|
Hi all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would probably melt the belt if I left it), and a dust of belt rubber is coming off and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade. I'm just trying to get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with each other, I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok except this issue.?
Thanks,
Rob
|
First thing to do, is to go out, with belt in hand, and buy a ‘real’ belt.?
A Gates, A Dayco.....a good one. ?
The v-belts supplied with Chinese made machines, are garbage, in my experience.?
As far as the 1/2” spec, that’s fine.
Belts do get hot, caused by the friction within, from flexing around the pulleys, so don’t expect it to run completely cool.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 5, 2020, at 6:34 AM, Rob M. <robmuckley@...> wrote:
?Hi all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would probably melt the belt if I left it), and a
dust of belt rubber is coming off and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade. I'm just trying to get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with
each other, I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok except this issue.?
Thanks,
Rob
|
Hi Rob The fact its shedding rubber is not good and says alignment is probably out somewhere. You have lined up the pulleys heights but that's not all you need to line up. These saws have very flimsy motor mounts that twist easily, with motor?mounting bolts that have inadequate washers so the motor moves on the mounting plate, and also poor pivots, running on the threads of the pivot bolts, all of?which cause mis-alignment.? When you tension the belt with the belt guard on you won't see the motor twist out of alignment. While you sort this out, try running without the guard as you'll diagnose the problems much more quickly, then replace it later. Start by putting panel?washers under the nuts of the motor bolts with lock washers or Loctite. Re-align the pulley heights. Depending on the slop?in the pivots, you may have to shift the motor on the mounting plate to get the motor shaft parallel to the pulley shaft. This should get you running in?alignment.?? The pivots are a bit of a problem, as they thread sloppily into the pressed metal of the mounting plate.? The width of the mounting plate is ~3/16" smaller than the gap between the ears it pivots in.? You can't tighten the bolts or you'll jam?the pivoting action. Shim the distance between both sides of the mounting plate with washers leaving a bit of free play so it still pivots nicely, then Loctite the bolts into the mounting plate with the strongest Loctite you;ve?got ( (263 'Red' is best and you may have to use a heat gun on it to get it to set as the pressed threaded portion is not very long and quite loose).? It won't last forever, but by then you'll want to make a?better mounting plate and tensioning system. Belt tension is not particularly important, so long as it's?not slipping too much.? Squealing is often a sign that a belt is slipping (think altenator/aircon?drive belts in your car that squeal at startup),? but it? doesn't seem like?you're under-tensioning it. In fact some people run with the belt purposely slack so that when the blade jams (like when cutting aluminium) that the motor keeps running and doesn't burn out. (This not infrequent fault happens within?10sec if the motor stalls with the power?still on!??It's the most common way people burn out motors.) There is a formula for working out the belt tension from the belt size and the distance between the pulley centres.? It's given as 'pounds to deflect a given distance' and it's less than you'd think.? It's?like, 2lb to deflect 0.150", for a 1/2" wide (A, Ax or 4L) belt on a std 4x6.? What size belt does your machine have? (measure the width across the widest part of the tapered section - normally 1/2" or 3/8"), I think new machines have smaller belt/pulleys ('value engineering'!?). Rgds - jv?
On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 1:41 AM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
First thing to do, is to go out, with belt in hand, and buy a ‘real’ belt.?
A Gates, A Dayco.....a good one. ?
The v-belts supplied with Chinese made machines, are garbage, in my experience.?
As far as the 1/2” spec, that’s fine.
Belts do get hot, caused by the friction within, from flexing around the pulleys, so don’t expect it to run completely cool.?
Other Bill
?Hi all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would probably melt the belt if I left it), and a
dust of belt rubber is coming off and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade. I'm just trying to get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with
each other, I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok except this issue.?
Thanks,
Rob
|
Thank you for all of the tips, John. I appreciate it.
|
Rob,
?? You can probably use this attachment once you get the belt
situation straightened out. Good luck with that. I’ve had my saw since 2005 and
have been very happy with it.
