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Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue.
Thanks. Steve |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMy Grizzly saw (G9742) sits on the wheels, (simple plastic critters) and has two rubber feet on the handle end. ?
? I¡¯ve never had any problem with it moving around. I bought it some 15 years ago, and have used it more than any tool I own. No wheel problems. It¡¯s not an issue. I maneuver it in & out of the shop a lot, as I can¡¯t cut up full length (20-footers) in my shop. It¡¯s quite handy as designed for doing that. If I built a stand for one, I would let it sit on the wheels, just like what I have, with no worries. ? I did build a burn table for my Victor pantograph, that works the same way, and sits on the wheels. When I first built it, I set it up to lift the tires off the ground when parked. I changed that, as it was awkward¡.and heavy, to maneuver. It was easier to maneuver when I modified it to set on the (2) wheels. It weighs about 150 pounds or better, and no flat spots on the tires in 10 plus years, and I used nothing fancy, just solid rubber on steel, with bearings, from the hardware store. They were simply the kind for lawnmowers. ? Bill ? ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2018 7:27 PM To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor? ? ? On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. ? I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. ? Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue.
? Thanks. Steve
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My saw (a Federal) also had a sheet metal stand that had been altered, along with two tilt up wheels.? I hated the stand because it was so low, so I got one of those wheeled carts from HF (not the cheapest one), installed the top shelf upside down, and mounted the saw to it.? I made two cross pieces out of 2" square tubing to stiffen the top of the cart and allow the insertion of a chip tray, and moved the wheels out as far as possible because the cart was a bit top heavy. I was worried that the wheels would make the saw unstable, but it's never been a problem.? I do store tooling in the cart as well, so it actually takes some effort to move.? (having a one car garage EVERYTHING is on wheels!)? Even with all the weight, the wheels have never developed flat spots.? Having the saw at working height is very nice!? I don't think I added a photo of it to the group- I can do so if you like. -Dave From: "steve@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 7:27 PM Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue. Anyone with either option have comments about this? Thanks. Steve
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Please post some photos.\, I hope to fix mine this fall. ? Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR Political Correctness is a Political Disease. From: "Dave Seiter d.seiter@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: "4x6bandsaw@..." <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 10:16 PM Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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My saw (a Federal) also had a sheet metal stand that had been altered, along with two tilt up wheels.? I hated the stand because it was so low, so I got one of those wheeled carts from HF (not the cheapest one), installed the top shelf upside down, and mounted the saw to it.? I made two cross pieces out of 2" square tubing to stiffen the top of the cart and allow the insertion of a chip tray, and moved the wheels out as far as possible because the cart was a bit top heavy. I was worried that the wheels would make the saw unstable, but it's never been a problem.? I do store tooling in the cart as well, so it actually takes some effort to move.? (having a one car garage EVERYTHING is on wheels!)? Even with all the weight, the wheels have never developed flat spots.? Having the saw at working height is very nice!? I don't think I added a photo of it to the group- I can do so if you like. -Dave From: "steve@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 7:27 PM Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue. Anyone with either option have comments about this? Thanks. Steve
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¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIf I were doing it, I would have the wheels just clear of the floor, for two reasons.? First, leaving the weight of the saw on the wheels will eventually result in a flat spot on each wheel.? Second, leaving that end of the saw supported by wheels will result in a less stable setup when using the saw.? Generally, most of the weight of the saw is near the back end so near the wheels.? That means that most of the weight of the saw is on the wheels, so it will not be as stable by a good bit.? Leaning against or bumping into the saw will probably cause it to move. ? Robert Downs ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 21:27 To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor? ? On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. ? I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. ? Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue.
