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HF had the 2gal. cooling system on sale for $35. so I bought a
couple.
Still waiting delivery - Meantime is anyone using one ?
I've read a lot of posts asking about them but haven't run accross
anything about how good/bad they work.
I'm curious about pressure - adjustable ?
If there's no pressure adjustment on the system itself and I put a
valve 'in line' what are the chances of burning out the motor ?
What about a splash guard ? Neccessary/helpful ?
TIA, Chuck U&R

OK, if you check the posts you should see an article where I describe building and using a recirculating coolant system from some?household stuff. I built mine and have been using it from the second day of ownwership of my bandsaw. It works really well and probably cuts (no pun intended) cutting time about 50%. I assume that like mine yours will be using a centrifugal pump and if this is so putting a valve on the?discharge side of the pump to control the flow rate is a very good idea and will in no way hurt the pump. Actually?the load on the?pump is reduced with the discharge side blocked as less work is being done. I also changed to a Lenox Bi-metal blade.

Hope this helps some.

Cheers, Cletus 9Z4CLB

?

chuck_uandr wrote:

HF had the 2gal. cooling system on sale for $35. so I bought a
couple.
Still waiting delivery - Meantime is anyone using one ?
I've read a lot of posts asking about them but haven't run accross
anything about how good/bad they work.
I'm curious about pressure - adjustable ?
If there's no pressure adjustment on the system itself and I put a
valve 'in line' what are the chances of burning out the motor ?
What about a splash guard ? Neccessary/helpful ?
TIA, Chuck U&R




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Thanx, I saw your post and pics.
I needed a cooling system for my Smithy 3in1 and since they were on
sale I went ahead and bought one for the saw too.
I still have to buy/build pans for both machines.
The local welding shop wants $50. each which I think is too high so
I'm still looking around.
I swithched to bi-metal blades when I first got the saw - about
$10.ea from Enco and yes I agree it makes a big difference.
LUBRICANT ? - Right now I use 50/50 mix of plumbers pipe cutting oil
and kerosine in a spray bottle for cutting, drilling, threading,
milling and turning. Anybody see any reason why this wouldn't work
in the pumps ?

OK, if you check the posts you should see an article where I

describe building and using a recirculating coolant system from some
household stuff. I built mine and have been using it from the second
day of ownwership of my bandsaw. It works really well and probably
cuts (no pun intended) cutting time about 50%. I assume that like
mine yours will be using a centrifugal pump and if this is so
putting a valve on the discharge side of the pump to control the
flow rate is a very good idea and will in no way hurt the pump.
Actually the load on the pump is reduced with the discharge side
blocked as less work is being done. I also changed to a Lenox Bi-
metal blade.

Hope this helps some.

Cheers, Cletus 9Z4CLB





chuck_uandr <upandrunning@m...> wrote: HF had the 2gal. cooling

system on sale for $35. so I bought a

couple.
Still waiting delivery - Meantime is anyone using one ?
I've read a lot of posts asking about them but haven't run accross
anything about how good/bad they work.
I'm curious about pressure - adjustable ?
If there's no pressure adjustment on the system itself and I put a
valve 'in line' what are the chances of burning out the motor ?
What about a splash guard ? Neccessary/helpful ?
TIA, Chuck U&R



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From the desk of:
Cletus L. Berkeley, MIEEE

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I still have to buy/build pans for both machines.
The local welding shop wants $50. each which I think is too high so
I'm still looking around.

I am in the process of building a new stand and adding a coolant
system to my saw right now also. I just finished making a 12inch X
26inch pan for mine for about $6. I copied the idea from George
Carlson's plans in the mini-lathe website. I bought a piece of 14
gauge sheet metal and notched each corner. I used a metal cutting
blade in my circular saw to cut a shallow groove around the perimeter
of the sheet one inch in from the edge. That made it a little easier
to bend along the groove.I then used a pair of vise grips that have
the wide jaws [ about 3inches wide]to bend the edges of the sheet up
until they came together. I put a small weld at each corner to seal
it up. If you don't have a welder there may be another way to seal
the corners. I don't know if soldering would hold or JB weld might.
Lots cheaper than the welding shop price. I still have to install a
drain in the pan. Good luck, Rich W.

That's probably what I'll end up having to do.
I just hate having to spend 2 hours when anybody with a box brake
could knock 'em out in 20 minutes.
I'm pretty close to completeing a new stand for the Smith so I guess
it's time to start bendin.