Carl H
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Rob
M.
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 7:19 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension
?
Hi
all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive
belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with
thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would
probably melt the belt if I left it), and a dust of belt rubber is coming off
and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the
belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade I'm just trying to
get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with each other,
I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok
except this issue.
Thanks,
Rob
|
This is great, thank you Carl!
|
I have had good experience with this belt
D&D PowerDrive A20/4L220 V Belt, 1/2" x 22" OC, A Section, Rubber
for my HF 4x6.
-Bill (no interest in this company, just happy user)
|
I have ran a Fenner type belt (there are a couple of companies that make these, one red and the other green) on my 4x6 saw, table saw, band saws,Jointer, metal lathe, metal shaper, wood shaper, Tormach, and a couple of mill/driils for many years. They are smooth, quiet and repairable if they should break but no one ever has.
I wouldn't consider or use anything else. I use both 3/8's" and 1/2" belts and buy the stock in 4 or 5 foot lengths.
gary
On Friday, August 21, 2020, 07:44:35 AM CDT, William Kahn via groups.io <william_kahn@...> wrote:
I have had good experience with this belt
D&D PowerDrive A20/4L220 V Belt, 1/2" x 22" OC, A Section, Rubber
for my HF 4x6.
-Bill (no interest in this company, just happy user)
|
I ended up going with a Fenner link belt. Great improvement!
|
You can get link belts from Harbor Freight, love em would not know how to even size a v belt.
Ralph
I ended up going with a Fenner link belt. Great improvement!
|
Hi all I've tried the following 1/2" wide belt variations that fit - A section raw edge, AX 'cog' belts?and link belts like Fennerflex, even an OEM belt that almost broke apart it was so perished.? (I haven't tried a wrapped edge (4L) belt meant for outdoor power equipment which has the same x-section but the wrapping would make it harder to bend around small diameters). I can't honestly say that one was any better than the other. Can't?even say that the link belts were 'smoother', which?is the common claim.? I bought 3 new belts (A, AX and Link) with the express purpose of seeing if I could tell the difference - I couldn't, at least not between A and AX and certainly not that made enough difference to justify 4x greater cost for the Link-type.
I think this is because I re-engineered my motor mount and tensioner for solidity. Why people with a std set-up notice a positive difference when using this or that new belt, is probably due more to them tightening and realigning everything when installing the new belt (and why wouldn't you). When looking at how well a belt works you need to widen the scope to include the pulleys and mounting/tensioning as well:?? The 4x6 pulleys are not made to the belt manufacturers pulley dimension std.which has different?groove angles for different diameter ranges (the included angle gets narrower as the diameter decreases). The OEM pulleys are all 36deg, when the larger diameter ones should be 34 and the smallest 31deg.? The smallest diameter?pulley in the set (48mm) is actually below the minimum diameter given in the standard. That probably means the AX belt (with the 'cogged' inside looking like gear teeth) should work better as it's more easily able to wrap around the smaller pulley, but the belt manufacturers' std doesn't allow AX belts to run any smaller diameter than the solid A-section belt.? It didn't perform noticeably?better than the A-section either. The motor mount and tensioner system is very flimsy and prone to vibration, which excites vibration out of the panel steel stand.? What I have proven is that changing the motor mount and tensioner gave me the biggest reduction in vibration and noise of any modification I've made. Check my photo album for what I did, there is a sequence of 15 or so photos of a new mount, pivot bolts and tensioner, even stiffening up the old motor mount to work with the new tensioner. Sorry to be a fly in the ointment, but this is my experience - jv
You can get link belts from Harbor Freight, love em would not know how to even size a v belt.
