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--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@...> wrote:

Frank, it appears that you got yourself a classic old treadle lath for

your $200!

Oh my goodness. Now that you mention it, this makes sense, because it sits
on a stand that looks like and old sewing machine stand. That's probably
where the treadlese were before the guy coverted it to the washing machine
engine.

Just remember that it was designed for the 1/10th horsepower
that a person could deliver and proceed accordingly.

That's something, because the thing must weigh 200 - 300 pounds, and it's
all big and sturdy.

The accessories could be of considerable interest! If writing appeals to

consider an illustrated article in one of the hobby magazines!

Thanks Bill, it's getting interesting:)

Cranky Frankie

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I was unclear about the triangular inserts for the Everede boring
bar; they are like little tool bits, about 3/8 long with a triangular
cross section, 3/32 across the flats, with one point of the triangle
truncated slightly. Strange little guys, nothing like the typical
carbide triangular inserts. Everede has a site but I couldn't find
the inserts there; apparently, they began making these tool steel
inserts in the 1930's.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., George Kaplan <kgmk99@y...>
wrote:

the The Little Machine Shop for the inserts

GK
--- John <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which
happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32"
triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up
the included
insert and found that it produces a much better
finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if
so, where?

Carbide tip tools (regular tools and boring
bars)don't produce a good
finish for me. They also seem to develop tiny chips
on the cutting
point fairly quickly (which may be why the finish is
poor) and I've
also had larger chips a couple of times. I've read
that carbide
works best when taking heavy cuts and that light
cuts (which is my
normal use) don't work as well because the thin chip
applies force
close to the edge. I've also had poor results when
re-sharpening
carbide -- the edge seems more fragile afterwards
and rapidly
develops chips while turning mild steel; the finish
is so poor that I
try not to use carbide on aluminum.

Based on the above, I'm shifting to cobalt steel
bits but would be
interested to find out if there is some error I'm
making in the way I
use carbide tools or if others run into the same
problem using them
on minilathes?

John

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Frank, it appears that you got yourself a classic old treadle lath for
your $200! Just remember that it was designed for the 1/10th horsepower
that a person could deliver and proceed accordingly. The accessories
could be of considerable interest! If writing appeals to consider an
illustrated article in one of the hobby magazines!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Hi Frank;

The lathe you describe was produced not to far from where I grew up. Maybe as much as 100 years before I was born. It sounds like you have a very good example of this lathe even though it is not in original condition. Some of these lathes where originally threadeled powered, sound like you may have one of those.

It would be interesting to determine if this lathe can be restored. I would look closely at all those parts you have to see how complete the lathe is. If enough of it exists I would suggest that you turn this machine into a restoration project. If you spend sometime surfing the internet you should be able to find a couple of web sites devoted to Seneca Falls machines.

As far as the company it self goes I'm not sure if it is around any more. A couple of years ago they where really struggling. Apparently they never made the transition to CNC and was left stuck in the world of tracer lathes. I'm sure if there was a turn around at the company someone will pipe up, as that would be good news.

Thanks
Dave


Frank Palmeri wrote:

I was waiting for the next Homier tent sale, to finally buy the 7 x 12,
when I came across a deal on an antique lathe that I couldn't pass up.
It's an old Seneca Falls Mfg. Co. metal lathe, and it'll be my first
one. It appears to be a 12" X 24", and I'll bet it weighs the better side
of 300lbs. It only cost me $200 and comes with boxes and boxes of
accessories and tooling. It's really, really old, possibly from the 1800s.
It was not originally motorized, but the machinist who owned it rigged up
a
movable, 4 pulley drive system with a washing machine motor to drive it.
It appears to be in good shape, though it has had lots of use. It has a
finely made metal stand with thin legs, kind of like you'd see on an old
sewing machine. This will be my first lathe to try and learn on. Kind of
like learning to drive in a 1972 4 door Cadillac, I know, but I couldn't
pass up a deal like this. I know many guys have more than one lathe
anyway, so if this bad boy proves to be too intimidating I'll probably get
the Homier sometime down the road as well. For example, there doesn't
appear to be any scales on the handscrews, to let you know how much you
are advancing them.

Anyway, it's big, black and strong. Now I just have to figure out how to
get it home!

Cranky Frankie



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the The Little Machine Shop for the inserts

GK
--- John <moran03@...> wrote:

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which
happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32"
triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up
the included
insert and found that it produces a much better
finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if
so, where?