? Thanks. Steve |
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I found my old folder and added some new photos.? (it's: Dave's 4x6 Packard)? My memory must be going- I've been thinking it was labelled as a "Federal", but apparently it was a "Packard Precision"; it was barely legible when I got it, and now it can only bee seen when a flashlight is shown on it at a very low angle from one direction.?? It's interesting in that the right hand work clamp has two positions, and when moved all the way to the right (and the small plate for cutting in the vertical position is removed), I can cut objects up to ~7- 7/8" wide.? It's come in handy a few times. -Dave From: "Leon Robinson leon-robinson@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: "4x6bandsaw@..." <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 8:36 PM Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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Please post some photos.\, I hope to fix mine this fall. ? Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR Political Correctness is a Political Disease. From: "Dave Seiter d.seiter@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: "4x6bandsaw@..." <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 10:16 PM Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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My saw (a Federal) also had a sheet metal stand that had been altered, along with two tilt up wheels.? I hated the stand because it was so low, so I got one of those wheeled carts from HF (not the cheapest one), installed the top shelf upside down, and mounted the saw to it.? I made two cross pieces out of 2" square tubing to stiffen the top of the cart and allow the insertion of a chip tray, and moved the wheels out as far as possible because the cart was a bit top heavy. I was worried that the wheels would make the saw unstable, but it's never been a problem.? I do store tooling in the cart as well, so it actually takes some effort to move.? (having a one car garage EVERYTHING is on wheels!)? Even with all the weight, the wheels have never developed flat spots.? Having the saw at working height is very nice!? I don't think I added a photo of it to the group- I can do so if you like. -Dave From: "steve@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 7:27 PM Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue. Anyone with either option have comments about this? Thanks. Steve
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I would agree that the saw is tail heavy (depending on how you look at it!), but the advantage of a cart (HF or homebrew) is that the extra size and weight of stored items makes the saw much more stable and tipping is not an issue.? I built mine over four years ago, and the wheels have not developed flat spots, even with at least 200lbs of weight riding on them. There used to be a lot more heavy items on it than there are in the photos- I moved them because the cart was actually hard to navigate in tight spaces. -Dave From: "'Robert Downs' wa5cab@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 8:49 PM Subject: RE: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor?
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If I were doing it, I would have the wheels just clear of the floor, for two reasons.? First, leaving the weight of the saw on the wheels will eventually result in a flat spot on each wheel.? Second, leaving that end of the saw supported by wheels will result in a less stable setup when using the saw.? Generally, most of the weight of the saw is near the back end so near the wheels.? That means that most of the weight of the saw is on the wheels, so it will not be as stable by a good bit.? Leaning against or bumping into the saw will probably cause it to move. ? Robert Downs ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...] Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 21:27 To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor? ? On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. ? I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. ? Seems it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue. Anyone with either option have comments about this? ? Thanks. Steve |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWell, mine is still on the original stand.? And hasn¡¯t moved but once or twice in 37 years.? When I had to pull it out to cut something that was just too long for where it normally sits.? So I guess that our time frame ?over which flat spots might have developed on the wheels differs by about an order of magnitude.? :-) ? Robert Downs ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 23:41 To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Saw stand wheels, on floor or off the floor? ? I would agree that the saw is tail heavy (depending on how you look at it!), but the advantage of a cart (HF or homebrew) is that the extra size and weight of stored items makes the saw much more stable and tipping is not an issue.? I built mine over four years ago, and the wheels have not developed flat spots, even with at least 200lbs of weight riding on them. There used to be a lot more heavy items on it than there are in the photos- I moved them because the cart was actually hard to navigate in tight spaces. ? -Dave ? From: "'Robert Downs' wa5cab@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> ? ? If I were doing it, I would have the wheels just clear of the floor, for two reasons.? First, leaving the weight of the saw on the wheels will eventually result in a flat spot on each wheel.? Second, leaving that end of the saw supported by wheels will result in a less stable setup when using the saw.? Generally, most of the weight of the saw is near the back end so near the wheels.? That means that most of the weight of the saw is on the wheels, so it will not be as stable by a good bit.? Leaning against or bumping into the saw will probably cause it to move. ? Robert Downs ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...] ? On my bandsaw, the current stand built by previous owner is worse than the original sheet metal stand as it distorts the frame of the saw. My new stand will have two 100mm (4") rubber wheels from an old lawn mower on the rear two legs. ? I was going to fit the wheels so they are just off the ground and lifting the front has the wheels down for moving the saw. However, I'm wondering if there is any point to having the wheels off the ground and does it make any difference compared to having the saw sitting on the wheels all the time. ? Seem s it would be easier to put the wheels on an axle so the frame is sitting on the wheels rather than the legs. Only con I've thought of so far is the weight causing flat spots on the wheels, which I'm not sure if that is going to be much of an issue.