Ralph
I ended up going with a Fenner link belt. Great improvement!
|
All good info here, thanks John.
|
I suspect that most of the time, the comparison is between a new link belt and a 70+ year old V-belt.? One should probably expect the new belt to be more flexible than the ancient one!? Regardless of what type the new one was. ? Robert Downs ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Vreede
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2020 20:23
To: [email protected] Group Moderators
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension? I've tried the following 1/2" wide belt variations that fit - A section raw edge, AX 'cog' belts?and link belts like Fennerflex, even an OEM belt that almost broke apart it was so perished.? (I haven't tried a wrapped edge (4L) belt meant for outdoor power equipment which has the same x-section but the wrapping would make it harder to bend around small diameters). I can't honestly say that one was any better than the other. Can't?even say that the link belts were 'smoother', which?is the common claim.? I bought 3 new belts (A, AX and Link) with the express purpose of seeing if I could tell the difference - I couldn't, at least not between A and AX and certainly not that made enough difference to justify 4x greater cost for the Link-type. I think this is because I re-engineered my motor mount and tensioner for solidity. Why people with a std set-up notice a positive difference when using this or that new belt, is probably due more to them tightening and realigning everything when installing the new belt (and why wouldn't you). When looking at how well a belt works you need to widen the scope to include the pulleys and mounting/tensioning as well:?? The 4x6 pulleys are not made to the belt manufacturers pulley dimension std.which has different?groove angles for different diameter ranges (the included angle gets narrower as the diameter decreases). The OEM pulleys are all 36deg, when the larger diameter ones should be 34 and the smallest 31deg.? The smallest diameter?pulley in the set (48mm) is actually below the minimum diameter given in the standard. That probably means the AX belt (with the 'cogged' inside looking like gear teeth) should work better as it's more easily able to wrap around the smaller pulley, but the belt manufacturers' std doesn't allow AX belts to run any smaller diameter than the solid A-section belt.? It didn't perform noticeably?better than the A-section either. The motor mount and tensioner system is very flimsy and prone to vibration, which excites vibration out of the panel steel stand.? What I have proven is that changing the motor mount and tensioner gave me the biggest reduction in vibration and noise of any modification I've made. Check my photo album for what I did, there is a sequence of 15 or so photos of a new mount, pivot bolts and tensioner, even stiffening up the old motor mount to work with the new tensioner. Sorry to be a fly in the ointment, but this is my experience - jv ? You can get link belts from Harbor Freight, love em would not know how to even size a v belt. ? I ended up going with a Fenner link belt. Great improvement!
|
It occurred to me why the differences in belt performance are not that noticeable.
The 4x6's pulleys are not made to standard so the belt wont be able to transmit as much power as its capable of, but a 4x6 is not using much power anyway.
When the belt bends around the small 48mm pulley it will fatten up on the inside of the bend since the belt cords are all on the outside.? It won't fit in the bottom of the 36deg vee (where it would have if the vee was only 31deg) so the belt will just ride a little higher up the vee? than it should, and the speed increase you should get, won't be as great.? The saw won't run quite as fast. but you wont even notice.? ?
Gary's post shows the range of machinery where A-section belts are used, the Tormach is rated at 1.5HP and jointers, table saws etc can be 3HP, where a 4x6 is only 1/2HP at best.? HF and others claim 1HP motors (High-school physics says Volts times Amps = Watts and there are 746W in a Horsepower, so if the motor draws 6.8A @ 110V = 748W - Hey that's 1HP!), but that is INPUT power not output, so at 30-40% efficiency the HF's motor is only a bit over 1/3HP at best.?
NEMA and IEC rate induction motors as 'HP output at a given rpm', i.e. 1/2HP @ 1425rpm.? When you load them up so the revs drop below 1425, they give correspondingly higher HP, so a 1/2HP motor might be giving more than 1HP just before it stalls. 4x6's are rarely loaded up so much, you have to be running 12lb bow weight on high speed to stall at the end of a cut.? And then its only transmitting ~1HP, when 1/2" A-section belts can transmit 5HP.??