Carbide tip tools (regular tools and boring
bars)don't produce a good
finish for me. They also seem to develop tiny chips
on the cutting
point fairly quickly (which may be why the finish is
poor) and I've
also had larger chips a couple of times. I've read
that carbide
works best when taking heavy cuts and that light
cuts (which is my
normal use) don't work as well because the thin chip
applies force
close to the edge. I've also had poor results when
re-sharpening
carbide -- the edge seems more fragile afterwards
and rapidly
develops chips while turning mild steel; the finish
is so poor that I
try not to use carbide on aluminum.

Based on the above, I'm shifting to cobalt steel
bits but would be
interested to find out if there is some error I'm
making in the way I
use carbide tools or if others run into the same
problem using them
on minilathes?

John

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

Diamond honing after grinding seems to help on the surface finish.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

I recently bought a boring head on eBay which happened to include an
Everede boring bar. This bar uses replaceable 3/32" triangular
inserts which seem to be tool steel. I touched up the included
insert and found that it produces a much better finish than the
brazed carbide bars I've been using.

Are these little triangular inserts available and if so, where?

Carbide tip tools (regular tools and boring bars)don't produce a good
finish for me. They also seem to develop tiny chips on the cutting
point fairly quickly (which may be why the finish is poor) and I've
also had larger chips a couple of times. I've read that carbide
works best when taking heavy cuts and that light cuts (which is my
normal use) don't work as well because the thin chip applies force
close to the edge. I've also had poor results when re-sharpening
carbide -- the edge seems more fragile afterwards and rapidly
develops chips while turning mild steel; the finish is so poor that I
try not to use carbide on aluminum.

Based on the above, I'm shifting to cobalt steel bits but would be
interested to find out if there is some error I'm making in the way I
use carbide tools or if others run into the same problem using them
on minilathes?

John

"... If it does what you want it to do, it's the right machine.

There's always some future project that requires a larger lathe with more
sophisticated capabilities <g>"

Roy

**

The trouble is the future is always now! I got rid of the huge monster
because I never needed anything that big and the 7x12 was going to do
everything I needed now. Once it had gone, I needed the big one, (:o|/
especially for milling. So a new Mill is on the cards, I am just waiting
until I can get the conversation round so that it is my wife who suggests
it (:o)

Cheers,
captkenn
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
触&濒迟;触):辞)=触&驳迟;抖抖触..触.................
&#92; &#92;''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: don"t want to start trouble ...
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 04:29:05 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If it does what you want it to do, it's the right machine.
There's always some future project that requires a larger lathe with
more sophisticated capabilities <g>

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "boykin275" <jbbaird@s...>
wrote:

...but I have to ask ...

I just purchased a sherline lathe and rigged it for CNC. I am not

a

machinist but do have one small, simple part that must be made
repeatedly. Did I make a mistake? How does the sherline compare

to

the mini-lathes?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:

I use Delta Cad & have been very happy with it.

It seems there are at least a few of us who enjoy the ease of using
DeltaCad. I have been using version 5, the newest I think, for about
one year. I also have Autosketch and need to refer to the user guide
for help in almost everything I want to do. It is a nice drawing
program but unless one works with it on a daily basis, it is
complicated.

To get back on track though, my DeltaCad quit suddenly and locks up
the screen requiring the "three finger salute" to get back in
business. All else on the computer, including Autosketch worked as
always. My first thought was to reinstall the CD for DeltaCad
thinking it would overwrite the program already installed. No
improvement. After talking to myself and others for a few days I
uninstalled the DeltaCad Program and then reinstalled it and all is
fine.

If yours should quit someday maybe this will avoid some fretting.

Richard

boykin275 wrote:

...but I have to ask ...
I just purchased a sherline lathe and rigged it for CNC. I am not a machinist but do have one small, simple part that must be made repeatedly. Did I make a mistake? How does the sherline compare to the mini-lathes?

Why worry about it? You have already set a course and done the majority of the work/spent the money. If the part is within the capicity of your machine use it.

The 7x machnes are somewhat larger/heavier machines with threading capibility. They usually need some tuning by the owner to get the most out of them. Both machines have huge support groups and readly avaliable parts/accessorys (although sherlines are a bit expensive.) so that should not be an issue.
Regards
Bob

Frank Palmeri wrote:

noticed that you can get into a
Smithy for less than $1,000. Now I know $299 vs $1,000 is comparing apples
and oranges, but, please tell me, why would you NOT want a Smithy, at less
than a grand, if you have the bucks?

Cause those dual purpose machines are not very good mills, not very good lathes, and you have to tear down your setup for mill to do lathe and vice versa.

