开云体育

Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings


 

开云体育

Ryan,
We're on the same wave length !
I already checked the lead screw for longitudinal deformation and else as well as the half nuts plus the whole alignment. I can't say that it's perfect because there are no centering pins but I didn't find any hard spot nor anything else to be relevant.
All the gears are made of steel, a bit noisy. The clearance adjustment (paper sheet of different thicknesses method) between spurs doesn't visually improve anything but taking away the first gear eliminates the ghost thread. At the moment, it might be the influence of the lead screw, amplified or not by the gear train or a kind of resonance of the whole gear train. As mentioned yesterday, different ratios need to be checked in priority. In addition, to suppress any doubt about the lead screw, I also have to check its decoupling from the last gear, all the other gears remaining connected to the spindle. Not an easy troubleshooting but a greasy one !
It came into my mind that if I use the compound, the slide being locked, there's no ghost thread but same amount of roughness. Also to be checked again, plus with more accuracy. The nature of the cutting tools may also impact the roughness. Comparison between carbide and HSS cutters with the same metal & speed.

Before all that, an FMECA written procedure, addressing two entries roughness and ghost thread, is mandatory !

For the rest, it's more or less what I'm intending to do. But, since it's a no-return operation, everything needs to be clarified before and the possible causes identified or eliminated.

I'm not in a hurry and, in //, I'm on a Quorn construction project, so all this work will probably take weeks or even months. I saved all the messages, which I'll respond when the job is done.


Thanks, Have a nice day.


On 09.02.25 21:17, Ryan H via groups.io wrote:

Gotcha. If it was me, I'd start with two things. First would be pulling the headstock apart and addressing the bearing adjustment problem. The inner race on the outer bearing needs to be able to slide on the spindle to set the preload. I did mine the old fashioned way like you'd polish engine crankshaft journals. If you haven't done that it done by bolting the spindle down firmly, wrapping sand paper around the spindle, wrapping a long shoelace or the like around the paper a few times and pulling the ends of the laces to turn the paper. There are probably YouTube videos that show what I'm describing. It works better than just trying to hand sand as it keeps pretty even pressure all the way around the part. If you decide to do it use fine grit paper, like no courser than 800 to start, as yours is probably pretty close. I may even start with 1,000 as yours is probably within fractions of a thousandth if the bearing already goes on but doesn't slide. Go slow and check fit often. As we know It's easier to remove material than put it back. :-) ?You just want it slide, just. If you go too far then the spindle can move in the inner race and we don't want that. It's a time consuming process, lots of cleaning and testing for maybe only two or three rotations of the paper before cleaning and testing again but it's worth the time. You'll be able to set it perfectly.?
?
My second thing to check would be the lead screw and half nuts to see if there's a burr or anything causing irregular movement and adjust of the base, compound and cross slides. That may cause the ghost thread. You can check if it's from the compound or cross slides by locking them down tight with the gib adjustment screws and taking a test cut. I'm sure you know it's really a process of eliminating variables until you find which part is causing the problem and then addressing that part to eliminate the issue.

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