When running near the limit of the belt's power transmission capacity, then Gates and Dayco belts win out over cheap OEM belts every time. Fennerflex belts are unparalleled if you have to dismantle the whole machine just to replace the belt (as I would have had to do recently on a friend wood lathe - Fennerflex saved the day),? or have lots of machines all running A-section belts, then you willingly pay the extra cost - jv??
|
If you have access to the actual original factory drawings of the 2, 3 or 4 step V-pulleys typically used on machine tools, you may find that the V-angle is smaller on the smallest diameter step than it is on the largest.? And that in the case of 3 or 4-step ones, the angle(s) on the in-between steps are in between.? This is to compensate for the ID being wider when the belt is bent around a smaller diameter.? Whether this is true of the Taiwan and/or Chinese made pulleys on the 4x6 band saws, I don’t know.? I’ve never looked at any of them that closely.? They should be but may or may not be.? I’ll skip commenting on link-belts versus V-belts. ? Robert Downs ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Vreede
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2020 15:34
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension? It occurred to me why the differences in belt performance are not that noticeable.
The 4x6's pulleys are not made to standard so the belt wont be able to transmit as much power as its capable of, but a 4x6 is not using much power anyway.
When the belt bends around the small 48mm pulley it will fatten up on the inside of the bend since the belt cords are all on the outside.? It won't fit in the bottom of the 36deg vee (where it would have if the vee was only 31deg) so the belt will just ride a little higher up the vee? than it should, and the speed increase you should get, won't be as great.? The saw won't run quite as fast. but you wont even notice.? ?
Gary's post shows the range of machinery where A-section belts are used, the Tormach is rated at 1.5HP and jointers, table saws etc can be 3HP, where a 4x6 is only 1/2HP at best.? HF and others claim 1HP motors (High-school physics says Volts times Amps = Watts and there are 746W in a Horsepower, so if the motor draws 6.8A @ 110V = 748W - Hey that's 1HP!), but that is INPUT power not output, so at 30-40% efficiency the HF's motor is only a bit over 1/3HP at best.?
NEMA and IEC rate induction motors as 'HP output at a given rpm', i.e 1/2HP @ 1425rpm.? When you load them up so the revs drop below 1425, they give correspondingly higher HP, so a 1/2HP motor might be giving more than 1HP just before it stalls. 4x6's are rarely loaded up so much, you have to be running 12lb bow weight on high speed to stall at the end of a cut? And then its only transmitting ~1HP, when 1/2" A-section belts can transmit 5HP.??
When running near the limit of the belt's power transmission capacity, then Gates and Dayco belts win out over cheap OEM belts every time. Fennerflex belts are unparalleled if you have to dismantle the whole machine just to replace the belt (as I would have had to do recently on a friend wood lathe - Fennerflex saved the day),? or have lots of machines all running A-section belts, then you willingly pay the extra cost - jv??
|
Interesting discussion.? My suggestion would be to use
a raw edge "cog" type belt.? "AX" section in
most listings.? These transmit more power for several reasons, one
being that the lower part of the belt doesn't bulge out as much when
wrapped to a small radius.
The original point of the "L" belts (light duty) was to work
better on small pulleys than the A belts of the day.? Today, for
most purposes, AX belts are a better solution.? (Perhaps an
exception is when the belt is used as a clutch).
Opinions seem to vary widely on link belts.? I would only use them
where changing a conventional belt is a big hassle.? Of for
temporary emergency use.
My own experience is that Taiwanese machines from the 80s came with
crappy belts, and often with pulleys not running true.? Nowadays
most belts seem to be made in Asia.? Many belts sold as
"A" seem to actually be 13 mm and raid high in
grooves.
JMHOa.
At 04:42 PM 8/22/2020 -0500, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If you have access to the actual
original factory drawings of the 2, 3 or 4 step V-pulleys typically used
on machine tools, you may find that the V-angle is smaller on the
smallest diameter step than it is on the largest.?? And that in the
case of 3 or 4-step ones, the angle(s) on the in-between steps are in
between.?? This is to compensate for the ID being wider when the
belt is bent around a smaller diameter.?? Whether this is true of
the Taiwan and/or Chinese made pulleys on the 4x6 band saws, I don?�?t
know.?? I?�?ve never looked at any of them that closely.?? They
should be but may or may not be.?? I?�?ll skip commenting on
link-belts versus V-belts.