? Thanks. Steve ? |
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Thank you for all your replies and posting photos, very helpful and reinforced my thoughts on just mounting direct to the wheels. The saw will get moved round a bit so I doubt flat spots will occur and really not a big deal if they do. I'll post a photo once completed. Mine will only have three legs, similar to this one as the floor in my workshop is uneven. I figure I don't need to have the rear wheels/legs set back quite as far as the one in the photo though. Thanks again for your help and have a lovely day. Steve |
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I'll post a photo once completed. Mine will only have three legs, similar to this one??as the floor in my workshop is uneven.? I figure I don't need to have the rear wheels/legs set back quite as far as the one in the photo though.
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Ralph Hulslander
Well here is my . Works great! Ralph
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Hi Guys,
I¡¯ve had my saw for about 15 years. I put a 2 wheel home built set of wheels on it at that time. They worked ok, a pain to move about in my current shop. So a couple of years back I upgraded to a 4 wheel set. I still have the folded steel legs just added a 50 x 50mm angle frame under it, with a plywood base, you can never have enough storage. The frame extends a couple of inches past the legs under the motor to add stability when used vertical. The wheels all pivot, the pair under the vise lock. It¡¯s now a pleasure to pull the saw out & use. That then started a bunch of other mods that had been in the get round to it basket, which have made the saw more functional. If anybody is interested check my album, Kerrins saw modification. Cheers Kerrin Sent from The DadPad2 |
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"You might want to
rethink how far back to put the rear legs/wheels. When the saw is lifted
to the vertical position, it is located quite far back and there is a
lot of weight out there. I had to redo mine because they weren¡¯t far
back enough and the saw was very unsteady. FWIW. Clem"
Thank you for sharing, really useful to know Clem. How far back behind the motor or rear base casting are your legs on the floor? On my current stand, the legs are 750mm (29") high and 100mm (4") back from the rear of the main base of the saw, which makes the legs about in line with the back of the motor when the saw is horizontal. I've used the saw in the vertical position and it seemed OK, however I was looking at having the legs positioned at 150mm (6") behind the base on the new stand. The one in the photo I linked to appears to be 200mm (8") or more, which seems to be a long way back compared to any other stand design I've seen. This also brings up the question of how wide the legs should be, current thought is 450mm (18") which is slightly wider than the current stand, but the stand will only have three legs (one front, two at rear). Thanks again for sharing your experiences, so much better build on shared knowledge. Steve |
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David Frantz
If I was to make a stand for my saw I¡¯d make it large enough to support a large drip pan that could catch run offs in the vertical position. If you go this route the wheels should end up well behind their current position. To be honest the original frame and wheel set already leaves a lot to be desired.
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Thanks David. I'll consider how I can incorporate a drip pan, I'm planning on using a fog system rather than a flood coolant system so a large collection area isn't as important. I've only read what the original stand was like, my current stand from the previous owner was obviously built for something else and modified for the saw. Basically a large piece of 3/16" or 1/4" plate with four legs on it, the plate flexes and has a bow in it which tends to twist the casting of the saw. My uneven shop floor doesn't help, but I doubt changing it from four to three legs would help as much as a better designed stand. Thanks again for your input. Steve ---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <websterindustro@...> wrote : If I was to make a stand for my saw I¡¯d make it large enough to support a large drip pan that could catch run offs in the vertical position. If you go this route the wheels should end up well behind their current position. To be honest the original frame and wheel set already leaves a lot to be desired. |
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Sorry I'm late to this discussion.
