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Hi John:

When I'm using my clamp-knurler I don't move the cross-feed at all.
I only move the cross-feed initially to set the knurling wheels
directly on top and below the workpiece and on the center-line.

I start the lathe with the knurls loose on the right side of the work
and then slowly clamp down until the knurls begin to cut. Then I use
the carriage feed only to move the tool slowly towards the
headstock. If at any time I think the cross-slide should be
adjusted, I release the clamp pressure on the tool before making the
adjustment.

I move the tool back and forth over the knurling area slowly
tightening the knurl adjustment until the knurling looks
satisfactory, then I move the carriage away from the work to the
right and shut the lathe off. The whole process is very smooth and
normally requires very little pressure. I find slow spindle speed
and gentle pressure to work best. Steel workpieces cut smoother with
a little cutting oil.

Once the knurling has started to form the tool will normally follow
the previous knurling if you have to repeat the process.

Mike



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently made a clamp style knurler as described by Martin Cleve:



I had the bump knurler which was part of the Phase II toolpost so

the

knurls from this were installed in my shiny new knurler and away I
went. But, now that I've got it, I find I don't really know how to
use it.

According to the article, you position the knurls on opposite sides
of the stationary work and close the arms until the knurls just
touch, withdraw the tool somewhat, and close the arms 1/3 turn or

so

of the adjuster. Then the tool is advanced on the spinning work

using

the cross feed plus lots of cutting oil (and elbow grease). When I
do this it produces a nice knurl on 1/2" and 1" steel parts but the
force required via the cross feed seems excessive.

Each time I knurl using this technique the cross feed develops
several mils of backlash and needs readjustment. My suspicion is

that

the excessive force is causing rapid wear to the brass nut on the
cross feed leadscrew.

My original notion was to position the knurls with no pressure
applied and then use the adjuster to close the tool until the

desired

knurl was produced, requiring no force to the cross feed. The

torque

needed on the adjuster to do this is beyond me -- knurling steel
takes a LOT of pressure; perhaps this would work with aluminum but

I

haven't tried that yet.

I thought about trying multiple passes, advancing the adjuster much
less, say 1/16 turn, each pass but don't know how to synchronize to
avoid doubling of the pattern so haven't tried this.

So, is there a better way to use this tool? Do I need to add a

thrust

bearing to the adjuster? Should I ditch the knurled adjuster and

make

a hex nut so I can use a (big) wrench? Would the cross feed

situation

get better if I split the brass nut per the mod suggested in the

7x10

group's files?

John

I recently made a clamp style knurler as described by Martin Cleve:



I had the bump knurler which was part of the Phase II toolpost so the
knurls from this were installed in my shiny new knurler and away I
went. But, now that I've got it, I find I don't really know how to
use it.

According to the article, you position the knurls on opposite sides
of the stationary work and close the arms until the knurls just
touch, withdraw the tool somewhat, and close the arms 1/3 turn or so
of the adjuster. Then the tool is advanced on the spinning work using
the cross feed plus lots of cutting oil (and elbow grease). When I
do this it produces a nice knurl on 1/2" and 1" steel parts but the
force required via the cross feed seems excessive.

Each time I knurl using this technique the cross feed develops
several mils of backlash and needs readjustment. My suspicion is that
the excessive force is causing rapid wear to the brass nut on the
cross feed leadscrew.

My original notion was to position the knurls with no pressure
applied and then use the adjuster to close the tool until the desired
knurl was produced, requiring no force to the cross feed. The torque
needed on the adjuster to do this is beyond me -- knurling steel
takes a LOT of pressure; perhaps this would work with aluminum but I
haven't tried that yet.

I thought about trying multiple passes, advancing the adjuster much
less, say 1/16 turn, each pass but don't know how to synchronize to
avoid doubling of the pattern so haven't tried this.

So, is there a better way to use this tool? Do I need to add a thrust
bearing to the adjuster? Should I ditch the knurled adjuster and make
a hex nut so I can use a (big) wrench? Would the cross feed situation
get better if I split the brass nut per the mod suggested in the 7x10
group's files?

John

There's a 7x24 group for folks that used a 2nd bed for an
extension. If you convert to to 7x14, there's a perfectly good bed
available as an extension.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

I know that the Little Machine Shop has a 14 inch

extension bed,

but mine machine would be more useful with an 18 inch or even a 20

inch

bed. I am looking at buying a Kent, but still need the little lathe

once in

a while, it could be more useful.

Jerry

I know that the Little Machine Shop has a 14 inch extension bed,
but mine machine would be more useful with an 18 inch or even a 20 inch
bed. I am looking at buying a Kent, but still need the little lathe once in
a while, it could be more useful.

Jerry

Chris,
I got my tool post that I ordered from Wholesale Tools. It sure
does look like the Little Machine Shop one. I can spec it for you, but I
think it's the same maker.

Jerry

The picture on the Wholesale Tools Web site is pretty bad, but that looks
like the tool post we sell as PN 1147. We have boring and cutoff tool
holders for this tool post. As we have them made for us, the other guys
probably don't offer them. See our PNs 1648 and 1649.



Regards,
Chris Wood
LittleMachineShop.com <www.littlemachineshop.com>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini mills.
221 E. Walnut St. #110, Pasadena, CA 91101
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)584-5844

Our local club, "Colorado Model Engineering Society", took a tour there
last year. An N/C lath and three N/C mills all set up to crank out stuff.
Rene' Tsai is the owner and a very nice person. Also had some design
software to die for; or at least pay thousands. At least some of the
listmembers made the trip. If we do it again I will post it for those
closeby.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Where did u see a TS engineering TP being made?!?! did u goto there
facility? I am curious as to what kinda of machines they are using,
let us know!!