?
Robert Downs
?
From: [email protected]
[
mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Vreede
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2020 15:34
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension
?
It occurred to me why the differences in belt performance are not that
noticeable.
The 4x6's pulleys are not made to standard so the belt wont be able to
transmit as much power as its capable of, but a 4x6 is not using much
power anyway.
When the belt bends around the small 48mm pulley it will fatten up on the
inside of the bend since the belt cords are all on the outside.? It
won't fit in the bottom of the 36deg vee (where it would have if the vee
was only 31deg) so the belt will just ride a little higher up the
vee? than it should, and the speed increase you should get, won't be
as great.? The saw won't run quite as fast. but you wont even
notice.??
Gary's post shows the range of machinery where A-section belts are used,
the Tormach is rated at 1.5HP and jointers, table saws etc can be 3HP,
where a 4x6 is only 1/2HP at best.? HF and others claim 1HP motors
(High-school physics says Volts times Amps = Watts and there are 746W in
a Horsepower, so if the motor draws 6.8A @ 110V = 748W - Hey that's
1HP!), but that is INPUT power not output, so at 30-40% efficiency the
HF's motor is only a bit over 1/3HP at best.
NEMA and IEC rate induction motors as 'HP output at a given rpm',
i.e 1/2HP @ 1425rpm.? When you load them up so the revs drop below
1425, they give correspondingly higher HP, so a 1/2HP motor might be
giving more than 1HP just before it stalls. 4x6's are rarely loaded up so
much, you have to be running 12lb bow weight on high speed to stall at
the end of a cut? And then its only transmitting ~1HP, when
1/2" A-section belts can transmit 5HP.?
When running near the limit of the belt's power transmission capacity,
then Gates and Dayco belts win out over cheap OEM belts every time.
Fennerflex belts are unparalleled if you have to dismantle the whole
machine just to replace the belt (as I would have had to do recently on a
friend wood lathe - Fennerflex saved the day),? or have lots of
machines all running A-section belts, then you willingly pay the extra
cost - jv??
|
I went to get an AX belt (cog looking one) for my bandsaw at our
local SAECOWilson (Bearings, transmission parts place in New
Zealand) the guys advised me to just get the standard A section
belt. They said for the additional price I wouldn't see any
difference on the 4x6bandsaw, he did explain why and was happy to
sell me whatever I wanted. I don't remember what the reasoning
was. I do enjoy going there as the guys are always very helpful,
open with their advice and normally save me a bunch of $ by coming
away with what I actually need rather than what I thought I
wanted.
I wanted the AX belt as I assumed it would be better on the
smaller diameter pulleys. Unfortunately it was over 8 months ago I
got the replacement belt and I don't remember the discussion,
other than I would have happily paid the extra for the AX belt if
I hadn't been convinced. The new standard belt I got was a lot
more flexible than the old stiff cracked belt I replaced.
I've also improved the rigidity of the motor plate and tension
adjustment, not as well as John Vreede has, however it is a big
improved over the original system.
I'm happy with the standard belt.
Thanks.
Steve
On 23/08/20 10:18 am, Alan Muller
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Interesting discussion.? My suggestion would be to
use
a raw edge "cog" type belt.? "AX" section in
most listings.? These transmit more power for several reasons,
one
being that the lower part of the belt doesn't bulge out as much
when
wrapped to a small radius.
The original point of the "L" belts (light duty) was to work
better on small pulleys than the A belts of the day.? Today, for
most purposes, AX belts are a better solution.? (Perhaps an
exception is when the belt is used as a clutch).
Opinions seem to vary widely on link belts.? I would only use
them
where changing a conventional belt is a big hassle.? Of for
temporary emergency use.