The Files section of this site has a doc I wrote on changing motors (Replacing 4x6 bandsaw motors v3.pdf).? At the back of the doc is a section addressing stability issues from putting on heavier motors with?photos of the setup.? Basically using steel strap bolted to the sheet metal legs.? The wheels are spaced wider and are further back, with the weight taken by the wheels. Though not sold as resistant to flat-spotting like Guy Lautard's one, they've never developed any flats.? Although its cheap, the saw is heavier to move (due to wheels further back) and awkward (by comparison with cart mounted ones like Dave Sieter's). I wouldn't do it that way again. I've got a 2-drawer filing cabinet, that I'm going to castor-mount on an angle iron frame.? That will give me a flat surface to mount a tray under the whole saw to catch coolant and swarf. Will be a bit wider and higher than std, but much more stable and have storage for blades and fixtures underneath and be easy to move - jv |
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John, great document thank you for pointing that out. I don't have the original stand, would you mind measuring have far back from the rear of the casting of the saw base your wheels are and how far apart they are now please? Also great tip on using the travel scales to measure the bow weight, I'll be doing that as soon as I complete the new stand. Unfortunately I don't think a cart version stand will work for me. My floor slopes to the center of the workshop do a drain, so any tools that need to stay flat either have to be mounted in one place, or have adjustable legs or three legs if they need to be moved round. So far I find I have to move the saw round one area of the workshop so going to try three legs. I will have a sliding handle that pulls out from the front to make it easier to lift and move, have done this with my compressor and works well. Funny to see the NZD at the end of the "Replacing 4x6 bandsaw motors v3.pdf" document, I'm in Tauranga:-). Thanks again. Steve ---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <vreededesign@...> wrote : Sorry I'm late to this discussion. The Files section of this site has a doc I wrote on changing motors (Replacing 4x6 bandsaw motors v3.pdf).? At the back of the doc is a section addressing stability issues from putting on heavier motors with?photos of the setup.? Basically using steel strap bolted to the sheet metal legs.? The wheels are spaced wider and are further back, with the weight taken by the wheels. Though not sold as resistant to flat-spotting like Guy Lautard's one, they've never developed any flats.? Although its cheap, the saw is heavier to move (due to wheels further back) and awkward (by comparison with cart mounted ones like Dave Sieter's). I wouldn't do it that way again. I've got a 2-drawer filing cabinet, that I'm going to castor-mount on an angle iron frame.? That will give me a flat surface to mount a tray under the whole saw to catch coolant and swarf. Will be a bit wider and higher than std, but much more stable and have storage for blades and fixtures underneath and be easy to move - jv |
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Lots of good information in this thread.
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On motors and wiring, I continue to be surprised that nobody seems to be advising the use of motor overload protection ("motor starters") with these saws.? Given the ease with which a saw of this sort can jam, and the temptation to go off and do something else while the saw is working, overload protection seems (to me) an obvious need.? Either the NEMA type, using selected "heaters" or the IEC bimetallic type will work.? NEMA motor starters have gotten very expensive new but are easily scrounged, at least around here (US).? Typically heaters are selected from tables based on the motor current or horsepower, but you don't have to use the full capacity of the motor.? There is no reason not to use a lower rated heater or setting to cause an "early" trip to protect the blade or whatever. Safety note:? Many motors have internal automatic resetting thermal protection (fan motors, etc).? It's unsafe to use this sort of motor, as is, on tools as it may restart without any warning if you forget to turn the control switch off after an overload trip.? No reason not to use the motor, but the thermal protector should be bypassed or replaced with a manual reset type (the sort with the red button).? Or of course, IMO, use an external motor starter. am At 09:30 AM 10/9/2018 +0000, you wrote: ? |