts for antique machines, then yes they used all kinds of add threads and you’d never be able to find taps and dies for them all. But any new parts are likely to be metric and there are so few standard metric sizes you could own every die.
 

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??? For me it's much easier to see whats going on when running out of the hole with the cutter on the back side of the hole upside down . SO what is the insert yer using ? What is the range of threads it can cut ?

??? ??? thanks

??? ??? animal

On 1/19/24 10:34 AM, Craig Hopewell via groups.io wrote:

Yes, running out the the hole is an excellent technique.? ?Useful to an external thread to a shoulder also, but the blind hole under power .... really necessary.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

 
Edited

I've had the bars, 10mm internal and 10mm external and their inserts for a few (or several) years, and had to look around a bit.? ?Nothing on the packaging.

Found the chart below on amazon.? ?I have the 11ER-A60 and 11IR-A60 inserts - 16 to 48 tpi.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

Inserts.jpg

 

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??? ??? Thank you sir

??? animal

On 1/19/24 1:37 PM, Craig Hopewell via groups.io wrote:

I've had the bars, 10mm internal and 10mm external and their inserts for a few (or several) years, and had to look around a bit.? ?Nothing on the packaging.

Found the chart below on amazon.? ?I have the 11ER-A60 and 11ir-A60 inserts - 16 to 48 tpi.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

Attachments:
 

This a trick works some times
Engaging the haft nuts?
If lead screw is 16 tpi then can Engage with 16 toi , 32 tpi and 48 tpi without the thread dial.
A 1.5tpm lead screw? you can engage without a thread dial 1.5 and .75
A 2 TPM lead screw can be engage without a dial 2, 1 and .5.

This works great on lathes with 4TPI lead screw. 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 30, 32, 36 and 40 tpi.? Lathe I used for 30 years had a 4TPI. Almost never had to use a thread dial.??

Dave?
 

For Mr animal

This is essentially what I have:



Mine may have come from Bangood, but like much from china, the same thing.? ?Bangood currently being blocked by my malwarebytes for potential evil doing.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
 

I do single point threading because it produces a very clean and nice looking thread. That is if it is done with a nice sharp tool. I particularly like nice sharp HSS tools. Carbide is never as sharp as HSS. Carbide tools do not have an edge as sharp asHSS and also take more horsepower.
Dick
 

I do single point threading because I do not have a tap or die.?
I use HHS because I can adjust the cutter for type steel .
Carbide is great for production work. They be quickly charged and has a nice form but have buy the carbon you need to buy for metal and thread.

The fun of single point after 15 year was gone too.?

Dave?
 

thanks Craig .

animal

On 1/21/24 4:40 AM, Craig Hopewell via groups.io wrote:
For Mr animal

This is essentially what I have:


<>

Mine may have come from Bangood, but like much from china, the same
thing.? ?Bangood currently being blocked by my malwarebytes for
potential evil doing.
--
 

Here chart I have used since 1970's?
Still hangs on the wall this a photo great help.?
I also have a drill chart upto 1 " with number,? letter , metric and fraction for 1970's. It great help but you can buy online and hang on wall.?

Dave?

Chart_for_Tap_Drill_size.pdf
Chart_for_Tap_Drill_size.pdf

 

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Hi Dave and thanks for the chart.

If you check the drill sizes across the chart, you will find that it is even easier.

For the 75% thread depth, just deduct the pitch from the overall diameter !!!

Eg 1”x 8, tap is 7/8”

?????? M6 x,1 tap is 5

???? ??3/8” x 16, tap is 5/16”???? etc.

Works every time.

????????? Ellis

?

?

?

Here chart I have used since 1970's?
Still hangs on the wall this a photo great help.?
I also have a drill chart upto 1 " with number,? letter , metric and fraction for 1970's. It great help but you can buy online and hang on wall.?
Dave?

 

I have them too - drills, tap drills with percentage engagements, etc.? ?Not too long ago I added a thread chart with total depth and first pass depth.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

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