Sean


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William A Williams
<bwmsbldr@j...> wrote:

Try them and tell us? ;<( Actually there is a

similiar/identical tool

post offered by Harbor Freight that has not gotten good reviews. I

can

only reccomend the T/S Engineering Q/C tool post as I have actually
handled it and even seen it made!

Bill in Boulder "Buy the Best and Cry Once!"

I bought the Harbor Freight lathe and the advertised quick change
toolpost some months ago. The only way I've been able to use any
tool bigger than 1/4 inch is with the quick change unit, and only
then by lowering the tool holder well below the level of the cross
slide. It works, but it's not pretty.

After spending about 10 hours tightening every gib in sight,
polishing the ways, and other miscellaneous fixups, I am now
trying to replace the spindle bearings in hopes of getting
less play and flexing. The Harbor Freight model had straight
roller bearings, so I'm replacing them with angled bearings
to take thrust loads.

The stock bearings had about .8 mil static runout.
The dynamic runout was bad (> 5 mil, AFAIK) at speed.
We'll see if this improves it.

I bought that same tool holder from Wholesale Tools two months
ago. It came in three days and it's an excellent toolpost. I emailed
them and asked if they sold boring bar and cutoff tool holders that
would fit this model or even if it was possible to buy spare regular
tool holders. So far no answer. Homier sells the same QC toolpost for
$34.00 and includes a 6 piece carbide tool set but I didn't learn
about this until after I had already bought mine from Wholesale Tools.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

I got a flyer from Wholesale Tools and they had a quick

change

tool post for the 7 inch lathe for $39.00 part number 3003-0026.
Has anyone dealt with them before?

Jerry

What torque stepper motors are recommended for converting a 7X12 to
CNC.
Dan

Try them and tell us? ;<( Actually there is a similiar/identical tool
post offered by Harbor Freight that has not gotten good reviews. I can
only reccomend the T/S Engineering Q/C tool post as I have actually
handled it and even seen it made!

Bill in Boulder "Buy the Best and Cry Once!"

I have dealt with Wholesale tools, they are OK, or was when I dealt with
them

Clint

I got a flyer from Wholesale Tools and they had a quick change
tool post for the 7 inch lathe for $39.00 part number 3003-0026.
Has anyone dealt with them before?

Jerry

Dear Cranky!
Having said that I could find the clutch article I went to do so and of
course could not! I can only assume that it is either somewhere else
other than in my collection or I just overlooked it. Anyway if you are
familiar with how the older Brit bike clutches were laid out this should
be no problem to design. Tet me know if you would like help in crunching
the numbers.
But there was another article in HSM that had an even neater drive based
on adapting an automotive A/C clutch as the working element. It even
included a brake. Of course you needed a 12VDC supply to operate it but
that cannot be a challenge for someone that can make a Lucas Disappearing
Spark Ignition System function!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@...> wrote:

Well since you are probably propped up in bed now full of muscle
relaxants and pain killers this is the perfect time to redesign the
drive. There was a very neat clutch rework for the Myford published in
the mid 70's ME ('76?) that looked a lot like a traditional Brit
motorcycle single plate clutch with cork faces glued on and a pushrod
for
disengagment through the countershaft pushing on a single bearing ball.
If you are interested I will see if I can find the exact date of
publication.

Yes, I am very interested. My main ride is a 74 Norton Commando with a
very effective diaphragm cluth. That would really be a neat drive system!

Cranky Frankie

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Frankie, take lots of pictures as you disassemble things. Good for
memories, reassembly, and for that article you might write!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

So you've got a neat old lathe and the world's only practical use
for a golf ball - what's the problem?
Sorry to hear about the back; just reading about it gave me memory
pains :-(

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Palmeri <flpalmeri@y...>
wrote:

--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@j...> wrote:

Sorry to hear about your back problems. I feel your pain; or

rather my

pain feels a lot like yours! That is an interestion treadle

assembly in

the picture. It is uncommon to see two treadles. I would hope

that the

motorised conversion was done well enough to keep; I have seen a

lot of

very poorly done motorisation conversions.

You'd love this: there is a GOLF BALL that is used to pivot the

driving

pulley into and out of the belt tension. Yeesh. But it seems to

work; I

mean, I turned it on and it ran and all, but I'm already imagining

how to

make it a little slicker.

Cranky Frankie

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

Well since you are probably propped up in bed now full of muscle
relaxants and pain killers this is the perfect time to redesign the
drive. There was a very neat clutch rework for the Myford published in
the mid 70's ME ('76?) that looked a lot like a traditional Brit
motorcycle single plate clutch with cork faces glued on and a pushrod for
disengagment through the countershaft pushing on a single bearing ball.
If you are interested I will see if I can find the exact date of
publication.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@...> wrote:

Sorry to hear about your back problems. I feel your pain; or rather my
pain feels a lot like yours! That is an interestion treadle assembly in
the picture. It is uncommon to see two treadles. I would hope that the
motorised conversion was done well enough to keep; I have seen a lot of
very poorly done motorisation conversions.

You'd love this: there is a GOLF BALL that is used to pivot the driving
pulley into and out of the belt tension. Yeesh. But it seems to work; I
mean, I turned it on and it ran and all, but I'm already imagining how to
make it a little slicker.

Cranky Frankie

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software