I looked at the smithy web site, I assume the model you are talking about is the 1220 on sale in a flyer or something since that is their cheapest model. Reading between the lines and looking at their poor quality photo it appears that the 1220 does not have half nuts. and cannot cut left hand threads. Are they embarissed about how the chuck is mounted? Cause they don't seem to say on their web site. Lowest spindle speed on the lathe is listed at 160 rpm which is to fast for a lathe with a 12" swing.

Would't it be fair to say that the build quality of the Smithy compared to
the Homier would be at least one level better?

Who knows? they are both made in china.

And, unless you're Norm

Abrams with a 40' x 60' heated, dedicated shop, wouldn't it be nice to
have a lathe and milling machine in one, small package?

If you are really in a small shop setup then the fact that the smithy weighs approx 400 lbs will count heavly against it. Alternatives in individual machines are movable by one person. Renting? think about moving that 400 lb machine. (by moveable I mean one person can pick it up and walk away with it.)

Plus Smithy throws

in lots of extras, a video, etc.

Yawn.
If you get one of these be sure and budget for the $275 tooling kit(only place I know to get a 4 jaw chuck that uses their secret mounting system.)

Supposedly Homier will be back in town in two weeks, and I'll probably
take the plunge at time, if they bring one of the damn things to the show.
But I could be persuaded to save my hard earned scratch for the Smithy if
it's "better."

There is a 3 in 1 group or 2 you yahoo you should look there if you want to hear something good about these machines. Try google/groups for endless debate on the subject in RCM.

Regards
Bob (who feels like he has been trolled)

I tried to buy a $299 Homier 7 X 12 lathe at the big tent sale in Glenns
Falls, NY yesterday. It was advertised in the big newspaper circular as
usual, however, when I got there they had none; they didn't bring any this
time. This is the second time I've had no luck in trying to buy this lathe
at a Homier event. The other time the place was such a mob scene I wasn't
able to make the purchase either.

When I got home last night I dug out my lathe file (I've been thinking
about getting one for a long time) and noticed that you can get into a
Smithy for less than $1,000. Now I know $299 vs $1,000 is comparing apples
and oranges, but, please tell me, why would you NOT want a Smithy, at less
than a grand, if you have the bucks?

Would't it be fair to say that the build quality of the Smithy compared to
the Homier would be at least one level better? And, unless you're Norm
Abrams with a 40' x 60' heated, dedicated shop, wouldn't it be nice to
have a lathe and milling machine in one, small package? Plus Smithy throws
in lots of extras, a video, etc.

Supposedly Homier will be back in town in two weeks, and I'll probably
take the plunge at time, if they bring one of the damn things to the show.
But I could be persuaded to save my hard earned scratch for the Smithy if
it's "better."

Opinions?

Cranky Frankie

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Thanx for the tip. I went to the cad site and d/l the program. It
looks like I will use it. Again thanx for the direction.
cwalklin1@...

...but I have to ask ...

I just purchased a sherline lathe and rigged it for CNC. I am not a
machinist but do have one small, simple part that must be made
repeatedly. Did I make a mistake? How does the sherline compare to
the mini-lathes?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

Sorry if this is a repost, never saw my first reply.
I've been very happy with Pro&#92;Desktop Express from PTC
<>. Under their pages for Pro&#92;Desktop, they've got a
'Learn & Trt' tab that has a link to download the express version. It
apparently doesn't have all the features of Pro&#92;Desktop, but it certainly
meets my needs. It requires registration to get a key, and they also
mentioned either to need to re-register or re-download the program every 6
months, which could be bad if they decide to stop offering it, since your
current version would stop working. But, overall, I have been very happy
with it.
Scott

I found the following message again in the Prints_and_Plans group.


Many Australian schools are using Pro Desktop software. It is a
quite good CAD program and is easy to learn. The site information
states:

Pro/DESKTOP Express
This is a 3D CAD package developed specifically for engineers and
designers who do not need the full functionality of Pro/ENGINEER.
The web page is


There are significant support sites for the software eg.


Don't know anything about the program. I looked at the site but haven't had
the time to download and try. Hope this helps.

I use Delta Cad & have been very happy with it.



Frank Hoose


--- cwalklin1 <cwalklin1@...> wrote:

Hi all;
I'm looking for an affordable cad program (shareware
freeware) is ok
if it has some bells and whistles. I need to draft
up some stuff and
post it here for you guys to have a look at. Mostly
little fixtures
and shop helpers. I have 35 years exp as tool and
die maker (retired
now) and would like to help if I can.

Charlie
cwalklin1@...



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Robert Streimikes <rjs@...> wrote:


cwalklin1 wrote:

Hi all;
I'm looking for an affordable cad program (shareware freeware)

Check this out (freeware)

Regards
Bob

Thanx Bob. I will take a look.

cwalklin1@...





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