My own experience is that Taiwanese machines from the 80s came
with
crappy belts, and often with pulleys not running true.? Nowadays
most belts seem to be made in Asia.? Many belts sold as
"A" seem to actually be 13 mm and raid high in
grooves.
JMHOa.
At 04:42 PM 8/22/2020 -0500, you wrote:
If you have access
to the actual
original factory drawings of the 2, 3 or 4 step V-pulleys
typically used
on machine tools, you may find that the V-angle is smaller on
the
smallest diameter step than it is on the largest.?? And that
in the
case of 3 or 4-step ones, the angle(s) on the in-between steps
are in
between.?? This is to compensate for the ID being wider when
the
belt is bent around a smaller diameter.?? Whether this is true
of
the Taiwan and/or Chinese made pulleys on the 4x6 band saws, I
don?�?t
know.?? I?�?ve never looked at any of them that closely.??
They
should be but may or may not be.?? I?�?ll skip commenting on
link-belts versus V-belts.
?
Robert Downs
?
From: [email protected]
[
mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John
Vreede
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2020 15:34
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension
?
It occurred to me why the differences in belt performance are
not that
noticeable.
The 4x6's pulleys are not made to standard so the belt wont be
able to
transmit as much power as its capable of, but a 4x6 is not
using much
power anyway.
When the belt bends around the small 48mm pulley it will
fatten up on the
inside of the bend since the belt cords are all on the
outside.? It
won't fit in the bottom of the 36deg vee (where it would have
if the vee
was only 31deg) so the belt will just ride a little higher up
the
vee? than it should, and the speed increase you should get,
won't be
as great.? The saw won't run quite as fast. but you wont even
notice.??
Gary's post shows the range of machinery where A-section belts
are used,
the Tormach is rated at 1.5HP and jointers, table saws etc can
be 3HP,
where a 4x6 is only 1/2HP at best.? HF and others claim 1HP
motors
(High-school physics says Volts times Amps = Watts and there
are 746W in
a Horsepower, so if the motor draws 6.8A @ 110V = 748W - Hey
that's
1HP!), but that is INPUT power not output, so at 30-40%
efficiency the
HF's motor is only a bit over 1/3HP at best.
NEMA and IEC rate induction motors as 'HP output at a
given rpm',
i.e 1/2HP @ 1425rpm.? When you load them up so the revs drop
below
1425, they give correspondingly higher HP, so a 1/2HP motor
might be
giving more than 1HP just before it stalls. 4x6's are rarely
loaded up so
much, you have to be running 12lb bow weight on high speed to
stall at
the end of a cut? And then its only transmitting ~1HP, when
1/2" A-section belts can transmit 5HP.?
When running near the limit of the belt's power transmission
capacity,
then Gates and Dayco belts win out over cheap OEM belts every
time.
Fennerflex belts are unparalleled if you have to dismantle the
whole
machine just to replace the belt (as I would have had to do
recently on a
friend wood lathe - Fennerflex saved the day),? or have lots
of
machines all running A-section belts, then you willingly pay
the extra
cost - jv??
|
Check the gear box for the condition of the lubricant. Most new machines have very poor quality lubricant (may look good to the eye but may not have proper antiwear additives) that may also be contaminated. I suggest changing it out for a quality lubricant.
|
Good point.? Worm gears are high friction devices and
need proper lubrication.
At 09:32 AM 8/22/2020 -0700, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Check the gear box for the
condition of the lubricant. Most new machines have very poor quality
lubricant (may look good to the eye but may not have proper antiwear
additives) that may also be contaminated. I suggest changing it out for a
quality lubricant.
|
What do you suggest? Hypoid? 50ish et?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 22, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Anthony Nagy < ajxnagy@...> wrote: Check the gear box for the condition of the lubricant. Most new machines have very poor quality lubricant (may look good to the eye but may not have proper antiwear additives) that may also be contaminated. I suggest changing it out for a quality lubricant.
|
John Vreede
Chuck Peterson