BTW I just got the HF coolant systems in the mail.
Aside from the cheap tubing they're pretty nice.
We'll see how the motor holds up.
The spigot has a magnetic base and a valve to control the flow.
I test fired one with water and it will run from a slow drip to a
nice steady flow but not real powerful like a parts washer.





--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rswooley49" <rsw49@B...> wrote:

I still have to buy/build pans for both machines.
The local welding shop wants $50. each which I think is too high

so

I'm still looking around.

I am in the process of building a new stand and adding a coolant
system to my saw right now also. I just finished making a 12inch X
26inch pan for mine for about $6. I copied the idea from George
Carlson's plans in the mini-lathe website. I bought a piece of 14
gauge sheet metal and notched each corner. I used a metal cutting
blade in my circular saw to cut a shallow groove around the

perimeter

of the sheet one inch in from the edge. That made it a little

easier

to bend along the groove.I then used a pair of vise grips that

have

the wide jaws [ about 3inches wide]to bend the edges of the sheet

up

until they came together. I put a small weld at each corner to

seal

it up. If you don't have a welder there may be another way to seal
the corners. I don't know if soldering would hold or JB weld

might.

Lots cheaper than the welding shop price. I still have to install

a

drain in the pan. Good luck, Rich W.

I just hate having to spend 2 hours when anybody with a box brake
could knock 'em out in 20 minutes.

I agree. A sheetmetal brake would make short order of this project
and do a neater job.

BTW I just got the HF coolant systems in the mail.
Aside from the cheap tubing they're pretty nice.

I just ordered one of these systems yesterday and it is good to hear
it appears OK. I was wondering if users of coolant systems on these
saws had any concerns about the wiring running to the on/off switch
getting any contact with the liquid. I realize that the flow is
pretty localized and the slow speed of the blade should not throw it
around but since the wiring is in that area the thought crossed my
mind. Thanks for any responses. Rich W.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rswooley49" <rsw49@B...> wrote:
I was wondering if users of coolant systems on these

saws had any concerns about the wiring running to the on/off

switch

getting any contact with the liquid. I realize that the flow is
pretty localized and the slow speed of the blade should not throw

it

around but since the wiring is in that area the thought crossed my
mind. Thanks for any responses. Rich W.

If anything I think that the blade will 'push' the coolant away from
the switch.

I have been using a recirculating coolant system everyday for the last 7-months without any problems at all. The coolant flood is very localized and any dripping is usually very small and on the right side of the machine as the blade movement pushes it there.

Cheers, Cletus

---

Do you Yahoo!?

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rswooley49" <rsw49@B...> wrote:

I am in the process of building a new stand and adding a coolant
system to my saw right now also. I just finished making a 12inch X
26inch pan for mine for about $6. I copied the idea from George
Carlson's plans in the mini-lathe website.

I saw his plans too. The local welding shop sold me 16ga sheet that ran about $2 for the bandsaw stand and $6 for the mill/drill. I was going to attempt the 20 degree notches like he did - but that didn't work too well. I just clamped the sheet to the 2" sq tube stand I had welded up, and used a couple pieces of angle iron for a brake. Results were horrible. Then I found out a farm down the road had a big brake (and I'm learning all these farmers in the neighborhood are usually VERY happy to help out the guy in the neighborhood who just got a mill. :) Hope I'm not going too far in debt on favors here.) I had to notch my corners square because of the brake, but it bent up real purty. Fixing to go get some 16ga scrap to close em back up now.

I considered piecing together a coolant system, but the HF one you guys are talking about is cheaper than almost any pump I've seen except the aquarium air pumps - and this doesn't look like I'd have enough vertical lift to make good use of an air lift system. I might cut the tube and add a manifold in later - but it looks like a good starting place.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "chuck_uandr" <upandrunning@...> wrote:

HF had the 2gal. cooling system on sale for $35. so I bought a
couple.

Could you please post an item number for this?

I've tried all kinds of search terms at HF, but no joy.

Thanks!

- John Herrmann
Corvallis, OR
hman_mit@...
guessed@...

Forgive the stupid question- I just saw the PDF by Cletus Berkeley.

I was wondering if anyone had some closeup photos of the hookup between the pump and the nozzle/nozzle clamp. Looks like a very worthwhile and straightforward project.

Nelson

I have own both saw with cooling and no cooling at the same time
I have found that saw blade life is almost the same.
But just slowing down the speed would increases the life 2 or 3 times per ton cut.
Using no coolant also save on clearing the parts and the floor.

Dave